First attempt to rub oil into wood. No kidding here.

[DeanDallas]

There is so much marketing garbage associated with all the "oils". There is no such thing as teak oil finish.
Teak wood has its own natural wood oils that turns a weathered grey in outdoor use.

First, is the question of what do you mean by "tung oil"? Do you mean real, 100%, pure tung oil or one of the many faux "tung oil finishes" most of which contain no real tung oil at all. Tung Oil Finishes (ala Minwax Tung Oil Finish) are oil/varnish mixtures that contain an oil, a varnish and mineral spirits. You can make your own by mixing equal parts of the three components.

Teak oil is an oil/varnish mixture that generally contains a little pure tung oil added to linseed oil. The oil mixture is then mixed with varnish,mineral spirits and painters naphtha.

Finally, there is "Danish Oil" which is again a mixture of linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits. See a pattern here? In other words, Tung Oil Finish, Teak Oil and Danish Oil are virtually identical. The differences are based on marketing, not performance.

Of course, there is also real, 100% tung oil and boiled linseed oil. Both are what are known as drying oils. The only difference is that tung oil is slightly less amber and slightly more water resistant. Neither are really protective or water resistant. Both will support mildew and mold.

You are trying to say this is all better than a real natural wood oil finish?

Oil finishes, whether pure oils, or the oil/varnishes are not very protective from a water resistance or abrasion resistance point of view. The oils are an in-the-wood finish that will leave the look and feel to the wood. None are long lasting and require frequent renewal to maintain their properties and looks. Oil/varnishes are excellent for furniture items that do not get heavy abuse but I would not recommend any fake oil as a finish for something on a gun stock.

 

[9 fingers]

Why not just use Tru Oil, easy to use and works well and a $6 bottle will do multiple guns.
9 fingers

 

[DeanDallas]

It is the same, a mix of turps, old tung oil instead of linseed oil. Paint thiner & oil varnish. A old type of tru-oil was used on wood instruments since time Begin, tru-oil has been around since music was invented. Birch-wood Casey did not come up with the idea, not at all.
Every one using mfg methods to get a half of a finish pine tar will give you in one treatment. You are using real wood oils on wood, oils that gives long life & fight disease in trees & preservative of the wood.
Look at it this way plant oils last a year, tree oils last hundreds of years.

 

[zb338]

Do they still make GB Linspeed oil? That was great stuff for
doing stocks. It seemed to be linseed oil with some sort of
drier. You almost couldn't screw up, and when it was done
you could rub a little on if you got a scrape.

Zeke
I just looked it up. Midway sells GB lin-speed for
around $8.00 a jar. Good stuff.

 

[DeanDallas]

Yes, you get just what you pay for nothing more.

 

[aarondhgraham]

This is a true story,,,

This is a true story,,,
Cross my heart and hope to die.

My Dad made driftwood furniture for a living,,,
He never put any finish on his pieces,,,
He left that up to the customer.

My cousin married a beautiful blonde woman,,,
She fell in love with a coffee table,,,
Dad gave it to her as a gift.

She asked how to make it a little bit brighter,,,
Dad told her to use a little tung oil on it.

I was there and witnessed this,,,
It's the honest to God truth.

She looked Dad right in the eye and said,,,
"You mean I have to lick it?"

Aarond

.

 

[Grmlin]

Aarond, Oh that was good, glad I missed the computer when the coffee came out.

 

[bangswitch]

There is no such thing as teak oil finish.
Teak wood has its own natural wood oils that turns a weathered grey in outdoor use.

I know all about teak and how it turns gray. When I was a kid, my Dad and I used to go off-shore fishing with my uncle, who had a sport fisher that had teak decking and trim. It was my job to take a steel wool pad and scrub the teak trim (railings and door framing, mostly) until it was its nice, fresh-cut honey color. I got to the point I hated fishing, knowing I'd have to scrub that damn boat every time we went out.

Teak oil is an oil/varnish mixture that generally contains a little pure tung oil added to linseed oil. The oil mixture is then mixed with varnish,mineral spirits and painters naphtha.

Finally, there is "Danish Oil" which is again a mixture of linseed oil, varnish and mineral spirits. See a pattern here? In other words, Tung Oil Finish, Teak Oil and Danish Oil are virtually identical. The differences are based on marketing, not performance.

Of course, there is also real, 100% tung oil and boiled linseed oil. Both are what are known as drying oils. The only difference is that tung oil is slightly less amber and slightly more water resistant. Neither are really protective or water resistant. Both will support mildew and mold.

You are trying to say this is all better than a real natural wood oil finish?

Oil finishes, whether pure oils, or the oil/varnishes are not very protective from a water resistance or abrasion resistance point of view. The oils are an in-the-wood finish that will leave the look and feel to the wood. None are long lasting and require frequent renewal to maintain their properties and looks. Oil/varnishes are excellent for furniture items that do not get heavy abuse but I would not recommend any fake oil as a finish for something on a gun stock.

I never claimed that what I use or prefer gives any permanence. They will bring out the beauty in a nice wood grain, and since they dry within the wood grain, they don't tend to chip and peel over time like a surface finish will. I fully expect to have to reapply more oil over time to maintain the lustre. I don't try to use a waterproof finish as an excuse to leave a fine firearm where moisture can stain the stock or rust the metalwork, and since I don't hunt, it's not difficult to kep my guns dry. I hate factory gun finishes that are slick as laminate and look like clear plastic, and actually prefer a bit of the grain to remain unfilled. I usually apply a good coat or two of paste wax and buff it after the oil 'finish' dries.

What do you prefer as a finish for gun stocks?

 

[DeanDallas]

I have gave up on the fake commercial finishes, you might say I have gone over to the dark side.
The high grade pine tar used in the finish will in time hold it own against the best out there.
Because once users really find out how much better it is in the long term, it will sell itself.
It is usable on most types of stock woods, it can enhance walnut like crazy.
It gives it longer life & can bring back old walnut wood into something great.
The main thing about pine tar is it is a base, a base that gives you the best to work from for a final finish. Or to just go as is.

Pine tar itself needs someone to design a workable print to use it on different woods A real how to & different workable instructions for different applications on different woods.
It is an old product with no plans for the future, old uses that no longer applies to this time & place. But it is unbeatable for wood uses, in care & finishes.
The Big box stores will not sell it because people have been brainwashed into only using what they have been told too.

 

[CLP]

I don't know what's so difficult to understand. Most guys know instinctively how to rub oil onto wood.

 

[DeanDallas]

I don't know what's so difficult to understand. Most guys know instinctively how to rub oil onto wood.

Pine tar is a wood oil but not like any other oil treatment.
You can get many different results on doing it different ways, one way of applying pine tar is not always the best way.
The difference between mixes and the best one.
Do you want a light color or dark, what is the best way to do birch?
What results are you expecting on Coach wood & the best application?
Do you know how to get an even color on hardwoods?
You can get a even overall color without heat but heat is good.
I see the ski wax mix being used on bare wood like a stain, its really not a stain when you put bees wax on first. And its nothing special its been around for centuries