SteelyNirvana
Member
I'm also thinking about the $329 Savage in .270 at Dicks. So tell us cuervo, how well does it shoot?
First Deer Rifle Advice
- Thread starter cuervo
- Start date
- Status
I haven't had the chance to shoot it yet.
I ordered a Fullfield II scope from Cabela's, but they're on backorder. In order to use it, I had to find some offset mounts, and bought Weaver's, which hopefully have enough cant to work with the long action Savage. I've got a few more weeks to deer season, so I'm not sure how long I'll wait for the Fullfield or just go with what came with it this year.
I'll post results either way.
I ordered a Fullfield II scope from Cabela's, but they're on backorder. In order to use it, I had to find some offset mounts, and bought Weaver's, which hopefully have enough cant to work with the long action Savage. I've got a few more weeks to deer season, so I'm not sure how long I'll wait for the Fullfield or just go with what came with it this year.
I'll post results either way.
351 WINCHESTER
Member
When I go deer hunting I have many rifles to choose from. I choose to take my marlin/glenfield as it comes up to my shoulder like no other rifle I own. It also carries well in the woods, doesn't jam and is chambered in a ctg. that can be bought just about anywhere where ammo is sold.
The point I'm trying to make is it's not just the caliber, but how well the gun feels, points, carries, shoulders. Browning rifles are too long for me, but the marlin 336 is oh, so fine.
The point I'm trying to make is it's not just the caliber, but how well the gun feels, points, carries, shoulders. Browning rifles are too long for me, but the marlin 336 is oh, so fine.
Houston Tom
Member
every one you listed will get the job done. I agree that the M1a1 is also a great choice for deer. As has been pointed out if it is just deer the larger cal is not needed and as you already have a 308 you might want to look at the 270 etc if you need to add something in that cal range to your collection. I have a ruger m77 in 250 savage that is a sweet deer rifle. Look at your current collection and see not only what will get the job done because any of those listed will do that but what makes sense to be added to your collection.
I very much like the Leupold Rifeman line if you are on a budget.Shop on line and you will be spending $165-$200 depending on the power.
I have been useing the lower power one (2x7?) and am very pleased with it . The Rifleman line seems to compare very well with other scopes in that range. Unless you are scopeing a bb gun don't even look at a scope below $100, most are just more trouble than they are worth and don't hold up well .
I have been useing the lower power one (2x7?) and am very pleased with it . The Rifleman line seems to compare very well with other scopes in that range. Unless you are scopeing a bb gun don't even look at a scope below $100, most are just more trouble than they are worth and don't hold up well .
Congrat on you new rifle.
Me, I'd stick with the M1A. It's as accurate as many bolt guns, tough as hell and has the fastest second shot, just in case. I don't see what the big deal with weight is. I lug my 'loaded' all over, and with scope, heavy barrel and all it weigh somewhere around 11-12 pounds. Light enough for DMs to lug around Iraq, along with all their other gear.
Me, I'd stick with the M1A. It's as accurate as many bolt guns, tough as hell and has the fastest second shot, just in case. I don't see what the big deal with weight is. I lug my 'loaded' all over, and with scope, heavy barrel and all it weigh somewhere around 11-12 pounds. Light enough for DMs to lug around Iraq, along with all their other gear.
jpwilly
Member
Savages are great rifles for the money...I have a new Mossberg ATR (just to be different). Shoots under 1" at 100 depending on how you pull the trigger. Here she is:
Here's the latest:
We took off the offset rings and put on straight rings. The plain rings were better, but still left very little windage adjustment in the scope after bore-sighting it. Contributing to this a little is that the Burris Fullfield has only about 4 revolutions of windage from end-to-end.
We centered the scope and put on some windage-adjustable bases and everything looks better.
I took it out today and was consistently in the black at 100 yards, but still wandering over the target. One shot would be dead center and then the next high and right. Towards the end, my shots were going low, and I started to think it was barrel sag.
That got me to realize that it is probably better to zero this rifle in a manner that the barrel doesn't get hot (say one shot every ten minutes or so) since deer rifles are not going to be shot very much in a short time period anyway. I was also using CMP white-box Federal ammo, which isn't the most accurate. So I'll probably buy a couple of boxes of hunting ammo and use one box to get a cold zero and safe a box for hunting.
We took off the offset rings and put on straight rings. The plain rings were better, but still left very little windage adjustment in the scope after bore-sighting it. Contributing to this a little is that the Burris Fullfield has only about 4 revolutions of windage from end-to-end.
We centered the scope and put on some windage-adjustable bases and everything looks better.
I took it out today and was consistently in the black at 100 yards, but still wandering over the target. One shot would be dead center and then the next high and right. Towards the end, my shots were going low, and I started to think it was barrel sag.
