The vast majority of my pistol shooting is rimfire. I do get on average 200-300 rounds of centerfire downrange per month (mostly 9mm and 38). I guess I rank myself somewhere between a novice to an intermediate centerfire shooter. I, like many, suffer from the flinch reflex which causes many of my shots to hit a bit lower than point of aim. Its not as though I'm afraid of the savage recoil of a 9mm, it just seems to happen. I've tried randomly inserting snap caps into my magazines which has helped some but almost everytime I hear that unexpected click on the snap cap the muzzle gets flinched downward a bit. Drives me crazy! I seem to be having a heck of a time finding the happy place between flinching and limp wristing. It has to be there somewhere! Any suggestions from you guys who have overcome this technique problem?
Flinching
- Thread starter marb4
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Dry fire and dry fire often, and not just a the range. Setup a target on your ceiling over your bed and dry fire at that, that should help your muscle memory. Please remember to do so safely and to talk your way through unloading your pistol to dry fireing, then when its time to reload your pistol put it back in its holster.
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
I'd suggest a heavy regimen of dry-fire practice and probably the "empty case on the front sight" drill, too. You have to do enough reps without the flinch to make correct trigger control and follow-through your default mode. Get used to seeing the front sight remain directly on the target before the break, while the hammer is falling, and after the hammer falls, too. The recoil motion becomes irrelevant to your process.
Red Cent
Member
Try shooting the handgun from sandbags. This will relax the arms and hands. At first, don't use a target. Do not strain the sysstem by trying to hit a target. Concentrate on the pull. Do some dryfiring from a sitting and sandbag position at home. Again, no target. When set up at home, close your eyes and feel the trigger. When you start to apply the pressure, you want the trigger break to surprise you. Persist.
BTW: A popular practice for archers learning a release or practicing their target archery regimen is to stand 10 feet from a target, take the stance, draw, and close the eyes. From that position the archer is not fighting any type of target panic. Target panic is real in archery or firearms.
BTW: A popular practice for archers learning a release or practicing their target archery regimen is to stand 10 feet from a target, take the stance, draw, and close the eyes. From that position the archer is not fighting any type of target panic. Target panic is real in archery or firearms.
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BCRider
Member
If you're doing this with center fire SO regularly then likely you're doing it at least a little with your rimfire guns as well. Likely you need to start by concentrating on achieving a stable hold with arms and hands where ONLY the trigger finger moves. Gripping too hard or not hard enough can make it difficult to achieve the proper level of trigger finger disassociation with the rest of your grip. So that's where you should work first.
And speaking of basics look at these and review your own basic hand grip method. I found these were by far the best two free sources of hints for handgun grip for semi autos.
An excellent description of the two handed thumbs forward semi auto pistol grip. This write up ties in well with the next link.
http://www.handgunsmag.com/tactics_training/combatg_100306/
Todd Jarret in a trailer for a video on pistol gripping and shooting. Lots of good hints.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysa50-plo48
You should start with the dry firing with an empty case perched on the barrel. It's a great way to ensure that your trigger finger is the ONLY thing that is moving. With some sort of DA hammer you should be able to pull the trigger 10 or more times in a row without the empty casing falling off. Keep it up until you can.
How you pull the trigger makes a big difference too. I like to tell first timers that you don't pull the trigger. You build finger pressure on it until it has moved fully to the rear of the frame. Note I didn't say "until it fires". You want to "Zen" your way past the point of firing and concentrate on a smooth and even building of pressure until the trigger has moved as far as it's going to move. The gun will drop the hammer somewhere along the way. And when it happens it should be a surprise. Pulling only to the firing point is setting yourself up for more flinching because you're training yourself to expect it. You want to work on losing that sense of expectation. To replace it you want to narrow your view to the sight picture and the building of pressure on the trigger with the muscles for that one finger being the ONLY muscles in action. Nothing more, nothing less. This last bit you can try out by holding a stick or other handgun grip shaped object and look at your forearms and hands while making trigger pulling motions. Any tendon action on the backs of your hands is cause for failure and needs to be addressed. The grip you hold the gun with should be that of a firm but friendly handshake. Don't try to mash it.
