Finally broke a P7 :(

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PracticeFreedom

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I usually carry a P7M8, so when the PSP trade-ins came out last month, I jumped in for 3 (2 "A"s and 1 "B")
They all appeared to be in the same condition, but I guess there is a difference....Both "A" grade ones, passed their 500rnd test fire with no problems (yes, I test all my guns) but not the "B" grade one.

On the 250-270 rnd mark, I noticed that squeezing the grip wasn't cocking the pistol. ***?? took the slide off and noticed that a part (sear-bar) was bent. Took the grips off, saw that in fact, it snapped in 2 (see pics) This is the 1st time I've ever broken anything on an HK pistol. Checked with Numrich, this part goes for $66 + shipping :mad: --should have just bought all in "A" condition and not tried to save a buck.

Note--on the 3rd pic (showing both halves of the snapped sear bar above the gun/frame) I accidentally positioned the left-half upside-down for the photo.
 

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That is interesting. I had been wondering what the weak point of the cocking mechanism was since I tend to dry fire a LOT more than I shoot. Being that's the only way to cock it, it gets worked a lot.
 
That is interesting. I had been wondering what the weak point of the cocking mechanism was since I tend to dry fire a LOT more than I shoot. Being that's the only way to cock it, it gets worked a lot.
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Yeah, the weird thing is that the breaking point wasn't at a right angle area. It was 1mm or so from a "fold" in the part (part appears to be a stamping,) but these folds/bends exist on both sides of the attachment point and neither is that dreaded 90 degree angle usually responsible for these things. Nor was the part corroded...can't get clear pics of the break, but both halves are "shiny" metal in the spot they seperated and the part as a whole is corrosion free. Not sure why this area failed. This P7 appears to have been fired ALOT, so if this part was made defective, I'd assume it would have failed long ago....

After the new Sear-Bar comes, I'll do a comparison.
 
In many stamped parts, the bends are actually stronger due to work hardening and you see failures adjacent, depending on type of metal of course.
 
Don't mean to be off topic here but...

A few years ago when surplus Hertenberger +P+ was all over, a shooting buddy of mine claimed the P7 was the only pistol he felt ok shooting +P+ in. Looking at the disassembly, I can't see anything that looks that much stronger than a normal type auto. Are these guns especially capable of handling powerful ammo or is it just regular gun shop BS?
 
Are these guns especially capable of handling powerful ammo
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Opinions probably vary on this but one thing they have going for them is the fixed barrel/straight feed so that there is little or no feed ramp where the brass would be unsupported in a regular autoloader. They have a pretty substantial feel to them, I think a lot is due to the low bore axis and the weight being concentrated in the grip area, but all in all a pretty stout little gun IMO.
 
Don't mean to be off topic here but...

A few years ago when surplus Hertenberger +P+ was all over, a shooting buddy of mine claimed the P7 was the only pistol he felt ok shooting +P+ in. Looking at the disassembly, I can't see anything that looks that much stronger than a normal type auto. Are these guns especially capable of handling powerful ammo or is it just regular gun shop BS?
Click to expand...


Probably, the gas-delayed system is sort of self adjusting...the more powerful/gas pressure, the more powerful the gas delay/back pressure. P7s tend to have issues with weak ammo, not +p stuff.


You bought a used pistol, what's the big deal?
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It's not a big deal, just that buying one in better condition would have saved me time + $$$.
 
I wouldn't feel too bad about getting a B.

From what I understand, the A, B, and C gradings were based on the holster wear only. I had about 15 examples of each grade . . . some of the C grades don't even seem to have been fired, but they had a lot of holster wear (no markings on the squeeze cocker, super clean pistons, etc.)

I know they didn't have a warranty, but before you buy the part call H&K. They might send you what you need.
 
but before you buy the part call H&K
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Too late....I ordered the part shortly after starting this thread. Part came today, and I dropped it in. Typical "3 hands required" installation that takes 10 minutes the 1st time, 10 seconds once you figure it out. Gun seems to function fine... cocks, uncocks, and drops the striker/fires when it's supposed to. Off to the range today (or tommorow if it rains) to test it out.
 
This got me to thinking what if you made a new lever to go in there out of some hi strength 17-4 and beefed up the areas around those angles. I think it would help the trigger feel a lot. I think a lot of the 'sponginess' in the trigger comes from these little levers flexing in that area as well as being a potential weak point. If I made a few of these up and sold them are there legal issues with HK or ATF? Just a thought. (I always remember my buddy who was going to put ball bearings in the clutch linkage in an old car because the regular bushings wore out after about 40 years. I asked him why not just put new bushings in or if another 40 years wasn't good enough for him.)
 
This got me to thinking what if you made a new lever to go in there out of some hi strength 17-4 and beefed up the areas around those angles. I think it would help the trigger feel a lot. I think a lot of the 'sponginess' in the trigger comes from these little levers flexing in that area as well as being a potential weak point. If I made a few of these up and sold them are there legal issues with HK or ATF? Just a thought. (I always remember my buddy who was going to put ball bearings in the clutch linkage in an old car because the regular bushings wore out after about 40 years. I asked him why not just put new bushings in or if another 40 years wasn't good enough for him.)
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I'm pretty sure the spongy creep on these old PSP triggers comes from worn trigger to sear to sear bar geometry not those 2 bends in the sear-bar itself. Those bends exist to allow the sear bar to attach to the drag lever, yet remain ~ in the same plane. The part isn't a spring and shouldn't bend/flex unless something is very wrong (as in my case.)

That said, I'd love to see some better internals (on most any gun) and highly doubt there are legal issues the ATF would care about (unless you make frames or full-auto components) Afterall, there are dozens of seperate companies all making aftermarket internal components for Rem 700, 870, 10/22, SAA, AR-15, 1911, Glocks, etc, etc that don't get sued by the parent company/ATF
 
Yes, and the market interest would probably be there. P7 people generally aren't afraid to spend money. If you decide to make these parts, please post here.

BTW, first broken P7 I've ever heard of. I bought my first in 1985 :) and my latest about 30 days ago.
 
Where did you order the sear bar from? I'm looking to store some parts for my P7M8.

TIA
 
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