First AR build and I'm spending

[1894]

So, I've had a few ARs over the years but never built one from the bottom up, and am without one now. I decided to buy once and cry once. Many of you will think I'm insane, but I don't care. I bought the lower and plan on building it out myself. Since I don't have a vice handy, I'm letting the GS build my upper. Here's what I've done so far:

Bought:
Lower: Mega Billet

Ordered:
Upper: Mega Billet
Barrel: ESS 16" chrome lined 1/7 mid length
BCG: Bravo Company Chrome Lined
Charging Handle: Bravo Company Gunfighter
Gas Block: Troy Low Profile
Gas Tube: Voodoo
Hand Guard: Daniel Defense 15" slim
Muzzle Device: PWS comp

Plans include:
Stock: Daniel Defense
Buffer Tube: Daniel Defense
Buffer Spring: JP Silent Captured Spring
Trigger: Geissele SSA
Sights: Troy HK Style fixed
LPK: TBD I'll take your advice here too.

Just realized I need an ejection port cover and forward assist. What am I missing and where did I go wrong?

Thanks for your help as always.

1894

 

[adcoch1]

Nothing wrong in this list, but a few suggestions. Palmetto state armory had a deal on the geissele SSA triggers and a lpk for about what the trigger normally costs, so there would be your lpk. If you don't intend to put an optical sight on the rifle you may want to think about a front sight mounted to the barrel and not the handguard if you care about precision accuracy. I have had them both ways and the barrel mounted sights are more consistently accurate as the barrel heats up. Just a thought. Show us pics when you get it built, sounds like a sweet rifle.

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[1894]

adcoch1, Eventually, she'll get an Acog. Preferably one with an RMR on top. Due to life issues, it's been a couple years since I've shot a rifle. I want to get my groove back first - hence the fixed irons. We'll see what life has to offer in the mean time.

 

[NWcityguy2]

What is your logic behind the JP Silent Capture spring? I mean, it's your money, but it is a $130+ solution to a problem that is at worst, a minor annoyance. I run a Tubbs Flatwire spring in two of my ARs. It removes virtually all of the "sprong" noise when firing, cost $25 and is compatible with the buffer already supplied in the build kit. Even the competition guys who use JP rifles don't even use the silent capture springs. They are always running the red buffer with a JP rifle spring.

I'm also going to go against the grain and say skip the ACOG. Unless you plan on banging the rifle around a lot, or have an actual need to shoot at night, it isn't worth the money. From what I've seen, and I live next to Ft. Bliss and shoot competitions at the Ft. Bliss Rod and Gun, the people who shoot ACOGs do significantly worse at hitting small targets than those who use optics. Some people try to do too much with a fixed power optics, coming up with crazy zeros for them, such as 30/300 zeros, and don't even know where there bullets are between those two points.

In Iraq, ACOGs are great. They stand up to abuse, are useful at night, and are good at doing to area type shooting that soldiers do under stressful situations (IE in the area of a person, but not at any specific part of them). Here in the states though, virtually nobody shoots at night where the distance are far enough away to need 4x, everyone is super careful to not beat up on their investment, and you are left with a 4x scope which doesn't really do anything well and generally hinders you at close shooting. Then when you mount something on top of that already high sight, you've lost your cheek weld. For the money an ACOG costs, it should enable the shooter instead of limiting them.

 

[expat_alaska]

Well, I am interested to see how this turns out for you.

It all sounds good to me, but then I am 64 and my first build was a stripped Bushmaster (back when Bushmaster was Quality Parts Company/Wyndham ME) lower and all Bushmaster parts in 1992 before the infamous Clinton AWB. It had a 20" fluted HBAR 1-in-9 twist, A2 stock, A2 handguards, A2 iron sights, an aftermarket stowaway pistol grip for small parts, a Redi-Mag, and a JFS 3-point sling. I did order all of the upper parts separately and the headspace gauges to get it right.

As a novice, I went through (wasted) fitting 2 triggers and one hammer to get the pull/release right, and that was without spending beaucoup money on custom triggers then. These days, almost everything is a drop-in miracle.

The knowledge I gained from doing it the hard way I will never forget, but that was 22 years ago, and this is now with your concerns.

BTW, my son has it now and it still shoots 1/2 MOA at 100 yards on a rest. His friend gloated about the AK he had until he shot that AR and immediately wanted to trade rifles. The trade never happened. LOL.

I also did another AR from a stripped lower and parts but it was a 14" M4 barrel carbine with a welded AK-74 muzzle brake and a tele-stock. When I shot it at the range most folks thought it was a .308 because of the noise. It was accurate, the recoil was almost .22 LR-like other than the buffer movement, but not as accurate as the 20". Fun gun to shoot and very light in the hands, but I sold it to a friend who needed it more than I did.

Good luck on your project, sir. Keep us posted as to how it comes out.

