I just replaced my old deburring tool with Sinclairs new Gen II flash hole deburring tool. The new tool has a sleeve on it to limit the depth of the chamfer. My question is, do you let this sleeve bottom out to max depth on the web? When I do this and the flash hole is chamfered it looks awfull thin at the webb when looking from the pocket primer. Sinclair's catalog indicates that is what the sleeve is for, but it just feels odd to take that much out. In my opinion to do so would ensure the same chamfer all the time. I have also uniformed the pockets using Sinclair's pocket uniformer as well. BTW I am prepping .308 FGM cases. Feed back appreciated.
Flash Hole Deburring...........
- Thread starter One Shot
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Maj Dad
Member
Less Can Be Better
One Shot,
I use the RCBS tool, which has separate pilots for each caliber; I like the look of the Sinclair, though. When I use mine, I touch the web gently, probably removing a few thousandths. I wouldn't want to leave a big funnel-shaped crater, though I am not sure what the official limits are. I spin my cases in a Lee case holder after trimming with the, yep, Lee case trimmer, and inside & outside chamfering with an RCBS tool (again, gently, just removing the sharp rings). After that, I insert the deburr-er and gently press against the base and that's it. I always get trimmings on new and/or once-fired stuff, but I only do it once. I haven't encountered any previously trimmed flash holes developing beards...
One Shot,
I use the RCBS tool, which has separate pilots for each caliber; I like the look of the Sinclair, though. When I use mine, I touch the web gently, probably removing a few thousandths. I wouldn't want to leave a big funnel-shaped crater, though I am not sure what the official limits are. I spin my cases in a Lee case holder after trimming with the, yep, Lee case trimmer, and inside & outside chamfering with an RCBS tool (again, gently, just removing the sharp rings). After that, I insert the deburr-er and gently press against the base and that's it. I always get trimmings on new and/or once-fired stuff, but I only do it once. I haven't encountered any previously trimmed flash holes developing beards...
All it is is a center drill in a tube. If it is going too deep for your liking, push the center drill a little deeper in the tube--the tube acts as the stop, and does lead to consistant depths, though I'm not sure that is really a big deal. I only do it once to new brass, and to be honest, don't even always do it. I suspect that if you are an all-pro benchrest shooter, it might have value, but to the rest of us, I kind of think it's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. I know that punched type flash holes sometimes have a burr when new, but I once made a point of checking a whole bunch that had not been deburred to begin with after they had gone through 1 loading/firing. I found no burrs. I looked at a bunch out of the same lot before loading, some had burrs. Point is, my observation is that burr or no burr, they are the same (no burr) after one loading.
Maj Dad
Member
I think it's kind of like primer pocket cleaning.
If you use a progressive press, you don't because of the process. Back in the 50's & 60's most of the NRA Master CF Pistol guys did not clean them. Others are pretty anal about it and the old adage "half the fun is getting there" may apply. I clean my rifle pockets, especially the autoloaders. High primers can cause untoward events - but the others mostly out of habit since I do the autoloader stuff. I am not aware (that's fairly meaningless ;0) of any published data relative to cleaned versus uncleaned in accuracy, consistentcy, etc., same for flash hole deburring. I am also positive that the bench rest guys will swear by it, so if you debur, you're not hurting anything (assuming you don't drill through the web, as you said). Primum non nocere - First, do no harm. After that, it's the journey
If you use a progressive press, you don't because of the process. Back in the 50's & 60's most of the NRA Master CF Pistol guys did not clean them. Others are pretty anal about it and the old adage "half the fun is getting there" may apply. I clean my rifle pockets, especially the autoloaders. High primers can cause untoward events - but the others mostly out of habit since I do the autoloader stuff. I am not aware (that's fairly meaningless ;0) of any published data relative to cleaned versus uncleaned in accuracy, consistentcy, etc., same for flash hole deburring. I am also positive that the bench rest guys will swear by it, so if you debur, you're not hurting anything (assuming you don't drill through the web, as you said). Primum non nocere - First, do no harm. After that, it's the journey
moooose102
Member
there is a difference between just deburring the flash hole, and uniforming it. for just deburring, you can use a drill bit, but if you want all of them the same, then you need to use the stop.
NoAlibi
Member
A little more anal than Maj Dad
Maj Dad:
You are absolutely correct about the problems caused by high primers in autoloaders if you want to increase reliability and reduce the possibility of slamfires - one misfire or slamfire in a critical situation is too much.
So here comes the anal part: I don't clean primer pockets; I true them up. The cutter is precisely set, so if I don't see some material removed from the bottom of the pocket the case gets tossed. This rarely happens, but since it at least gives me a warm fuzzy feeling and does no harm - I'll take the journey.
PS - I don't do this to my practice or plinking ammo. I'm not THAT anal!
Maj Dad:
You are absolutely correct about the problems caused by high primers in autoloaders if you want to increase reliability and reduce the possibility of slamfires - one misfire or slamfire in a critical situation is too much.
So here comes the anal part: I don't clean primer pockets; I true them up. The cutter is precisely set, so if I don't see some material removed from the bottom of the pocket the case gets tossed. This rarely happens, but since it at least gives me a warm fuzzy feeling and does no harm - I'll take the journey.
PS - I don't do this to my practice or plinking ammo. I'm not THAT anal!
ForneyRider
Member
I use Redding flash hole debur and primer pocket uniformer and cleaners.
The Redding debur tool will bottom out and it takes quite a bit out of some brass and not others. I use this with a Lee brass collet in my drill. This is used with Rem/Win/ and other mixed military brass. The last set of Winchester 308 Win brass barely removed any material. The LC and Remington 223 brass had the most material removed.
After trimming, chamfering and deburring necks, I set the depth of the Redding tool. There is a set screw in the side of the pilot.
The Nosler brass is already fully prepped (and weight sorted). Lapua drills their brass, instead of punching it, so no debur is needed on the flash hole. Norma may as well, but it has been a while since I've used their brass.
Usually, the Redding primer pocket uniformer just takes out the dirt, and leaves a small scratch around outside of the bottom. Attached to a drill, it is plenty fast.
The Redding debur tool will bottom out and it takes quite a bit out of some brass and not others. I use this with a Lee brass collet in my drill. This is used with Rem/Win/ and other mixed military brass. The last set of Winchester 308 Win brass barely removed any material. The LC and Remington 223 brass had the most material removed.
After trimming, chamfering and deburring necks, I set the depth of the Redding tool. There is a set screw in the side of the pilot.
The Nosler brass is already fully prepped (and weight sorted). Lapua drills their brass, instead of punching it, so no debur is needed on the flash hole. Norma may as well, but it has been a while since I've used their brass.
Usually, the Redding primer pocket uniformer just takes out the dirt, and leaves a small scratch around outside of the bottom. Attached to a drill, it is plenty fast.
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