First Range visit with Ruger Security Six. Cycling problem?
- Thread starter gossamer
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A new wrinkle. I noted I could fit a .004 gauge in from the right side of the BC gap (from the rear of the gun), but not the left. Then noticed this little scar on the left side of the BBL. It's the silverish scare at about 11:00 as you look at the barrel from this pic.
I think this is why I can't get the feeler in from the left side (drop out side) but can from the right side of the gun (from the hammer side)
Is this something I can dress out with a fine hone or steel wool and then a good cleaning or should I take this to a smith or send it to Ruger?
Thanks again.
I think this is why I can't get the feeler in from the left side (drop out side) but can from the right side of the gun (from the hammer side)
Is this something I can dress out with a fine hone or steel wool and then a good cleaning or should I take this to a smith or send it to Ruger?
Thanks again.
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Man, I would love to know how someone mangled that forcing cone that badly. I believe you have found at least part of the problem. I would lightly stone off the high spots, check clearance again and I would also have a smith run a range rod down the barrel and check for a bent crane. Somebody got kind of "physical" with that Ruger.
You might dress that down with a fine stone...keep it square and stroke it lightly just until it's gone. Stone, cover with kids chalk and dry fire to check for rubbing. I've never seen a cylinder grow over .002 when popping em quick, but who knows.
During firing pay close attention to the cylinder face and the end of the barrel shank for rub signs in the carbon. When you dump empties do it as close to vertical as you can, it helps limit the crap getting under the star.
You could have a Smith do all that and adjust end shake if that turns out to be the problem. But start with the most likely and less invasive first....it's a good way to learn about your gun!
During firing pay close attention to the cylinder face and the end of the barrel shank for rub signs in the carbon. When you dump empties do it as close to vertical as you can, it helps limit the crap getting under the star.
You could have a Smith do all that and adjust end shake if that turns out to be the problem. But start with the most likely and less invasive first....it's a good way to learn about your gun!
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I can see a sliver of light shining through the gap when I close the cylinder ... But ... If I smear chalk on the cone rim and close the cylinder there is chalk residue on the cylinder face. The chalk does not smear when I dry fire it.
It looks like the only chalk transfer is when the cylinder closes.
So maybe all the chalk transfers from cone to cylinder on closing?
It looks like the only chalk transfer is when the cylinder closes.
So maybe all the chalk transfers from cone to cylinder on closing?
The reason I asked is those marks/chips in your photo look to be in the same location where the cylinder first passes over the forcing cone. They don't look to be to serious due to the fact they are on the outside of the cone. That being said, the endshake bearings should prevent any future contact in that area when closing the cylinder.
My Security Six, that I referenced earlier, would hit the forcing cone in that same spot when I closed the cylinder while pointing towards the ground. After I installed the endshake bearings there was no more contact while closing the cylinder.
My Security Six, that I referenced earlier, would hit the forcing cone in that same spot when I closed the cylinder while pointing towards the ground. After I installed the endshake bearings there was no more contact while closing the cylinder.
That doesn't look like the cylinder is contacting the forcing cone in rotation, it looks like it did that in closing the cylinder. I wonder if someone played with the endshake and got it so loose the cylinder hit the forcing cone. If the current cylinder shows no sign of damage, it might be a replacement.
Jim
Jim
ZeSpectre
Member
What I was saying was if you can run a credit card through things are WAY out of spec. Sorry I was in a rush and wasn't clear.
I have a concern that someone, at some time, thought it was "cool" to "snap" the cylinder shut and may have bent the crane.
I have a concern that someone, at some time, thought it was "cool" to "snap" the cylinder shut and may have bent the crane.
A bent crane is also a possibility.
No experience with "bent cranes". So I can't help much if that's the problem.
I've owned two revolvers where the cylinder would hit the forcing cone upon closing. Both were caused by a sub-standard B/C gaps. Luckily I caught the problems before they did any damage. They were both fixed by installing endshake bearings.
First thing I did with my .38 Speed Six was completely strip and clean it. Mein Gott, it was nasty. I'm not guilty of over cleaning my guns, but I fear some folks don't believe in ever cleaning theirs.
Never dealt with a bent crane, as I never allowed anyone to snap mine closed.
I always figured that anything Hollywood showed, in gun handling, was either unsafe or harmful to the gun.
Never dealt with a bent crane, as I never allowed anyone to snap mine closed.
I always figured that anything Hollywood showed, in gun handling, was either unsafe or harmful to the gun.
I disassembled the gun today per the manual. It was easier to lightly dress the outside edge of the cone if the cylinder wasn't in the way and I didn't want to bugger up the cylinder either. I smoothed out the burr.
I pulled the ejector rod out to see if it was bent because (a) there appeared to be a bit of wobble when I spin the cylinder and (b) if I do have to install endshake bearings I figured I may as well learn how to remove the pin now.
This led to two minor complications:
Even though I wrapped in in thick leather, I slightly scarred the knurled ejector rod end. It's not the end of the world but it's a battle scar. And, I read at the Ruger forum that if you remove the rod you need to buy a replacement star washer. Numrich has a SS ejector rod but no Blued ones and they they say they are sold out of star washers.
To me, $6.50 is a cheap price to pay for a new ejector rod and eliminate that being a culprit. But I can't find a source for a new one in blued.
Beisdes Numrich, does any one have any ideas for a new rod and star washer?
I pulled the ejector rod out to see if it was bent because (a) there appeared to be a bit of wobble when I spin the cylinder and (b) if I do have to install endshake bearings I figured I may as well learn how to remove the pin now.
This led to two minor complications:
Even though I wrapped in in thick leather, I slightly scarred the knurled ejector rod end. It's not the end of the world but it's a battle scar. And, I read at the Ruger forum that if you remove the rod you need to buy a replacement star washer. Numrich has a SS ejector rod but no Blued ones and they they say they are sold out of star washers.
To me, $6.50 is a cheap price to pay for a new ejector rod and eliminate that being a culprit. But I can't find a source for a new one in blued.
Beisdes Numrich, does any one have any ideas for a new rod and star washer?
Had a good conversation with Ruger this morning.
I called to ask them about servicing my SS and they are going to look at it and address whatever problems they can.
They echoed a lot of what others have talked about here so you all are in good company.
One thing he mentioned is that .38 spl loads can and often do back out the chambers a bit upon recoil in this gun. He said that most likely that was causing my cycling hang-up.
He still thought it a good idea to check the forcing cone, B/C gap, crane and see about straightening the rod. So, I sent it to them today.
$80 for overnight shipping was a bear but I'd rather it spend as little time as possible bouncing around various hands along the route to NH.
Great people and a great company. So far I have to say my experience with them has been positive.
I called to ask them about servicing my SS and they are going to look at it and address whatever problems they can.
They echoed a lot of what others have talked about here so you all are in good company.
One thing he mentioned is that .38 spl loads can and often do back out the chambers a bit upon recoil in this gun. He said that most likely that was causing my cycling hang-up.
He still thought it a good idea to check the forcing cone, B/C gap, crane and see about straightening the rod. So, I sent it to them today.
$80 for overnight shipping was a bear but I'd rather it spend as little time as possible bouncing around various hands along the route to NH.
Great people and a great company. So far I have to say my experience with them has been positive.
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