Jim

 

[1894]

NWcityguy2,

Regarding the SP Silent Capture Spring: the internet told me it was the best. No I did not search here first. I thank you for the advice and will try the Tubbs flatire. If it works for me, I think I should pick up the tab when we meet considering the $$ you'll have saved me.

Regarding the acog: So, the idea is that I don't care what the rifle costs. Not that I know what I'm doing. When I walked into the shop I asked for a Noveske or Krieger barrel. The guy tells me to try ESS because they're a better shot than I am. I'm ok with that. Optics are at least a year away. Honestly, I have no idea how that part will end. I have to figure out how good I am and what my struggles are with irons first. Once I spend three or four acogs worth of ammo, I'll have a better idea of what I want.

Thanks,

1894

 

[NWcityguy2]

Regarding the SP Silent Capture Spring: the internet told me it was the best. No I did not search here first. I thank you for the advice and will try the Tubbs flatire. If it works for me, I think I should pick up the tab when we meet considering the $$ you'll have saved me.

That's the problem with trying to find the best, it begs the question; The best at what? I'd recommend getting a traditional buffer/spring setup first. They do everything that the gun requires them to. There really isn't any improving upon that unless you start using non-standard components elsewhere.

The same with spending $$$ on an expensive match barrel. The reality of the AR world is that there are lots of companies out there that sell quality products to people who don't need them or benefit from them. It is my opinion that buying a top flight barrel is a waste if you don't plan on reloading, shooting exclusively from a rest or the prone, and pairing it with a high power optic. A standard chrome lined barrel is a much more appropriate choice for iron sights or a low power optic. I don't have any experience with an ESS barrel, but they do have a mixed reputation in the AK world. If you haven't already bought the barrel, look into a Green Mountain barrel. They make lots of barrels, have a good reputation across the board and probably cost about the same.

http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/gm-m8-16-mid-length-gas-system-5-56-nato/

 

[1894]

Adcoch1,

I feel weird thanking you for forcing me to eat Ramen for the next couple weeks, but I took PSA up on their deal. Thanks for the heads up!

1894

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[BSA1]

Why just 16" length barrel?

Given the quality (and expense) of the parts you are using along with the match trigger it sounds like your gun is more suitable for target shooting and hunting. In both cases a 18" or 20" would be better choices.

What bullet weight are you using? Heavier is generally better for target shooting and hunting.

Have you thought about a Wilson Arms barrel?

 

[HJ857]

Probably too late, but if you're going with a Geissele trigger, then I'd recommend the adjustable models over any other. I have the National Match version with a JP reduced hammer spring and it's incredible.

Just to come clean, I don't keep up with their various models, so I don't know if the SSA is an adjustable.

It's a minor point but I have both the Gunfighter charging handle and a Raptor handle, and the Raptor beats the Gunfighter easily, though at a higher cost. However, I don't see any reason why the Gunfighter is an improvement over a basic handle with a 5 dollar extended release.

Have you used those HK sights? Are you sure you'll like them?

Finally, add a Magpul or a Troy Battery Assist Device to your list. Cheap and incredibly better if you have to clear a malfunction or even just basic locking the bolt back. I like the Troy better than the Magpul. I'd add this device to any AR, regardless of it primary use.

Speaking of which, you didn't state what your primary use for this rifle is, it sounds like it's a fighting rifle and if so, then your barrel choice is good. If you're thinking long range accuracy, then a longer barrel will definitely be better.

 

[1894]

BSA1,

I want an, "everything," rifle. Yeah, right. Thinking green tips. We'll see what the range says.

HJ857,

Trigger is not adjustable. I'm a bit concerned about the light weight.

I absolutely love the HK sights. I've shot them on a couple platforms and they work for me. Don't know why. Stuff lines up, holes get made.

The charging handle was in stock.

BAD Lever: Yeah, I want it. But, I also want to re-learn fundamentals.

Primary use: It's a rifle. It needs to make holes in stuff where and when I tell it to. Truthfully, God willing, it will only see the range or whatever classes I subject it to. (This is the edit: Less than 500 yards. I keep forgetting there are people who can shoot these things at 1000 yards - also, if you're one of those freaks, will you please forward me your optometrist's info?)

Thanks,

1894

 

[WestKentucky]

BAD lever sucks. Lots of people love them, those people don't have sausage fingers and shoot in the cold weather. It's totally not necessary and honestly I have never missed having it. I put a lot of the tactical gotta have stuff on my first rifle and traded it off at the height of the panic. The aggravating finger grabber was quick but I still prefer to smack the lever or pull the handle.

 

[NWcityguy2]

Honestly, if you want to take a step closer to having a good long range (for 223) gun, look at a medium profile 18" barrel. It's not that it will blow away a 16" with added velocity, but it will shoot more accurately and heat up slower.

Here are a couple examples:

http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/gm-m18-18-223-wylde-chamber/
http://ar15performance.com/inc/sdetail/38007/32764 (currently out of stock)