First time reloading

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Tokarevsrule

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I am thinking about starting to reload 30-30 brass, and I would like to know how much of the case trimming and cleaning I have to do.I do not care how accurate or consistent the rounds are, as long as they go bang and are safe.:)
 
You must trim the cases if they get over the max length. Lee sells an inexpensive set up that works well for many folks. As far as cleaning all you really have to do is wipe them clean of grit. Shiny is optional. I would recommend that you FL size. You do not have to screw the die all the way down, just enough to get the brass to chamber freely. Assuming a lever action, you do not have the strong camming action of a bolt gun to crush fit the brass to the chamber.

Safe and go bang? Follow your load books directions and you'll be fine. :)
 
You will need to full length resize for reliable chambering and triming to a uniform length will help with crimping. The cheap lee trimmers work good. You only need to clean the brass if its dirty since it doesnt matter if it is shinney.
 
All above is good. Additionally....

• The number of shots without trimming is based on the power of the load. If you shoot light "plinking loads" then you'll get further than if you do high power hunting loads. Follow?
• For just "playing around" you can make very inexpensive loads that may never need trimming by using a powder called Trail Boss with some M19 plastic practice bullets. You'd have to load them 1 at a time in a lever action, but if you're goofing around, who cares?

30_cal_plastic_bullet_s.jpg


You can buy 1000 bullets for $40 here Dang that's almost free.

You can watch this load being shot in a Garand here. He even waves them in from of the camera.

:rolleyes:
 
My only reload background is with British .303 (one year).
With the small hand-held trimmer, it requires a very sharp, strong Yank out of the case by holding the case in a wrench, and yanking the other end with pliars.

What is the least-expensive device which will prevent this very awkward step?
I used the same trimmer on several cases of 30-06 (.308), and the trimmer almost got stuck in the case.
This is ridiculous, but I never found a website which explains what other trimming components are:confused:, what is needed in different combinations of parts, certainly nothing with simple graphics.
 
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Mr Override -
#1 You need to read The ABCs of Reloading which is often found at local libraries
#2 You need to get your own thread

All the best
 
Trimming brass doesn't have to be expensive...

I use a Lee Zip Trim which costs only $15.99.

The Lee Case Length Gauge & shellholder will cost you $4.49.

The Lee Case Trimming Cutter w/Ball Grip costs $6.99.

A Lee Chamfer & Deburring tool is only $2.79 and the Lee Primer Pocket Cleaner is only $2.09.

There are better tools out there but for the price, the Lee tools work just fine. For a total of only $32.35 you have all you need to recondition the cases and get them ready for loading. I use the Lee Zip Trim and it works well for me. Would I like a nice motorized trimmer from RCBS, sure but I don't want to spend the $249.95 to buy one. Even the $100 hand powered RCBS or Forster trimmers are a little out of my price range. (although they are really good tools)
 
I use the Lee case trimmer in an battery drill that I already own. When I have a large amount to do I have a cutter stud without the ball and chuck it up in my 1/2 drill press and use the press table as the stop, lots faster than dealing with the lock ring and base. Wear a leather glove for safety when holding the brass and go for it. Works well for me. YMMV

BTW I have no problem with the Lee case trimmers binding in any of my brass but use standard neck sizing buttons also. If undersized button is used then the shank of the spacer will have to be reduced as well.
 
Lee Zip Trim...

Tokarevs Rule--Just answered the same question for Ignition Override. Pls see his thread on the same subject. Thread is named "Hand Trimming .303 or .30-'06 cases"
 
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Assuming you have a lever-action 30-30?

If so, yes, you do have to FL size every case, every time it is fired.
Neck sizing will not work for ya.

Yes, you will have to trim every case, because you will have to crimp every round for use in a tubler magazine lever-action.
That requires all cases to be the same exact length, unless you buy a Lee Collet Crimp FCD crimp die.

But even then, out of every caliber I reload for, I have found more case length & neck thickness variation in different brands of 30-30 cases then any other caliber.
They simply must be trimmed to do a decent job reloading them.

rc
 
Congrats on your next step. Be sure to use flat tipped boolits in 30-30s. Spire points may get you "excited". My son loves his lever. He uses it for his deer rifle without scope and lays 'em down with regularity. Have 100 to load asap. The 223s, 9s, and 45s are first.
 
Recommendation: Do NOT shoot a round unless you KNOW it is within spec...ie. not too long. You run the risk of the chamber squeezing down on the brass and holding the bullet where it is hard to release upon firing...pressures at that point could be VERY DANGEROUS! A shooter could wind up wearing the rifle....Be careful
 
It is a winchester 94. I was planning on using cast flat nose bullets so I can shoot swinging metal targets without putting holes in them.
 
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