First bow hunt next year....gear list?

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JamisJockey

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Next year it looks like I'll be participating in my first ever Bow Hunt, for Elk. I've never taken big game before, also.
I'm hoping for a minimum must have suggestion list for an Elk bow hunt. So I've got less than a year to get all my equipment, its probably time to get started.


Also, posted in non-firearms, what brand bows should I avoid or try to get in the under $400 range?
 
Keep you eyes open for sales. Now the time of year for sporting goods stores to have their "end of season" sales. Find the clerk that actually bow hunts. If you've got a Gander Mountain near you , their guys actually hunt with what they sell and know what they're talking about. But like any group of hunters you get two together and you've got 5 different opinions. (I don't work there not have any affiation, but they've never done me wrong and have saved me money ("You don't really need that $100 dollar gizmo, try the $3 one, it works better.")

Buy at least a dozen arrows (2-3 dozen are better). Use 3 for practice and keep 9 for broadheads. Arrows lose their accuracy (e.g. they get bent) the more they get used.

Practice, practice, practice. Various ranges, times of day (light levels), and wear what you'll wear in the field. (WOW, these super duper high power bino's really get in the way of my draw, I can't see my peepsight through this facemask unless it's high noon, etc. etc. etc.) Have someone (preferably an experience bow hunter) stand behind/beside and listen for noise.

Moleskin is great for reducing that metal grating on metal sound when you draw back. (Yes, I'm the moron that drew back on a REALLY nice buck and boy did he take off like a scalded cat when he heard those aluminum arrows grating across a metal arrow rest :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: )

Make sure you get it fitted to you (Draw weight and length). You don't need a lot of gizmos, just a decent sight, "spider" string silencers, and some type of vibration dampener, A detachable quiver is handy also.

My Browning Stalker (bought at an end of seadon/overstock sale) has taken it's fair share of deer, and g-d willing will keep the family freezer full.

HTH, YMMV.
 
My local Gander Mountain is having a sale right now. Like scout said their guys all seem to know their stuff and use what they sell. I just bought a Fred Bear compound bow (think it was a promaster, its not one listed on their website :confused: ) It comes with a quiver, arrow rest, peep sight, 3 pin sight (fiber optic) and 3 carbon arrows (minus heads). All for $250. This is about the only way I could afford to take up bowshooting after I looked at the cost of a stripped bow and all the stuff to go with it.
It seems like a really nice bow, the guys at the store said it was good quality and would be very good for someone getting started. Mine was rated at 72 lbs, which isn't really that hard to draw and its supposed to really fling an arrow (about 300 fps). I had to put it on layaway until they get a new module to extend the draw length for my freakishly long arms though :banghead:
 
Do yourself a favor and buy your bow from your local pro shop who will properly fit you for the bow. And while you are there, shoot as many different makes and models as possible to find the one that just feels right to you. Once you have been properly fitted, go home and practice, practice, and practice some more.

As for your trip, if you don't already have them, get yourself a good pair of binoculars and a good binocular harness that will keep them out of your way as you are drawing. Good socks and liners will also make your trip more enjoyable.
 
What is your experience with archery?

Its alot more technical that picking up a gun and sighting it it. Alot goes into tuning a bow for hunting.

1st thing, if you buy a bow from Gander Mountain, take it to a local bow shop for proper tuning and fitting. The Gander Mountain guys might not put in the effort like a respectable bow shop will.

Draw length, arrow rests, cam timing (not so much with single cam bows) and shooting form are all factor in to successful bow shooting.

Arrow tuning with broadheads is another bear. Arrows fly much different when you take off the target point and put on broadheads. If your set up is off a bit then the arrow will not fly to point of aim. I recommend paper tuning if you can. Arrow spine is another thing you need to be aware of.

about 300 fps
Im assuming thats IBO rating concidering the price your paying.

The difference is the draw weight to arrow weight ratio. For bowhunting I would stick with a mid range arrow weight. This will help with kinetic energy and penetration. For elk, you need good penetration. Heavier arrows will retain more energy than lighter arrows but not shoot as flat as lighter ones. Also, the lighter the arrow, the louder the bow. Carbon arrows, on the other hand, do retain good down range energy too.

I prefer to use a hip quiver instead of one on the bow for two reasons. One, it takes the extra weight off the bow. Archery hunting for Elk involves alot of walking instead of sitting in a tree stand. Second, the weight on the side of the bow affects the balance of the bow and how you hold it on draw.

Are you a finger shooter or a release shooter. That makes a difference on what type of arrow rest you use. Also, get a good hydraulic stablizer to help soak up the vibrations. Limb savers are great for that also. Also, try and find a fiber optic sight. These help tremendously in low light situations like deep woods, early or late evening shots.

Go to http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/ website and read up on their technical stuff they have to offer on bow and arrow tuning.

Im in the process of setting up an old PSE G force bow for bowhunting in Ohio/WVA in a couple of weeks. It has the Maxis HL hatchet cams and boy is it a challenge. I love challenges though, thats why I kept it.

Archery is a fun and sometimes fustrating sport when things dont fly right or you miss the big one.

Practice, Practice, Practice.

Indoor ranges are nice but buy a 3-D target and use that most. Hitting a wall with paper targets is one thing, but hittin an animal size target with nothing behind it is a whole different thing.

Enjoy.
 
As for equipment outside of the archery arena, I would definitely find a good quality backpack that you could use to carry game out. Unless your doing ATV's or horseback, your gonna have to carry out your harvest.

Range finder and bonoculars of good quality is a must. Alot of time will be spent spotting and stalking. Make sure your camo pattern matches the area and the material isnt noisy.

Cow and elk calls are a definite must. Quality knife and bone saw should also be concidered. Camelback for water, extra clothes in case the weather changes (high country hunting) good walking boots, gloves that wont affect your shooting also should be concidered.

If your not riding horses or ATV's, and are hunting in high country, you better start getting into good physical shape soon. Walking or running up and down stairs, or hills is a great way to get the ticker and legs in shape for hill country.

Ok, enough from me. Have fun!
 
Thanks for the advice, I think your confused a little though, I am the one who bought the fred bear bow but I'm not the one going elk hunting :D

I will definitely be reading throught his thread from time to time as I get this stuff set up. I just want something to shoot that won't wake the neighbors up like my gun, and figured I'd get something that could poke a deer if I ever felt the urge.
My bow is/will be a single cam. I think its 36" axle to axle, and is pulling 72 lbs, and the draw length will be at least 30 inches if not more (I got long arms and they didn't have a module so its not set up yet :banghead: ). I'm sure it will be short of the advertised 300fps, but I'm sure it will be more than adequate for hunting if I ever decide I'm good enough with it.
 
Oh well, hopefully it helped you both out. ;)

I will be up in Lorain next weekend visiting the family. I am bringing my bow to do a little hunting while Im there. Didnt have any luck down here in AZ so maybe Ohio will be better. If not, the following week Im gonna be hunting up on our land in WVA.
 
Thanks for all the good info!
I used to be an experienced archer, on the high school shooting team to boot (before it got canceled!). I owned and shot a compound bow, but I couldn't tell you the brand to save my arse. I think my dad still has his old recurve, I might have to ask for it.
That was over 10 years ago....so I'm a little rusty. I'm familiar with alot of the nomenclature, and what part does what.
 
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