finally drank (more of) the blue kool-aid

[jmorris]

Dillon just came out with a new commercial case prep machine.

Any information or a link to information on it?

 

[DRAINSMITH]

for timing, I just bumped "what clever little things" go to post #1334.
Mr. Morris go to https//www.dillonprecision.com/shot2018.html

 

[jmorris]

Looks like the old RL 1050 bottom.

I just remove the powder drop and don’t add bullets or primers to make a regular reloader into a “case prep” machine.



That way when I have it do the load pass, I know every case will run through the machine, because it already has.

Their trimmer on the size/decap and trim tool head is by far the fastest way to prep rifle brass, this side of Camdex equipment.

 

[DRAINSMITH]

Now Mr. Morris just dumb your self waaaayyy down and pretend you are someone else. That is who Dillon it is making it for.

 

[Reeferman]

There’s more than one possible scenario for priming problems on the LnL. And different primer brands can be effected differently. Which primer brand I was using was Hornady CS first question. Timing is critical and it can change with a shellplate/caliber change. For some the timing changes while they’re in the middle of reloading (don’t understand that one). The milling job influences priming in different ways. All sub plates aren’t milled the same. Breaking the edge where the primer punch comes up through the first subplate I had stopped my hang ups on that one. My replacement subplate wasn’t milled near as deep and therefore had no edge needing the use of my dremmel. I sold the press before I finished troubleshooting the replacement subplate. It was intermittent and totally random. Some others have pointed out the need to polish the shuttle. Others complain of powder kernels causing their problems and regularly blow out the shuttle slot.

Enough on line reading, a little experience and you have to accept the LnL flaws of priming. Too many deny their sacred (what ever color machine) is as pure as the driven snow and is sinless. Yea, the creators gift to the world. Others point out, “mine works, therefore if yours doesn’t it’s your fault.” Or, “I keep a can of compressed air next to mine and just blow it out from time to time, apply my fix and you’re golden.” A better fanboy service would be to identify the possible problem, how to identify them, and what solution to apply to specific problem you have.

Some presses (any brand or model) are delivered to your doorstep and have no problems. Some do. Enough of my two cents.

Ok.

 

[joed]

Enough on line reading, a little experience and you have to accept the LnL flaws of priming. Too many deny their sacred (what ever color machine) is as pure as the driven snow and is sinless. Yea, the creators gift to the world. Others point out, “mine works, therefore if yours doesn’t it’s your fault.” Or, “I keep a can of compressed air next to mine and just blow it out from time to time, apply my fix and you’re golden.” A better fanboy service would be to identify the possible problem, how to identify them, and what solution to apply to specific problem you have.

Some presses (any brand or model) are delivered to your doorstep and have no problems. Some do. Enough of my two cents.

I learned pretty quickly on my first progressive that dirt from the old primers causes a lot of problems regardless of which brand the press is. I always take the shell plate off and primer system apart and clean them between 1k and 2k of rounds as preventative maintenance. It just seems to make the next session trouble free.

I think every brand of press has its quirks, you just have to identify what they are and a way to work around them.

 

[joed]

Looks like the old RL 1050 bottom.

That's exactly what I thought too. It looked exactly like my old 1050.

 

[TheDomFather]

There’s more than one possible scenario for priming problems on the LnL. And different primer brands can be effected differently. Which primer brand I was using was Hornady CS first question. Timing is critical and it can change with a shellplate/caliber change. For some the timing changes while they’re in the middle of reloading (don’t understand that one). The milling job influences priming in different ways. All sub plates aren’t milled the same. Breaking the edge where the primer punch comes up through the first subplate I had stopped my hang ups on that one. My replacement subplate wasn’t milled near as deep and therefore had no edge needing the use of my dremmel. I sold the press before I finished troubleshooting the replacement subplate. It was intermittent and totally random. Some others have pointed out the need to polish the shuttle. Others complain of powder kernels causing their problems and regularly blow out the shuttle slot.

