First time loading coated

[Reeferman]

I bought some coated 145 grain .360 diameter bullets the other day. I'm wanting to load a very light load with these. Of the powders I have Bullseye,Unique, Tightgroup and 231 seems to be the way to go. I'm thinking of starting with 2.5 grains of Bullseye in a 357 case.
Can't find this exact bullet in Hornady, Speer or Lyman books so any help would be appreciated.

 

[zb338]

I have shot bullseye all my life. A lot of years. The shooters shooting revolvers use
2.7 Grains of Bullseye with excellent results. The rest of the powders you mention
will also work.

Zeke

 

[Reeferman]

Man 2.5 grains of Bullseye sure doesn't look like much. I'm using a 686 with a 4.2" barrel

 

[Reeferman]

So loaded a dozen at 2.5 guns of Bullesye. Which brings me to another question are the cowboy dies worth getting to load these. I found that I couldn't get decent case expansion and had to use the FCD to take the bulge out of the case so they would fit into the cylinders on my 686.
I have Hornady and Lyman 38/357 dies and could not get them to work better than what I had or the cases looked like a trumpet.

 

[thomas15]

Try your titegroup about 3.2-3.3grains. You can put a mild roll crimp with the fcd. As far as the bulge you are mentioning find out exactly what is causing it, then correct it. For coated bullets I have found that the RCBS or Redding expander die work better than Lee, but that is just my experience. You need quite a bit of flair in the case mouth to avoid shaving the coating off.

 

[Reeferman]

Try your titegroup about 3.2-3.3grains. You can put a mild roll crimp with the fcd. As far as the bulge you are mentioning find out exactly what is causing it, then correct it. For coated bullets I have found that the RCBS or Redding expander die work better than Lee, but that is just my experience. You need quite a bit of flair in the case mouth to avoid shaving the coating off.

Actually there is no coating getting shaved off just that bulge. I even removed a couple of bullets and there is just a stain in the case where it was and no lead showing on the bullet. The Hornady and Lyman expanders I have work great for .357 plated or jacketed bullets but not so good with these .360 ones.

 

[Ruger 15151]

NOE stepped expander plugs work great with over-sized lead bullets. You can buy them in several sizes depending on the diameter of your bullet. They recommend .001 over diameter. They not only provide more even expansion, but they also create a shelf for the bullet to sit on which helps to insure the bullet is being seated as straight as possible. The plugs are a direct fit for Lee dies.

Check them out:

http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=88&products_id=2805

 

[earplug]

I'm using coated bullets in 38 spl sized .358. I'm betting your bulged cases is caused by your .360 bullets.
When I was using deep seated wadcutters I'd get some bulged cases due to my mixed brass various web design. A LEE factory carbide crimp die worked to enable the loaded cartridges to chamber. Depending on the quantity of oversize bullets you bought, buy a LEE push through bullet sizer .357/358 and resize your bullets. The Lee factory carbide crimp die is a worthwhile tool to own to rework loaded rounds.
The standard 2.7 grains of Bullseye was for a 148 grain wadcutter seated flush in a 38 spl case. I suggest you use 38 SPL brass for light loads.
Your bullet nose/ogive is to be seated outside the case. Combined with the larger case capacity in a .357 magnum. This will reduce pressure and may produce a squib or inconsistent powder burning with very small powder charges. You will get better light load results with the smaller 38 SPL case.
You could use data for a 150 grain cast SWC.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Why did you buy 38 S&W bullets to load in .357 Magnum brass? You don't need cowboy dies, it's the bullets giving you a problem. You should have bought 158gr .358" bullets.

As for a load, I would charge between 3.4gr and 3.5gr W231 for a very light load with those bullets.

 

[SARuger]

Lyman M die will get you a better bell to work with, its not really even a flaring die just an expanding die.

 

[drband]

As stated--bullets are too large.

 

[Reeferman]

Why did you buy 38 S&W bullets to load in .357 Magnum brass? You don't need cowboy dies, it's the bullets giving you a problem. You should have bought 158gr .358" bullets.

As for a load, I would charge between 3.4gr and 3.5gr W231 for a very light load with those bullets.

Some reason my phone wouldn't work. Anyways not sure what you mean by 38 S&W as they were sold as 38/357? I would have bought .358 but where I'm at these were the only ones I've seen other than paying outrageous shipping charges as they work out more than buying Hornady XTP bullets.

 

[someguy2800]

If your able to get them all in the cylinder after using the FCD then go ahead and shoot them up with light loads and get .358" next time. The factory crimp die is sizing them down enough to fit. Of the powders you mentioned I would use bullseye as it burns really well at low pressures. I would load them with about 3-3.5 grains in a 38 special case.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

I bought some coated 145 grain .360 diameter bullets the other day. I'm wanting to load a very light load with these. Of the powders I have Bullseye,Unique, Tightgroup and 231 seems to be the way to go. I'm thinking of starting with 2.5 grains of Bullseye in a 357 case.
Can't find this exact bullet in Hornady, Speer or Lyman books so any help would be appreciated.

