First Time Cold Bluing

[Dabrito]

Hi friends,
I tried to cold blue the barrel of a carbine last week and made some mistakes,i have a question and i hope you can help me
What kind of product can i use to stop the action of the bluing product(Super Blue,Perma Blue or Oxpho Blue),Can i use Acetone?
What can i use instead of water?
Thanks a lot
Diego

 

[film495]

I think you wipe Oxpho Blue off and then wipe with treated metal with oil, it does somthing with the oxidation and stops the reaction.

 

[Dabrito]

I think you wipe Oxpho Blue off and then wipe with treated metal with oil, it does somthing with the oxidation and stops the reaction.

When using Super Blue or Perma Blue,can i just wipe with wet paper towel and start cleaning for the next coat? Is that enough to stop the action?

 

[Alaskan Ironworker]

That’s usually what I do, with good results.

 

[wiscoaster]

Why don't you want to use water? That's what you're supposed to use to stop the bluing action. Dunk the entire part in water or liberally spray with water. Dry by wiping and/or heating. Spray with WD-40 to get rid of any remaining water in small spaces. But don't use WD-40 or any oil if you've still got more applications to do. You should be steel-wooling in between applications to get rid of the excess oxidation. All of the products you mentioned will work better if the part you're bluing is heated before application. I stick mine in an oven turned up to 150 degrees F.

 

[herrwalther]

Cold water is used to partially neutralize the bluing product (Permablue, Oxpho etc) without using oil. Once you use oil the process completely stops and you will have to clean/degrease again if you have streaks or an uneven color. As long as you get rid of all the water after bluing, water is fine to use.

When I cold blue, I degrease the steel, blue two or three coats. Douse with water on a sponge to prevent pitting. Because whatever product you use is more powerful oxidizer than water is. Then use oil to check for color and coverage. Repeat the process until I get the color I want.

 

[hdbiker]

I tried to cold blue a octagon mussel loader barrel a couple times, never looked that good, so I browned it, looks pretty good now . hdbiker

 

[DocRock]

One key to decent cold bluing is metal prep. The smoother and more polished, the better the final result will look. Aggressive degreasing is critical. Warm metal will take the bluing better than cold metal. Too hot and the solution will scald leaving a patchy surface.

I use Dicrophan T4 gel from Brownell's and find that a strong full coating of the barrel rather than trying to "paint" a coating on works best. Coat, leave for 10 minutes, and wipe off with wet paper towels, then immediately polish with #0000 steel wool. To get a deeper color with hints of plum, I strip the barrel and then do one treatment with a browning solution. I use Laurel Mountain Forge barrel degreaser and browning solution. Coat, give it 12 hrs, wipe with paper towels, then go at it with the steel wool, degrease again with Windex, and then coat with Dicrophan. The browning undertreatment yields a deeper bluing with some hints of plum. On a well polished surface, the Dicrophan alone yields a rather faded gunmetal finish. On less well polished surfaces, the Dicrophan tends to be darker - and if the surface is uneven, so too will the bluing be.

 

[wiscoaster]

#0000 steel wool ALERT!! Steel wool is packaged for sale well-oiled for better preservation. Before using steel wool on metal parts post bluing it needs to be DEGREASED!! A couple rinses in acetone works great.

 

[Paul R Zartman]

After my oxpho blue process, which is different than the directions, I let set for 24 to 48 hrs after wiping off with paper towel. Then after the 24 to 48 hrs I wipe with paper towel soked Bourbon whiskey, then a shot of whiskey to steady my hand while I apply Pledge spray wax liberaly to all outside surfaces, then another shot per hour while I stare at the beautiful piece of art I just achieved...enough said...

 

[tws3b2]

I used oxpho on several barrels without any problems. Just read the directions. I think that's why they put it on the bottle.

 

[Paul R Zartman]

#0000 steel wool ALERT!! Steel wool is packaged for sale well-oiled for better preservation. Before using steel wool on metal parts post bluing it needs to be DEGREASED!! A couple rinses in acetone works great.

Use this awesome stuff...

 

[tws3b2]

I used oxpho on several barrels without any problems. Just read the directions. I think that's why they put it on the bottle.

I have to use 2 hands. So, a shot for each hand? Two shots per hour? I'd never get it finished.

 

[Paul R Zartman]

I have to use 2 hands. So, a shot for each hand? Two shots per hour? I'd never get it finished.

Thats kind of the idea...

 

[wiscoaster]

Use this awesome stuff...

Thanks for that. Don't know why I didn't know about it. Never too old to learn, though, I guess.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Got a pot or pan big enough to boil the piece in?

Try express blue. Get it from Brownells. Follow the instructions. It's more durable than hot salt or cold blue. It's applied like a browning solution. Here's a thumbnail summary:

Polish.
Degrease.
Apply.
Boil.
Card.

Repeat as necessary.

Oil when done.

 

[Armorer 101]

I used oxpho on several barrels without any problems. Just read the directions. I think that's why they put it on the bottle.

Amazing how easy that is!

If you wash steel wool with acetone, before you use it, it no longer has oil in it. If you do rust blue, and I do, it is a very similar process, “carding.”

Ospho Blue does work, I use it on the lesser guns I get in, that will not be taken care of.

 

[tws3b2]

Amazing how easy that is!

If you wash steel wool with acetone, before you use it, it no longer has oil in it. If you do rust blue, and I do, it is a very similar process, “carding.”

Ospho Blue does work, I use it on the lesser guns I get in, that will not be taken care of.

I use brake "parts" cleaner. Either way oxpho does work.