Which type(s) of oil for original looks on WW2 guns?

[Ignition Override]

It's been a while since I read opinions about which types of furniture oils preserve original looks of Enfields (BLO vs. raw linseed), '55 Garands etc. 59 years old but never did any wood preparation etc.

But as for oils to help the wood, how about original grips on WW2 handguns such as the Mauser Hsc and more modern types of wood as grip replacements on the Sauer 38H, or for (Brazilian "Leopard wood") Pau Ferro grips on a Sig 232?

Does raw linseed work for all of these Without adding an unnatural gloss? Went to a woodworking store along with Loew's,
and the only linseed at both places is Boiled linseed oil, known to add an extra gloss and trap moisture inside the wood.

The British did not use BLO in WW2 on the LEs, but whether the Germans used it on guns, I have no idea. When I finally meet with a buddy who has done a number of his, he will demonstrate light 'takedowns' etc.

 

[hq]

Period correct way to treat stocks is to let them soak in linseed oil for weeks, even months. It doesn't add gloss, just leaves a faint satin finish, which is very durable and moisture resistant, but - unfortunately - gathers grime and stains easily.

A much quicker alternative is raw tung oil; it needs to be rubbed in or it'll leave a tough, waxy (unsightly) residue on top of the wood. I've experimented soaking wood in it, too, but it turns walnut almost black, which isn't usually desirable.

 

[DeanDallas]

In the next few days I plan on refinishing an British enfield. If you would have patience, I can show you the best product to use.

Or look at the pictures on this at post #23 for Aussie coach wood L1A1 butt stocks. Soaked in pine tar one time 8 years ago with nothing else added.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=756161

 

[Ignition Override]

Interesting. Thanks.

hq: Greetings to Finland. How does rubbing in tung oil not allow walnut to darken somewhat, or is the residue always wiped off before this begins? By the way, some of the most attractive stocks I've seen are on Finnish Mosin Nagant rifles. It must be long dark days, maybe a sauna with snow to dry off?

DeanDallas: Very patient, and quite busy for several days. Will "stay tuned" to this.
Even later, I'm not about to try any sanding or rubbing tung oil/pine tar soaking etc until meeting in person with an experienced milsurp guy.

 

[hq]

Tung oil has small molecular structure which allows it to impregnate wood much faster than linseed oil. The resulting color will be a bit darker even when it's just rubbed in. I'm not intimately familiar with the chemistry involved in the residue buildup but I'd hazard a guess it's some form of oxidization and it's HARD to remove once it has dried. Whenever I'm not in a hurry, I get a gallon or so of linseed oil, pour it into a tank and leave raw, sanded stock(s) to soak in it for an extended period of time.

I love the flame birch used in some Mosin-Nagant and other military stocks, too. I'm currently in the process of restoring two Suomi M/31 SMG stocks and while repairing dents and getting all the patina off feels a bit like losing a piece of history, the wood itself is just too gorgeous to not to do it.

 

[DeanDallas]

The theory of the SA Army oil used by Finland on their rifle stocks during refurbishment has been noted by several reference's of having Wood pitch linseed oil, turpentine and possible use of painters naphtha.
I have problems with anything being used that is volatile in a hot vat at the Arsenal, so it must have been raw linseed oil.
And the odds are the wood pitch used was a common birch pitch for that area.

But pine tar itself is a whole new game in town. It is true wood oils all packed in one natural product, ready to do a job that beats the heck out of the old methods of stock care.

 

[boom boom]

You asked about linseed oil that has not been boiled. It is the same as flaxseed oil found in most health food stores--btw pure linseed oil is edible. NOT SO for the various BLO usually found with a variety of additives to speed up drying time. Try milsurps.com for a lengthy discussion of BLO, pure flaxseed oil (linseed), tung oil, and pine tar finishes and how to best apply them.

 

[hq]

Good timing. I've just spent a few days experimenting with the finish on a pretty beat up Winchester 1897 shotgun stock and working on a vintage double barrel Sauer & Sons shotgun stock. They both got the old dishwasher treatment to remove most of old oil and grime, which gave a good base to work on.

I wet sanded the 1897 stock with 120 and 600 grit first, and let it dry for a few days. I started with 50/50 tung oil and white spirit mix, rubbing it in with 600 grit, and repeated the process twice during 24 hours. At this point the finish was matte, a bit dull compared to what it originally was. I switched to 1200 grit and pure tung oil. After repeating it three times the finish was pretty much identical to original specification. However, I wanted to add a slight gloss so I continued with Tru Oil, buffing it with 0000 steel wool between applications. It has a bit more sheen than it should, but now it's pretty much exactly how I like it. Had I left it at how it was after tung oil + 1200 grit and just applied a couple of more layers with no further sanding, it would've been cosmetically indistinguishable from milspec.

The shotgun stock will get a full oil polish job as it's my "pheasant gun" for classier hunts, but as it's a WWII era (mfg November 1942) gun, the finish it had was amazingly close to what the wood on well worn K98 Mausers looks like. Maybe it was dunked in linseed oil as well and left there for a while, because shotguns weren't in high demand for german war effort?

 

[DeanDallas]

Shotguns were in big demand as a training aid, guard use and special services in all branches of the military. I had a ex government owned model 12 pump for years until my farm auction in 82.

 

[hq]

Shotguns were in big demand as a training aid, guard use and special services in all branches of the military.

US military definitely had plenty of use for the venerable 1897 pump as well as Winchester 12 and 21, Browning Auto-5, Remington 31 and others, but I doubt Wehrmacht had that much for a box lock side-by-side with a semi-fancy walnut stock and case hardened frame. My father bought it new after the war.

 

[DeanDallas]

May be I misunderstood what you said.