First, for light loads I prefer using 38 spl brass.
Of your powders, any except for the Unique. It likes to live in a fuller case.
Cowboy dies are nice, but not a must. The problem is the bullet diameter. Two choices, one the FCD to size the bullet after loading. The other is to size with a Lee sizing die. But that's another tool to by so the FCD is the way to go, for now. (It pains me to recommend the FCD, but I'll get over it.)
For loading data with handgun bullets, the weight makes more difference than the shape. I would use data for 148 gr bullets, but not from hollow base wadcutters. Flat base data is good..

 

[Reeferman]

Will be trying these out this week and guess I'll make sure I have a wood or brass dowel with me. After sizing the dozen I loaded with the FCD they all fit in the cylinders fine. None of which I can see any coating that got scrapped off.
Even though the cowboy dies or any dies for that matter cost an arm and a leg I'm going to get a set. I think what the problem is I can't get the cases expanded properly. Either the Hornady or Lyman expanders I have won't work for these bullets or I'm just not talented enough.
Have any of use used a coated .360 bullet in a 686 and have it work ok?
From what I have been able to find out is the Hornady or other cowboy dies are very similiar to a Lyman M die but hopefully someone can enlighten me on this.

 

[earplug]

You don't need new dies. You need smaller bullets.

 

[someguy2800]

Just curious, why did you order that size? Even if you can fit them in the cylinder without using the factory crimp die the bullet will just size down in the cylinder throat unless the throats are oversize.

 

[Reeferman]

Just curious, why did you order that size? Even if you can fit them in the cylinder without using the factory crimp die the bullet will just size down in the cylinder throat unless the throats are oversize.

I didn't order them I bought them at our gun show. Made by a small company a couple hundred miles away. Like I said I have never loaded cast or coated before so I didn't realize that there is such a difference in sizes. I tried some cast 357 reloads from a large reloader and the barrel of my 696 looked like it had no rifling in it after 50 rounds. Took a lot of work to get the leading out.
So I thought I would try reloading some coated bullets but if I can't get this straightened out I'm just going back to jacketed or plated bullets.

 

[someguy2800]

It will work fine with the dies you have if you get .358 diameter bullets next time. There is nothing at all wrong with shooting the bullets you have now after putting the through the FCD to get them to chamber. I would shoot them all with no reservations.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

It will work fine with the dies you have if you get .358 diameter bullets next time. There is nothing at all wrong with shooting the bullets you have now after putting the through the FCD to get them to chamber. I would shoot them all with no reservations.

Agreed. The cowboy dies will not solve your problem. If you can make them work with the FCD shoot them up and remember to buy .358 bullets the next time.

I have the cowboy dies in .32-20 and they work great. But I have standard dies for 38/357. With .358 diameter bullets the loaded cases have a visible swell, but still fit in my Colts. They are sometimes snug in my 686, which has cylinders about .0005 smaller than the Colts. If they don't fit, I get out the resizing die and make things so they do fit properly.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

I didn't order them I bought them at our gun show. Made by a small company a couple hundred miles away. Like I said I have never loaded cast or coated before so I didn't realize that there is such a difference in sizes. I tried some cast 357 reloads from a large reloader and the barrel of my 696 looked like it had no rifling in it after 50 rounds. Took a lot of work to get the leading out.
So I thought I would try reloading some coated bullets but if I can't get this straightened out I'm just going back to jacketed or plated bullets.

The leading issue can be overcome. Read this thoroughly. http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_7_Leading.htm

How many 360 bullets did you buy?

 

[clearcut]

Why don't you size them down to .358 after you powder coat them that's the only way they work for me. The lee sizer is low priced and works on most presses .

CC

 

[Reeferman]

The leading issue can be overcome. Read this thoroughly. http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_7_Leading.htm

How many 360 bullets did you buy?

That was a good read. Two bags of 250 each.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

What I meant when I said .38 S&W bullets is, usually when loading for the 38 S&W you use 145/146gr cast bullet with a .360" diameter. 38/357 bullets are usually .358" diameter and the wider bullet is causing your problems. There is no need to but expensive cowboy dies especially since you were trying to save on shipping. The dies may flare the case more but your problem is the bulge caused by the wide bullet. You said you are not getting any shaving so new expensive dies will do nothing but cost you money. I have been using plane old .38 Special dies with cast bullets for a very long time, they work well.

The Missouri Bullet Company makes great coated bullets and they sell for a fair price.
http://www.missouribullet.com/index.php
They also sell 100 count sample packs too. The owner is a friend of this forum and its members.

 

[Havok7416]

I didn't order them I bought them at our gun show. Made by a small company a couple hundred miles away. Like I said I have never loaded cast or coated before so I didn't realize that there is such a difference in sizes. I tried some cast 357 reloads from a large reloader and the barrel of my 696 looked like it had no rifling in it after 50 rounds. Took a lot of work to get the leading out.
So I thought I would try reloading some coated bullets but if I can't get this straightened out I'm just going back to jacketed or plated bullets.

There is a small but appreciable difference between the .38 Special/.357 Magnum and .38 S&W cartridges, although you aren't the first to get confused by the numbers. The leading likely had more to do with driving the cast bullets at the wrong velocity or the wrong diameter for your barrel than anything else. Coated will work, even in .357. I have some pictures of coated bullets I fired and retained in water, but I don't have time to put them up at the moment.