After all this dry firing and case balancing and hand therapy take a .22 and a center fire with you to the range. Get into the flow of all you've practiced with the .22. By now you should be noticing tighter groups due to the grip and trigger finger isolation drills. When you're firmly into the whole flow smoothly transition to the center fire gun and work at maintaining the isolation from the recoil while concentrating on the sight picture and trigger pull. When you notice you're getting back some flinch switch back to the .22. Do NOT switch back to the center fire until you get back the sense of isolation from the recoil. Also for the time being maybe just load 5 or 6 rounds of center fire so you don't end up shooting to "flinch disaster" levels again.
When you get it right you'll find that your CF groups are as tight as your rimfire groups. Repeat these .22 therapy sessions as required until you and flinch part ways. Just be aware that "Flinch" is like a bad penny and can turn up again. But some .22 Therapy can send him back to the depths whenever it's needed.
And speaking of basics look at these and review your own basic hand grip method. I found these were by far the best two free sources of hints for handgun grip for semi autos.
An excellent description of the two handed thumbs forward semi auto pistol grip. This write up ties in well with the next link.
http://www.handgunsmag.com/tactics_training/combatg_100306/
Todd Jarret in a trailer for a video on pistol gripping and shooting. Lots of good hints.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysa50-plo48
You should start with the dry firing with an empty case perched on the barrel. It's a great way to ensure that your trigger finger is the ONLY thing that is moving. With some sort of DA hammer you should be able to pull the trigger 10 or more times in a row without the empty casing falling off. Keep it up until you can.
How you pull the trigger makes a big difference too. I like to tell first timers that you don't pull the trigger. You build finger pressure on it until it has moved fully to the rear of the frame. Note I didn't say "until it fires". You want to "Zen" your way past the point of firing and concentrate on a smooth and even building of pressure until the trigger has moved as far as it's going to move. The gun will drop the hammer somewhere along the way. And when it happens it should be a surprise. Pulling only to the firing point is setting yourself up for more flinching because you're training yourself to expect it. You want to work on losing that sense of expectation. To replace it you want to narrow your view to the sight picture and the building of pressure on the trigger with the muscles for that one finger being the ONLY muscles in action. Nothing more, nothing less. This last bit you can try out by holding a stick or other handgun grip shaped object and look at your forearms and hands while making trigger pulling motions. Any tendon action on the backs of your hands is cause for failure and needs to be addressed. The grip you hold the gun with should be that of a firm but friendly handshake. Don't try to mash it.
After all this dry firing and case balancing and hand therapy take a .22 and a center fire with you to the range. Get into the flow of all you've practiced with the .22. By now you should be noticing tighter groups due to the grip and trigger finger isolation drills. When you're firmly into the whole flow smoothly transition to the center fire gun and work at maintaining the isolation from the recoil while concentrating on the sight picture and trigger pull. When you notice you're getting back some flinch switch back to the .22. Do NOT switch back to the center fire until you get back the sense of isolation from the recoil. Also for the time being maybe just load 5 or 6 rounds of center fire so you don't end up shooting to "flinch disaster" levels again.
When you get it right you'll find that your CF groups are as tight as your rimfire groups. Repeat these .22 therapy sessions as required until you and flinch part ways. Just be aware that "Flinch" is like a bad penny and can turn up again. But some .22 Therapy can send him back to the depths whenever it's needed.
Can you get a revolver to use for a while? Load 2 or 3 unevenly space in the cylinder and shoot. Notice the flinch, dry fire until it is gone. Try again. You can do the same with an auto w/snap caps but I think more snap caps than real rounds and having some else load the magazines works best.
