First Batch, and Two Issues

Status
Not open for further replies.
T

TenDriver

Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2009
Messages
1,223
Location
Huntsville, AL
Finally got my press in and set up. First up was a batch of 44 Mag. We had to abort. After destroying a couple of cases due to operator error, I ended up with this:
View attachment 179299View attachment 179300
I'm using Lee 44Spl dies labeled as 44 Mag capable.

Second problem. Crushed three cases of 8mm before giving it one last try meeting success. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360294207.391569.jpg

After pulling and resizing
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360294283.651804.jpg
Would these be safe to reload, or should they be on the dead pile? Hate to sacrifice brand new Hornady brass, but better to trash it than blow something up.
 
I destroy 6 cases when learning a new cartridge. Mostly because I forget to read the instructions that come with the dies. It seems so obvious at first and then... Crushed case, or worse.
 
Your 44 pics I assume are dead links. What dies are you using? It looks like you are crimping and seating at the same time, and that will cause your issue there. The cases don't look that bad. Looks like the sizer die worked the shoulder back. What happened to the 44 brass? Reading your equipment instructions is right up there with reading the general section of your reloading book IMO. I think I would use the rifle brass, but can't see the entire case so if there are no other issues with it I don't think it will give you any problem.

Mike
 
I can open the pics of your 44 mag brass, so I can't advise you with that incident. But I would bet it's due to an over crimp that buckled the case. If so, if the case will chamber after you've resized it again, you can load it and shoot it, and the wrinkles will iron out.

The 8mm looks to have a buckled shoulder, so it seems you have the seating die adjusted down too far, thus creating an over crimp syndrom. If you can get it resized enough to chamber, then it will also iron out when fired. FYI, you don't need to crimp bottle neck cases unless they are for a machine gun, elephant gun, or a tubular magazine.

Place an empty case in the shell holder and run the press to full stroke, then thread the die in until it touches the case then back it out about 1-1/2 turns. Then to adjust seating depth, loosen the seating plug located on top of the die, and then thread it either up or down to attain desired seating depth.

GS
 
Game, my dilemma is 9 of the 8mm came out beautifully with the crimp right on the canelure. I know I don't need the crimp but I'm not sure how to adjust it out.
 
actually, the last picture, and the brass on the right I would not reload.

Too many things showing up there, The length (which can be trimmed), there looks to be a crack in the rim also. almost looks like it was stepped on or run over.

It's just common sense! Use it!

AF
 
That 44 load is very over-crimped, back off a bit before you destroy the brass within a few reloads. It's obvious you are very new at this. Are you completely sure the powder charges are correct and there is only 1 charge in each case? Where did you get your load data? It seems fairly low so you should not have an overpressure problem.
 
When I first started loading 223 I made a couple of those funny looking rifle rounds. It comes from crimping over crimping. Crimping isn't really necessary on rifle rounds just check em with the push test to see if pushing them as hard as you can muster with your thumbs will cause any setback.
 
AF, I think you're talking about the 8mm case. They both got crushed, and the one on the right absolutely needs trimming if it gets reloaded. I didn't find any cracks on it, but its covered with lube and needs a closer inspection. It may very well find the trash.

Load data came out of Lyman's #49. Both the 8mm and the 44 are no more than .2 gr over the min suggested load. They were weighed out on a digital scale I trust. Bullets were also weighed before seating and ended up being 5 gr heavier than I thought they were for the 44. The charges were loaded with a dipper, each charge weighed before loading. I have not yet messed with the powder measure. Im absolutely sure there are no double charges. The 8mn are loaded with I believe 46 gr of 4064. Don't have the manual in front of me right now but we referenced it each time we loaded a cartridge.

Y'all are correct. Brand new to this. Tonight was the first time. I've been wanting to get started for years and finally took the plunge.
 
First up- WAY too much crimp on that 44.

Second up- using 10 or so cartridges to get the dies setup perfecty is not uncommon. Make sure you have a disassembly method ( kinetic puller, collet puller- your choice) on hand to save your components. I still regularly use 7-8 uncharged cases to calibrate my die setup- don't feel bad.

