Fitting and finishing new stock & forearm

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bikemutt

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I have a conversion project underway to turn a Marlin 1894 walnut straight grip into a laminate pistol grip rifle.

I bought the furniture from Macon Gunstocks, the unfinished buttstock is presently with the gentleman doing the lever and tang conversion . Macon will actually fit the wood for a hefty price, and the waiting time is substantial, not mention all the shipping fees to send the rifle and parts back and forth. The only thing they can do that I can't imagine doing is checkering the stock, but I don't want it checkered.

Just test fitting the buttstock indicates a fair amount of material would have to be removed. It doesn't look as if it's an impossible task but the fact Macon charges as much to do the fit and finish is making me nervous; I may be underestimating the level of effort and skills required.

Has anyone here fit and finished stocks and forearms and would care to share some advice? Is this something that can be done by someone with basic woodworking skills?

At a minimum Macon wants $300 to fit the wood and $125 to clear coat it.

Thanks.
 
It is possible to do it with basic wood working skills, and tools. Just take your time, and remove a little material test fit, repeat. It is just time consuming to get a perfect fit.
 
I am not too sure I would try to fit a stock and forearm with my basic skills for the first time. This maybe relative though.

Clear coat finish for $125 is something I would consider doing myself. I take it that clear coat is a hi-gloss clear coating like a 2 part epoxy or poly product. I know how to use these type of products however I would not recommend any of them for a newbie. They can be a little expensive if you include thinners and cleaners as well for a small job. I take it you want a high gloss finish with as natural unfinished walnut look. I would see no other reason for a clear coat. I would find a one part clear coat and practice with that. I really do not like a clear coat. I would like a nice hi semi gloss with a little tint. The easiest product I would think would be Watco teak oil. You can build it up to a nice semi gloss. 2 or 4 coats could get you there and I would not go over 320 dry paper and brush the last coats after the pores are sealed. A simple and nice finish easy to maintain. If you get a scratch or something lightly sand the area and rub some oil in the area. After it drys, sand the whole piece and brush on a coat or two. If one day you want to remove the finish mix a little ammonia and water and wash the pieces off. The finish will strip off. I have used Watco teak and danish oils for years. it is a good finish.

I guess there could be a lot of good finish suggestions for a newbie. It would depend mainly on what you like.
 
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