As the others have said, you need to get your mind to allow good trigger control, it takes practice. After one can dry fire without flinching, I find a mix of live and dummy (more dummy than live) works the best for most. I'd start with a .22 revolver if you can borrow one. dvnv
As the others have said, you need to get your mind to allow good trigger control, it takes practice. After one can dry fire without flinching, I find a mix of live and dummy (more dummy than live) works the best for most. I'd start with a .22 revolver if you can borrow one. dvnv
stonecutter2
Member
A good reminder to be safe when dry firing.
No "one more trigger pull..." or anything - be absolutely sure the weapon is unloaded before starting to dry fire, then reload it and put it away/holster safely.
I do the "talk your way through it" approach. I say outloud "gun is unloaded." Then I check a couple more times and stick my finger in the chamber. When dry fire is over, I reload and say "gun is loaded" then put it away.
Well, you’re jerking the trigger. That’s obvious. You don't need us to tell you that.
A lot of the people I see at the range shoot this way: They line up the sights, close both eyes and yank the trigger. You don't seem to be doing that, or not often, anyway.
Most people shoot this way: They line up the sights and start pulling the trigger. When the sights move a little bit, they stop pulling and re-align the sights. This continues until they get tired and their eyes get fuzzy or they start running out of air. Then, the next time the sights look pretty good, they yank the trigger. Bad shot.
Instead, line up the sights and start pulling the trigger. Pull it straight back with steady pressure and don’t stop. Concentrate on watching the sights and holding them somewhere near the center of the target. Don’t blink.
When the shot breaks, it should be a surprise and you should have a picture in your mind of what the sights looked like on the target. Hold onto that picture. That’s called “calling the shot”. Now take a look at the target. Did the shot hit where you called it?
You need to try to hold the sights in alignment even after the shot breaks. You won’t be able to, but you should try. That’s called “follow-through”.
When you shoot this way, the sights might wander a little bit, but the shot should still be pretty good. The more you work on your technique the better your groups will be.
At home, set up a target and dry-fire at it. Watch your sights and call your shots. Keep score. Be honest with yourself and write down your scores. With practice, you’ll be able to speed up your trigger pull to a degree that’ll amaze you.
Example: When I was practicing for the S&W Steel Challenge Nationals with my Ruger 22/45, I could react to the buzzer, raise the gun from its “depressed pistol’ position, line up the sights, fire and hit an 8” plate at 12 yds in 0.5 – 0.6 seconds. Assuming I have the usual quarter-second reaction time and it’s taking me 0.15 – 0.2 sec to get the gun up and the sights aligned, how much time is left for me to pull the trigger? No much. But I can assure you that I’m squeezing the trigger. It’s a fast squeeze, but it’s controlled. And there are plenty of people who are faster than I am!!
You have to master trigger control, follow-through and calling your shots if you expect to become a good pistol shot.
A lot of the people I see at the range shoot this way: They line up the sights, close both eyes and yank the trigger. You don't seem to be doing that, or not often, anyway.
Most people shoot this way: They line up the sights and start pulling the trigger. When the sights move a little bit, they stop pulling and re-align the sights. This continues until they get tired and their eyes get fuzzy or they start running out of air. Then, the next time the sights look pretty good, they yank the trigger. Bad shot.
Instead, line up the sights and start pulling the trigger. Pull it straight back with steady pressure and don’t stop. Concentrate on watching the sights and holding them somewhere near the center of the target. Don’t blink.
When the shot breaks, it should be a surprise and you should have a picture in your mind of what the sights looked like on the target. Hold onto that picture. That’s called “calling the shot”. Now take a look at the target. Did the shot hit where you called it?
You need to try to hold the sights in alignment even after the shot breaks. You won’t be able to, but you should try. That’s called “follow-through”.
When you shoot this way, the sights might wander a little bit, but the shot should still be pretty good. The more you work on your technique the better your groups will be.
At home, set up a target and dry-fire at it. Watch your sights and call your shots. Keep score. Be honest with yourself and write down your scores. With practice, you’ll be able to speed up your trigger pull to a degree that’ll amaze you.
