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It made me try knifemaking which cost me about $10k with the trip to Blade and all the equipment, and now we're building a new house and of course I have to have a new shop. I'd have to sell knives for more than I do now and until I'm 90 just to break even! But it's not about that - it's about the fun I have making them and most I trade.
If you don't mind the cost the best 5-inch bladed knife with a superior sheath system would be several of Bud Nealy's custom knives. Check these out at...
John Greco makes several excellent knives in the 5-inch range, but his sheaths are simple leather belt pouches. I especially like John's MST and Whisper myself and have carried them for sometime. A separate order to Blade-Tech or Bob Dozier would deliver the sheath you were looking for though. In fact I think you'll find this to be the best option in many cases. Few production knives have truly superior sheath systems. Here are these links...
My favorite pair of productions knives in this range would have to be the Spyderco Fred Perrin (recently discontinued, but still available) and Temperance models. I've handled the Benchmade Nimvarus and liked it as well.
The Buck was a great knife back when it was availabe in 440C. I think 420 makes poor knife steel, very hard, very brittle, and does not retain an edge well.
If yours is an older model it is an excellent knife. I would love to find one of the older Buck 105s. Great knife. I would get Blade Tech to make me a nice sheath and never need a different knife.
That Kershaw Boot will end you up in jail quick in Texas. I just ordered a First Strike (CRKT) and soon am getting an Urban Pal (Cold Steel) and Kubon (Cold Steel) if I can find the Kubon in the new AUS steel.
Congrats on some good choices. I suggest that you work with each, to make sure that you can manipulate it quickly and safely under stress, especially the Spike. I love the looks and design of the Spike, but the hilt doesn't fit my hands well.
With inexpensive knives, I think it's worthwhile to buy a 2nd one and grind/file off the edge and point to make a practice blade. This gives you something safer to practice with (you still need to be careful).
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