Garyshome
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Not a good way to prime. Get a lee auto prime. Faster,Safer, easier. Or a Dillon press!
First reloads and question
- Thread starter V-fib
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Dave Bulla
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Yea, I've got both the Lee and RCBS hand primers with the primer trays and several Lee's without it. I think I prefer the Lee over the RCBS but I like the square primer tray on the RCBS better than the round one on the Lee.
Usually though when using the Lee classic kit I don't bother getting them out because I load complete rounds as I go instead of sizing all cases, charging them all, seating all the bullets etc etc. I do all the steps to load one complete round then move on to the next one. I can seat the primers with the classic kit and a mallet in about 3 or 4 taps consistently and practically never pop a primer.
Honestly, I'm of the opinion that if you're new to the Lee kit you should pop one or two primers on purpose just to see how hard you have to hit 'em and how harmless it actually is. Granted, they're fairly loud but aside from making you jump they don't do much that could hurt ya. Now, maybe if a fella was leaning over his work trying to look down in the case at the same time as he's inserting a primer and isn't wearing safety glasses I suppose its POSSIBLE to get something in your eye but the priming rods usually fit the case mouth fairly well so you can't see anything anyway. The natural ergonomics of the whole process is to have it sitting on the table or bench out in front of you standing vertically so it's not pointed anywhere near your face, it's pointing straight up.
I've got 5 or 6 different calibers in the "Zero Error Target Loader" which is a fancy target version of the classic loader and it comes with a hand priming tool so when using those kits, you have to hand prime since it doesn't even have the tool to prime with the mallet. The target kits are really sweet since they have a fantastic neck reamer setup and the die body has micrometer markings on it so you can zero the die to a particular bullet then dial the die down to an exact seating depth. It also has the hand held case length trimmer and shell holder.
Sorry to get so long winded... I just kinda get into these kits so I tend to get blabby about 'em when they come up.
Usually though when using the Lee classic kit I don't bother getting them out because I load complete rounds as I go instead of sizing all cases, charging them all, seating all the bullets etc etc. I do all the steps to load one complete round then move on to the next one. I can seat the primers with the classic kit and a mallet in about 3 or 4 taps consistently and practically never pop a primer.
Honestly, I'm of the opinion that if you're new to the Lee kit you should pop one or two primers on purpose just to see how hard you have to hit 'em and how harmless it actually is. Granted, they're fairly loud but aside from making you jump they don't do much that could hurt ya. Now, maybe if a fella was leaning over his work trying to look down in the case at the same time as he's inserting a primer and isn't wearing safety glasses I suppose its POSSIBLE to get something in your eye but the priming rods usually fit the case mouth fairly well so you can't see anything anyway. The natural ergonomics of the whole process is to have it sitting on the table or bench out in front of you standing vertically so it's not pointed anywhere near your face, it's pointing straight up.
I've got 5 or 6 different calibers in the "Zero Error Target Loader" which is a fancy target version of the classic loader and it comes with a hand priming tool so when using those kits, you have to hand prime since it doesn't even have the tool to prime with the mallet. The target kits are really sweet since they have a fantastic neck reamer setup and the die body has micrometer markings on it so you can zero the die to a particular bullet then dial the die down to an exact seating depth. It also has the hand held case length trimmer and shell holder.
Sorry to get so long winded... I just kinda get into these kits so I tend to get blabby about 'em when they come up.
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"zero error target loader"
Dave, Is the "zero error target loader" made by Lee? What calibers do they come in? I'm thinking of learning to load some 30.06 for hunting and wonder how these compare to the Lee Classic loader in 30.06.
v-fib
Dave, Is the "zero error target loader" made by Lee? What calibers do they come in? I'm thinking of learning to load some 30.06 for hunting and wonder how these compare to the Lee Classic loader in 30.06.
v-fib
Dave Bulla
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V-fib,
The best way to see the difference is to go online and look for kits for sale. There are usually about 4 to 5 pages of them on ebay but there may or may not be any of the target kits available. Also, the target kits are a fair bit more expensive since they are no longer made. One in good condition for a 30-06 usually sells for $75 to $125. I'll go see if I can find a couple of each type and come back with a couple links for ya.
The best way to see the difference is to go online and look for kits for sale. There are usually about 4 to 5 pages of them on ebay but there may or may not be any of the target kits available. Also, the target kits are a fair bit more expensive since they are no longer made. One in good condition for a 30-06 usually sells for $75 to $125. I'll go see if I can find a couple of each type and come back with a couple links for ya.