Third up- Congrats. Through fits and starts, you are on the road to success- keep 'em coming.
 
TenDriver said:
Game, my dilemma is 9 of the 8mm came out beautifully with the crimp right on the canelure. I know I don't need the crimp but I'm not sure how to adjust it out.
Click to expand...
crimpimg bottle necks ,, what fun !!! you need more outside chamfer, and make sure cases are trimmed the same , and only push firm , you should feel the stop point, I crimp 35Rem and 32Rem only, there both tube mag. guns,
if you have a sharp edge on the outside of your neck the die will push the brass down and not in, like you want , give them more outside champer and try agaiin
 
Woah! Tons of crimp there. Using an empty and sized case, back out your sizing die and raise the case into the die. Then back down the die until you feel it stop(when the crimping part hits the case mouth). Once you find where the die hits the case mouth, remove the casing and give the die another 1/8 turn and lock the die in place. Run an empty sized case through the die and you should just barely see a rolled edge on the case mouth.

When belling out the case mouth while dropping powder, adjust it such that the bullets just barely sit in the case. At this point, back out the knob for adjusting the seating depth two turns. Plop a bullet on the case and slowly lower the lever right until you feel a tiny bit of resistance. This resistance is where the die starts to crimp the case. Pull it out and look at It/ measure it with your calipers. Slowly adjust the seating depth while not crimping the round such that it is very close to the crimp grove/cannalure. At this point fully lower the lever to seat the bullet a bit more and apply the crimp. You will likely at this point need to dial the bullet down a bit but it shouldn't shave off much lead when you are that close.

This should get you started but you will need to do some fine tuning. For heavy recoiling hot 44 mag loads, you will need a heavy roll crimp. For light loaded 44 lead target rounds, you just need enough "crimp" to remove the belling on the case mouth.
 
If it chambers, holds a primer, and holds a bullet with proper tension, I'll load just about any case. Dents in the case body don't bother me a bit.
 
I would not load those cases where the shoulder was buckled and then pulled out. The buckling and straightening out caused a weak line all the way around the case. Straighten a small bulge and your OK, straighten a crease and you have weakened the brass.

I agree with the others, still too much crimp on the .44. :)
 
Walkalong said:
I would not load those cases where the shoulder was buckled and then pulled out. The buckling and straightening out caused a weak line all the way around the case. Straighten a small bulge and your OK, straighten a crease and you have weakened the brass.

I agree with the others, still too much crimp on the .44. :)
Click to expand...

I'm going to err on the safe side and pitch those buckled cases.

If you don't mind, check the 44 round in post #5. Thanks!

It seems to me I still crimped too much on the jacketed bullets though. Is it common to need to adjust the crimp between cast and jacketed bullets?
 
44 mag.crimp.jpg should look like this, "sorry about the glare" you should be able to see there is just a bit of a role over on the edge of the mouth , thats all you need, take a sized case (unflared) put it in your press trun the die in , just touching the case , then another 1/8 turn , this should just role the mouth of your case in , that should work for both cast and jacketed bullets ,
 
Thank you. I just found a Lee video I should have watched before getting into this. I'll have to try it out when I get home to make sure, but I think I'll have the problem taken care of.

Thanks again for all the info.
 
I found that the instructions that came with my RCBS dies were actually very good. I recommend rereading the instructions.
 
I have Lee dies and used the instructions to set up, but my understanding of what they were saying could be lacking.

I'll give it another try when I get home.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

WrongHanded
  • Locked
First Batch of .357: Teething Problems
2 3
Replies
64
Views
3K
Walkalong
Walkalong
S
  • Locked
my first reloaded batch....complete with oops!
Replies
18
Views
1K
the foot
T
vaalpens
  • Locked
357sig First batch load on Lee Turret, but no Lee Auto-Drum
Replies
20
Views
678
vaalpens
vaalpens
Rodentman
  • Locked
S&W 500 issue...
Replies
11
Views
1K
243winxb
243winxb
M
  • Locked
Lil'gun in 454 (Warning, rambling)
Replies
7
Views
1K
mohican
M
Back
Top