First time Garand reloading

[Mustang51]

I cross posted this in the reloading section...

I'm getting ready to handloadload my first Garand ammunition. I've reloaded before for bolt guns in 7.65 Argy, 7.5 Swiss, 7.62 x 54R and 8 x 57, but never for 30.06 and never for any semi and I had a few questions...

I'm using HXP brass dated '67, '68, and '70, full length resized with a standard RCBS reloading die set...any reason to segregate the brass and load only one year? Any problems to look for on the brass sizing for a semi?

I'm planning on loading 45.5, 46.0, and 46.5 grains of IMR 4064 with a 168 gr Nosler Custom Competition bullet and seeing which is most accurate. Anyone think that a different charge would be better?

How many reloads do people normally get with loads in this range from HXP brass?

I've also got some commercial Federal and Lake City military brass, would either of those be a better choice?

I'll be using CCI #34 primers

I plan on loading to an overall length of 3.285 with no crimp.

Anyone see any problems or have any suggestions?

Thanks

 

[Vern Humphrey]

I'm using HXP brass dated '67, '68, and '70, full length resized with a standard RCBS reloading die set...any reason to segregate the brass and load only one year? Any problems to look for on the brass sizing for a semi?

As regarding segregating brass, ask the gun.

Load up a batch and shoot groups with both segregated and mixed brass and see if there is any significant difference in group size.

I'm planning on loading 45.5, 46.0, and 46.5 grains of IMR 4064 with a 168 gr Nosler Custom Competition bullet and seeing which is most accurate. Anyone think that a different charge would be better?

I personally would stop at 46.0 grains. There is no need to strive for high velocity in the Garand.

How many reloads do people normally get with loads in this range from HXP brass?

Not many. The problem is full-length resizing. If you go to an X-die, you can get a few more reloads out of a case.

I've also got some commercial Federal and Lake City military brass, would either of those be a better choice?

Again, ask the gun. I'd load up everything I had, and then compare mixed and segregated loads.

I'll be using CCI #34 primers

I plan on loading to an overall length of 3.285 with no crimp.

Anyone see any problems or have any suggestions?

Good primer, good OAL, and you don't need a crimp.

 

[cheatin charlie]

m1 loads

There has probably been hundreds of thousands 168 g. bullets sent down
range with the M1 using 4895 powder. Just starting out reloading the M1
there is no better powder to start with. Why reinvent the wheel, it is easy
on the rifle and can be as accurate as any other power made. Ask anybody
with M1 target shooting experience. Just my advice been there done that.
Charlie

 

[Mustang51]

There has probably been hundreds of thousands 168 g. bullets sent down
range with the M1 using 4895 powder.

I'm not married to 4064, although it has worked very well for me. It is just what I have at the moment.

 

[MRH]

While the #34 primer is a great choice, I've never had any problem with M1, FAL type or CETME type rifles using Winchester Large Rifle primers. However, the SKS I have will only keep from slam fires by using the #34.

Just something to keep in mind with primer shortages.

Mike

 

[Mustang51]

Thanks, MRH

I bought some of the #34's during the last panic of '09 and have 1K of them. I'm reloading for my Garands and Ljungmans and figured I might as well use them.

 

[Reloadron]

You may want to give this a read. Many of the loads he covers are close to many of the ones I have tried and used. As to the brass pay close attention where he mentions:

These loads only duplicate military spec. velocities for the given bullet weight, using commercial cases and powders. If you are using military cases, drop all charges by 2 grains.

If you are looking for accuracy, drop all charges by 1 grain and work up .2 grains at a time.

My own experiences have shown me the ideal load for a given rifle may suck in another rifle so the name of the game is working up loads for your specific rifle and not rely too much on what anyone says is the perfect M1 Garand load. If you happen to have IMR 4064 start low and work up just like you would normally do. I have had good luck with IMR 4895 and IMR 4064 both work well but I gravitate to IMR 4895 and a few Vihtavuori powders also.

Happy & Safe Loadings...
Ron

As to the brass? I inspect after every firing and generally starting with new Federal, Winchester or Remington brass I load it 4 times and discard it. Your call on that note.

 

[carbine85]

There has probably been hundreds of thousands 168 g. bullets sent down
range with the M1 using 4895 powder. Just starting out reloading the M1
there is no better powder to start with.

+1 Probably the best powder for the Garand. Good overall powder for the AR15 also.

 

[Mustang51]

Thanks, guys.

I was just looking over my HXP brass and noticed there are three stakes on the primer pocket. Am I going to need to ream those off before I re-prime or are they an issue?

 

[Reloadron]

Yeah, if you want to have the new primers go in nicely. Push come to shove a phillips screwdriver can be used to ream them unless you have a fancy swager or reamer.

Ron

 

[USSR]

Quote:
These loads only duplicate military spec. velocities for the given bullet weight, using commercial cases and powders. If you are using military cases, drop all charges by 2 grains.

If you are looking for accuracy, drop all charges by 1 grain and work up .2 grains at a time.

This is simply a case of someone assuming that something that is true regarding .308 Win and 7.62x51 military brass, is equally true with commercial .30-06 and military .30-06 brass. It is not true, and loads using military .30-06 brass do not need to use reduced charge weights.

Don

 

[Mustang51]

I prep'd several cases and tried to seat primers in them...about half went right in and half either stuck or were extremely hard to seat. Those I gently reamed with a deburring tool.

I think that I'm starting low enough that whether the case is a military or commercial, I'll be safe as long as I watch the pressure signs

 

[soloban]

I get 3 or 4 loadings for brass in the Garand. After that the rim get too tore up so it becomes fodder for case conversion into 8mm

 

[Art Eatman]

Don't cross-post.