Dave Bulla
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Almost forgot, a while back I posted copies of the instruction sheets for some of the Lee kits on another site. It's real common to find a kit for sale and the instructions are missing so people are always asking for them. Here's a link so you can go read them and it explains in detail how each works and also has pictures of the parts. Especially read all the way through the target loader instructions and it tells you a lot. If I recall, they claim that the reamer shaft and die are milled within .0002" tolerance. That's two ten thousandths and buddy that's precise. One fifth of one thousandth of an inch to put it another way. See the section headed "Before you start reloading" on the second page just to the right of the pic of the micrometer adjustment.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?189173-Lee-Loader-instructions
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?189173-Lee-Loader-instructions
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Dave Bulla
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Here's a link to one in 270. If it goes under about $50, it'll be a deal.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lee-Target-...003?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e814975b3
And here is a standard kit. The standard kit box has changed several times over the years starting with a red cardboard box followed by a red box with a black lid. Then there was a split of some sort in Lee and Mequon was formed. Identical kits, different name. Then came the hinged red plastic box like in the below link and last is the clear red box with a non hinged lid.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEE-Loader-30-06-/360760820654?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53ff0543ae
In the standard kits, there were two variants. One was the "improved" lee loader, the other was the "Unitized" Lee Loader. ALL the kits neck size only EXCEPT for the Unitized kit which full length sizes and you can certainly tell when pounding the case into the die. You can use the regular kits with no lube but the Unitized kit really runs best if you lube the cases. Both the unitized and the improved kits come in the same size box as the standard kit but they both have a red hand priming tool instead of the priming rod.
**Note** The unitized kit and the improved kits look EXACTLY the same except for the lid on the box and the only real difference is that the unitized kit full length sizes
Sorry for throwing so much info out at you but you sounded interested and I figure it might save you some confusion. It took me a long time to figure out the differences in them all.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lee-Target-...003?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e814975b3
And here is a standard kit. The standard kit box has changed several times over the years starting with a red cardboard box followed by a red box with a black lid. Then there was a split of some sort in Lee and Mequon was formed. Identical kits, different name. Then came the hinged red plastic box like in the below link and last is the clear red box with a non hinged lid.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEE-Loader-30-06-/360760820654?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53ff0543ae
In the standard kits, there were two variants. One was the "improved" lee loader, the other was the "Unitized" Lee Loader. ALL the kits neck size only EXCEPT for the Unitized kit which full length sizes and you can certainly tell when pounding the case into the die. You can use the regular kits with no lube but the Unitized kit really runs best if you lube the cases. Both the unitized and the improved kits come in the same size box as the standard kit but they both have a red hand priming tool instead of the priming rod.
**Note** The unitized kit and the improved kits look EXACTLY the same except for the lid on the box and the only real difference is that the unitized kit full length sizes
Sorry for throwing so much info out at you but you sounded interested and I figure it might save you some confusion. It took me a long time to figure out the differences in them all.
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Bush Pilot
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Does Dillon include a mallet for priming or do they make you buy one?
Dave, Thanks for the info I'll check out the links provided.
Bush Pilot, I could be wrong but I don't think Dillon has any kits that you need to use a mallet to seat the primer. The Lee Classic loader does and yes you have to get either a plastic faced mallet or rubber mallet for various functions of the loader.
V-fib
Bush Pilot, I could be wrong but I don't think Dillon has any kits that you need to use a mallet to seat the primer. The Lee Classic loader does and yes you have to get either a plastic faced mallet or rubber mallet for various functions of the loader.
V-fib
mahansm
Member
Bush Pilot,
They're having you on. Dillon makes progressive presses that prime on the press. Their catalog is online at their website. Good stuff, but a die set and adapter kit for one of their presses costs more than a Lee Loader.
The two issues people have with Dillon presses are 1. coming up with the $ to purchase and equip one and 2. running out of components.
They're having you on. Dillon makes progressive presses that prime on the press. Their catalog is online at their website. Good stuff, but a die set and adapter kit for one of their presses costs more than a Lee Loader.
The two issues people have with Dillon presses are 1. coming up with the $ to purchase and equip one and 2. running out of components.
Bush Pilot
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I was making a joke, I've actually got 9 Dillon presses and haven't had to use a mallet on one for years.
Lost Sheep
Member
Mallet materials
Mallets come in various materials.
Brass, hard rubber, plastic, wood, rawhide and maybe some others I have not seen.
You want to avoid steel because you want your mallet/hammer to be of softer material than the tool you are hitting. Otherwise you could peen the tool and ruin it. Also, a softer blow (more cushioned than steel on steel) has less of a chance of setting off a primer.
If you MUST use a steel hammer, put a piece of wood between it and the tool.
In a pinch, you can use a 2x4 as a mallet. You can even cut down one end of it to make a handle. Watch out for splinters unless you tape it or sand is real smooth.
Good luck
Lost Sheep
Mallets come in various materials.
Brass, hard rubber, plastic, wood, rawhide and maybe some others I have not seen.
You want to avoid steel because you want your mallet/hammer to be of softer material than the tool you are hitting. Otherwise you could peen the tool and ruin it. Also, a softer blow (more cushioned than steel on steel) has less of a chance of setting off a primer.
If you MUST use a steel hammer, put a piece of wood between it and the tool.
In a pinch, you can use a 2x4 as a mallet. You can even cut down one end of it to make a handle. Watch out for splinters unless you tape it or sand is real smooth.
Good luck
Lost Sheep
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