Fired my first 44 magnum reloads

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dr.bear

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I was a little hesitant, but I finally shot some of my first reloads. I've been reloading 45acp for awhile and am so use to using 4.0g of clays. Now filling up 44mag brass with 19-20g of 2400 seems like a lot of powder, relatively.

I made 2 batches:
- once fired walmart 44mag brass (winchester), 19.0g 2400, OAL 1.610" and a "strong" roll crimp and win WLP primer and 240g JSP nosler bulk.
- same as above except 19.5g 2400.

The recoil in the 19.0g seems very weak compared to the walmart stuff. I also notice a lot of unburnt powder on the bench below the shooting area and in my face. Side and muzzle flash is crazy big. I think it's kinda cool in a way as long as the gun stays in one piece. Accuracy at 7 yards rested about 1.5" 6 shots.

At 19.5g, recoil is slightly stronger. Less unburnt powder is seen although still present. Accuracy tightened up to about 1" at 7 yards.

I might try 20.0g (don't think I want to go any higher than this) next time. A question I have is whether accuracy increases or decreases with changes in powder amount, because it seems like accuracy increased when I went from 19.0g to 19.5g powder. I also want to know what they pack in those walmart white box 44mags? They recoil pretty hard (manageable) compared to my reloads. Maybe H110 with mag primers will be similar to the walmart stuff?

BTW, I was shooting a 629 full lug with 6.5" barrel.

Thanks in advance.
 
Yes using the H110 or 296 will have as much recoil as factory loads using the same weight bullet. Remember with the above mentioned powders loading down 3% is all you are allowed unlike 2400.

Working up loads for accuracy changing primers can have quite and effect also. Of course varying the amount of powder a few tenths of a grain will also. I don't know why you're shooting at 7 yards when that gun is best used at longer ranges in hunting or competition like silhouette imo.
You should get at least 2" groups at 25 yards with a little load development. That group size is from a rest, at least for my eyes these days.
 
Dr Bear:
The previous poster has given you some sound advice and I would like to offer you some additional thoughts. Please remember that the highest velocity will usually not be your most accurate load. I would work within the loading limits you have listed and shoot for groups starting at 25 yds and when comfortable, move back to 50 yds. That's where you'll find your most accurate loads. An extra 50 or 100 fps makes no difference when deer or bear hunting. Experience from an old Model 29 hunter. :)
 
I load and shoot a ruger super blackhawk 7.5 barrel I agree with the advice above. I shoot what is good for me and my gun the heaver the load the harder on me and my gun that said . That pice of papper , deer or hog or any other criter dosent know if that bullet is running 1500 rpm or 1200 rpm. I look for accurcy and enjoyment. I have loaded 20grn of 2400 for a 240 JHP and a JSP with good results. 200 JHP 22grn 2400 is what i have found to work for me. for a light plinking load 6.6grn of w231 with a 240grn SWC. using mixed brass and cci primers. Im curntly working up a load for new winchester M94 44 mag.(love my 44s)
 
I don't know why you're shooting at 7 yards when that gun is best used at longer ranges in hunting or competition like silhouette imo.

Quite honestly, I'm not as accurate as a lot of shooters here. I'll try going further (15y and 25y) when I get a bag rest.

Thanks for everyones advice. I'm heading to the indoor range today to try out the 20.0g 2400 loads and report back tonight.
 
Well at least you're shooting groups. I don't know how many people I've seen shoot at 21 feet that can't even keep all of their shots on paper.

Shooting a handgun is about 3 times as difficult to do as a rifle. Things to keep in mind: 1.) Every shot you want to hold the gun with equal pressure consistently every shot. 2.) Myself I turn my left and right hands toward each other and at the same time push my right hand forward and my left toward the rear. With just light to moderate pressure in these directions it helps stabilize those wandering sights. You must hold the gun exactly the same way with the same pressures every shot. During recoil if you lighten your grip or give the gun a death grip this will ruin accuracy.
3.) Trigger control. Only squeeze while the sights are perfectly aligned then hold there and squeeze more as the sights line up again. The gun should go off when you aren't expecting it to. Do NOT anticipate the gun going off or you'll ruin accuracy.

Dry firing is an excellent way to practice btw. I still do it and I started shooting targets with pistols 37 years ago. I hope you don't have vision problems like those of us above 40 do. Hope this helps you.
 
Yes using the H110 or 296 will have as much recoil as factory loads using the same weight bullet.
So will 2400!

According to the book I have in front of me: 4" barrel:
20.5 - 2400 - 240 JHP = 1,154 FPS @ 37,700 CUP.

24.5 H-110 - 240 JHP = 1,233 FPS @ 38,500 CUP.

The H-110 load will kick harder & make more noise due to 4.0 grains more powder ejecta, and 79 FPS more velocity.

I doubt you could tell the differance in subjective recoil between the two loads though.

rc
 
I've settled on 2400 for my 44 mag loads and started in the same 19g area as the OP with jacketed. My results in my rifle (Marlin 1894) @ 50 yards:

19g - Much stringing
19.5g - Loose vertical group
20g - 1.75" round groups
20.5 - see picture for this years hunting load sight in target. Three to walk the scope in and three for group.

attachment.php


According to the three manuals I checked max is either 20.5, 21 or 21.5. I quit where I did because I've used and chronographed the same Win ammo the OP mentions using and my load clocked out +20fps. Factory velocities with good accuracy made sense to me. Took a deer with it this year.

The flexibility of 2400 is why I stick with it over the H110/W296 loads. Plus, I can used it for 45/70 cast loads in the 1300-1400 fps range.
 
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