That got me to realize that it is probably better to zero this rifle in a manner that the barrel doesn't get hot (say one shot every ten minutes or so) since deer rifles are not going to be shot very much in a short time period anyway. I was also using CMP white-box Federal ammo, which isn't the most accurate. So I'll probably buy a couple of boxes of hunting ammo and use one box to get a cold zero and safe a box for hunting.
skinewmexico
Member
The most important shot is the first, cold bore shot, so that is what I would go with. A buddy of mine told me once that if you wait at least 3 minutes between shots, barrel heating doesn't come in to play as much. And make sure your actions screws are torqued to spec, that will stop some wandering.
I tightened up everything on the scope and mounts and started by rezeroing with Winchester 150gr soft points.
I waited five minutes between single loading to get a zero, which took about 4 shots.
After that, I did groups of four (since that's what the magazine holds) with the four shots in about 1 minute and the groups spaced about 15 minutes apart.
I shot anywhere from 1" to 2.5" (knuckle measure) at 100 yards with the occasional flyer. I think the flyers happened more with loading four rounds, so I dropped to three and things improved a little.
I think the ammmo was, and still is, an issue. I know the CMP Federal isn't that great. The Winchester is an improvement and maybe someday I'll load my own.
I waited five minutes between single loading to get a zero, which took about 4 shots.
After that, I did groups of four (since that's what the magazine holds) with the four shots in about 1 minute and the groups spaced about 15 minutes apart.
I shot anywhere from 1" to 2.5" (knuckle measure) at 100 yards with the occasional flyer. I think the flyers happened more with loading four rounds, so I dropped to three and things improved a little.
I think the ammmo was, and still is, an issue. I know the CMP Federal isn't that great. The Winchester is an improvement and maybe someday I'll load my own.
TCB in TN
Member
I like both the Savage and the Mossberg. Either are great little guns for the money and will be wonderful starter deer rifles.
Hutch
Member
I know everyone likes to brag on their .5MOA rifles, but 2.5MOA is PLENTY good enough for deer hunting. If you reload, you can probably cook something up that will cut the group size in half.
MCgunner
Member
I recommend either the stevens or savage without a scope and then go buy the 200 dollar and up scope of your choice. Personally, I'm sold on Weaver as a "bargain" scope of good quality, better quality than scopes costing over 100 dollars more. I don't do cheap scopes. You won't either when it messes up on you and costs you game. The rifle will be danged decent, but those bargain scopes are junk...
I have a couple of 'em on .22s and they've held up okay, though the optics are still....
I have a couple of 'em on .22s and they've held up okay, though the optics are still....
ojibweindian
Member
cuervo
If you really want accuracy, you'll need to reload. And, believe it or not, you can get into it for under $150;
1. Lee Hand Press Kit - http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=624416&t=11082005 for $30
2. Powder Scale - http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=702400&t=11082005 for $51
3. Shell holder - http://www.midwayusa.com/ebrowse.ex...2&categorystring=9315***731***19786***8109*** roughly $4.00
4. Powder runs about $23 per pound at my local supply store
5. Bullets can run from $15 per 100 to $53 per 100. I use Core-Lokts for a 7mm Mag ($15 per 100).
6. Last time I bought primers, I paid about $2.39 for a box of 100. Because I've got roughly 8 1000 packages of rifle primers on hand, I'm good to go for a REALLY long time
7. Brass is roughly $15 per 50.
Total cost is $140. And, the only recurring costs are powder, primer, and bullet. Brass tends to last quite a while as long as you're not trying to send a bullet into a low-Earth orbit.
My rifle shoots a bit over MOA with factory Winchester and Remington ammunition. My handloads are under MOA.
If you really want accuracy, you'll need to reload. And, believe it or not, you can get into it for under $150;
1. Lee Hand Press Kit - http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=624416&t=11082005 for $30
2. Powder Scale - http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=702400&t=11082005 for $51
3. Shell holder - http://www.midwayusa.com/ebrowse.ex...2&categorystring=9315***731***19786***8109*** roughly $4.00
4. Powder runs about $23 per pound at my local supply store
5. Bullets can run from $15 per 100 to $53 per 100. I use Core-Lokts for a 7mm Mag ($15 per 100).
6. Last time I bought primers, I paid about $2.39 for a box of 100. Because I've got roughly 8 1000 packages of rifle primers on hand, I'm good to go for a REALLY long time
7. Brass is roughly $15 per 50.
Total cost is $140. And, the only recurring costs are powder, primer, and bullet. Brass tends to last quite a while as long as you're not trying to send a bullet into a low-Earth orbit.
My rifle shoots a bit over MOA with factory Winchester and Remington ammunition. My handloads are under MOA.
- Status
