Fixing the transfer bar on my Ruger Bearcat

[Packman]

Hey THR,

I have a new model Ruger Bearcat that my parents gave me for Christmas a few years back. I was working the action after cleaning it last night and managed to snap the transfer bar off. This renders the gun unshootable, unfortunately.

Does anyone have any experience with fixing this? If I can get the part, is this something I can fix myself, or do I need a gun shop? For reference, I'm no stranger to the workings of single action revolvers, and I have access to moderate tools and equipment.

Any insight would be much appreciated.

 

[rcmodel]

I don't believe Ruger sells the transfer bar as an owner replaceable part.

So, best call Ruger and get a call tag to send it in for repair.

rc

 

[Jim K]

The part is available from Gun Parts Corp., but Ruger recommends it be factory fitted to make sure it works properly. Unless you have some experience with working on that gun, I strongly recommend you call Ruger (they might pick up the shipping tab) or have your dealer return it (he can use the mail at a lower rate, where you would have to ship UPS or Fedex at a much higher cost.

Jim

 

[Ohen Cepel]

I really like Rugers but working on their SA's have been rough on me.
For that reason, and that the warranty should cover it, I would send it back to them. Plus, being a safety issue I think that would be the best option.

 

[rcmodel]

Bearcat transfer bars are 'Sold Out' at Gunparts.com.

Ruger does not sell transfer bars for home amateur gunsmith fitting any longer.
You can't get them from Brownell's, Midway, Gunparts, Ruger, or any place else I'm aware of.

Call them, send it in, and get the 'new improved' part properly factory fitted!

rc

 

[dprice3844444]

call ruger 928-541-8892 arizona

 

[g.willikers]

Out of plain curiosity, just gotta' ask,
How did you break the transfer bar?

 

[1911Tuner]

How did you break the transfer bar?

When the hammer hits the transfer bar well before it hits the frame, there's a condition called "Transfer bar Pinch" and it can break the bars. A lot of dry-firing is the usual cause of early failure, but it can happen when firing live ammo. It just takes longer.

There's a test to see if your Ruger hammer pinches the transfer bar.

Cock the hammer and lower it while holding the trigger. Release the trigger and watch the hammer. If it moves forward more than just a barely discernible distance...as in less than .010 inch...it's pinching, and it'll eventually break. Ideally, there should be no movement.

Fortunately, it can be remedied with a smooth mill file and patience before it becomes a problem. If it's just a wee bit'o'movement...take a little off the hammer face that hits the bar. Go slow and be careful to keep the contact surface true.

If it's a lot, it requires removal of the bar. Take a little off the bar and a little off the hammer until you get zero movement. Careful, now. Too much and you get misfires.

If it's just a little movement, and you don;t want to bother with it...just don't dry fire. It'll take a lotta shootin' to break it.

 

[murf]

when you call ruger, get a shipping label from them. the freight cost on this repair should be on them.

murf