Enough on line reading, a little experience and you have to accept the LnL flaws of priming. Too many deny their sacred (what ever color machine) is as pure as the driven snow and is sinless. Yea, the creators gift to the world. Others point out, “mine works, therefore if yours doesn’t it’s your fault.” Or, “I keep a can of compressed air next to mine and just blow it out from time to time, apply my fix and you’re golden.” A better fanboy service would be to identify the possible problem, how to identify them, and what solution to apply to specific problem you have.

Some presses (any brand or model) are delivered to your doorstep and have no problems. Some do. Enough of my two cents.

Fully agree with you and I have come to the conclusion there are just too many flaws in the LNL priming system therefore it sucks and not me. I just prime off press, when I get the time I will pack it up and sell it and replace it with a Dillon 650.

 

[loose noose]

Hmmm, never had any problems with my Green Machine, and the Customer service is next to none, BTW I've had my machine for over 30 years and it is auto indexing, and have had just about 2-3 up dates over that time. Granted it won't do the larger rifle cases but who cares, my Green "Rock Chucker" single stage will take care of those also. Incidentally that was purchased back in 1972. BTW rifle cases need added attention IMHO any way for pin point accuracy. Again JMHO.

 

[jmorris]

Hmmm, never had any problems with my Green Machine, and the Customer service is next to none,..

I have always been treated right by RCBS CS, maybe intended to post 2nd to none?

 

[DRAINSMITH]

I last timed my four Ammo-Plants on 23 May 2015. I have not missed 1 primer in all that time. Don't time your press close, don't time it good enough, but time it perfectly and you won't have any problems.

Well, perfection doesn't mean squat if you have your head up your ass. I just swaged 2,000 .223. Set the press up to run a batch. And on the second pull of the handle, I smashed a primer and I broke the Lock N Load AP bracket. So my run of no missed primers on my 4 Ammo-plants ends at 2 years 8 months and 27 days. Swaging drops a lot of crud and It will jam the slide. I rechecked my timing, still perfect. I guess that is what I get for bragging I didn't count on the old head up the ass thing.

 

[Nature Boy]

Red cool-aid, blue cool-aid, doesn't matter. None of them are good enough to save us from ourselves sometimes.

 

[LiveLife]

Holy Moses Browning ... Once you get in the deep end of reloading, it's almost impossible to go back.

Heck, I even tried powder reduction once ... Now I have more than twice the powders I used to have ...

 

[Toprudder]

I learned pretty quickly on my first progressive that dirt from the old primers causes a lot of problems regardless of which brand the press is. I always take the shell plate off and primer system apart and clean them between 1k and 2k of rounds as preventative maintenance. It just seems to make the next session trouble free.

I think every brand of press has its quirks, you just have to identify what they are and a way to work around them.

I agree about the primer residue.

I started wet tumbling, and did the requisite decapping beforehand, and quickly discovered that the primer residue (and any other junk from range pickup brass) would gum up the ram on my Lee Challenger press. I did a little investigation and found that the LCT drops the spent primers down the middle of the ram, so I bought that to replace the Challenger. I have probably decapped 30k brass in the LCT, and have only torn it down once for cleaning, and it didn't really need it then. In addition, my Dillon 550 stays clean and needs far less maintenance than it did when I was decapping on that press. With the ram staying clean, and no spent primer residue gumming up the primer bar, my 550 has been pretty much trouble free.

 

[jmorris]

I used to use canned air to blow off presses, now I have a dental air compressor that’s very quite, that I use to blow off presses. Keeps them clean and only takes a couple seconds.

 

[DRAINSMITH]

I normally clean my press every time I change shell plates but when I removed the swage plate it was clean. I didn't even think about crap being pushed to the primer slide. I had disabled it when running the swage.
Mr. Morris, I like my dental air compressor too. I have mine on a foot switch.

 

[Nature Boy]

*note to self: look into dental air compressor*