Example: When I was practicing for the S&W Steel Challenge Nationals with my Ruger 22/45, I could react to the buzzer, raise the gun from its “depressed pistol’ position, line up the sights, fire and hit an 8” plate at 12 yds in 0.5 – 0.6 seconds. Assuming I have the usual quarter-second reaction time and it’s taking me 0.15 – 0.2 sec to get the gun up and the sights aligned, how much time is left for me to pull the trigger? No much. But I can assure you that I’m squeezing the trigger. It’s a fast squeeze, but it’s controlled. And there are plenty of people who are faster than I am!!
You have to master trigger control, follow-through and calling your shots if you expect to become a good pistol shot.
sounds like the gun is "owning" you. you need to "own" the gun at all times. first, your stance must always be weight forward. weight always on the balls of the feet. you cannot have a stable shooting platform when you are always rocking back and forth on your heels.
second, grip your gun firmly, at a minimum (even your 22 rimfires). anything less and you will get an inconsistent recoil and the possibility of the dredded limp-wrist syndrome.
third, make yourself a statue before during and especially after the shot. the only thing that you are to move is your trigger finger. let the gun do the rest of the moving. with good ammo, the gun will recoil the same every time IF YOU LET IT!
oh, and what these guys said about trigger control, etc.
don't let the gun own you. you own the gun.
murf
second, grip your gun firmly, at a minimum (even your 22 rimfires). anything less and you will get an inconsistent recoil and the possibility of the dredded limp-wrist syndrome.
third, make yourself a statue before during and especially after the shot. the only thing that you are to move is your trigger finger. let the gun do the rest of the moving. with good ammo, the gun will recoil the same every time IF YOU LET IT!
oh, and what these guys said about trigger control, etc.
don't let the gun own you. you own the gun.
murf
Thanks for the suggestions, everyone. I have this problem as well and it hurts my accuracy a fair bit. I think it was actually less of a problem when I was shooting only .45 because I just got used to the recoil, but sadly I can't afford to keep up with that habit.
Thanks for all the input so far. Some great suggestions. Here are some thoughts after reading all the posts...
- I dry fire practice some (with snap caps) but will do more. Right now I can dry fire while holding the pistol very steady (virtually no movement) which makes me think my issue is more of a flinch as opposed to jerking the trigger (though that may still be occuring). Like my body is reacting to counter the force (recoil) it knows is coming.
- Interesting that this issue is not nearly as pronounced when using my revolver (Ruger GP100) in SA as opposed to auto-loaders. My thought is that between each shot I have to cock the hammer and realign my sights on target. I forces me to slow down, think, and breath.
- I'm pretty good with rimfire pistols. However I have noticed that when a cheap bulk round fails to fire I sometimes still see a slight flinch. GRRR! :banghead:
I enjoy shooting quite a bit. I tell my wife that its my "golf". I'll have a lot of fun taking many of these suggestions and working to improve.
- I dry fire practice some (with snap caps) but will do more. Right now I can dry fire while holding the pistol very steady (virtually no movement) which makes me think my issue is more of a flinch as opposed to jerking the trigger (though that may still be occuring). Like my body is reacting to counter the force (recoil) it knows is coming.
- Interesting that this issue is not nearly as pronounced when using my revolver (Ruger GP100) in SA as opposed to auto-loaders. My thought is that between each shot I have to cock the hammer and realign my sights on target. I forces me to slow down, think, and breath.
- I'm pretty good with rimfire pistols. However I have noticed that when a cheap bulk round fails to fire I sometimes still see a slight flinch. GRRR! :banghead:
I enjoy shooting quite a bit. I tell my wife that its my "golf". I'll have a lot of fun taking many of these suggestions and working to improve.
ny32182
Member
I think your shooting goals will have a lot to do with the kind of advice you need to hear. Are you trying to shoot slowfire bullseye groups, or are you shooting for "practical accuracy" (at, say, an 8" target), rapidly? For perspective, I do the latter.
What you have to do to make the bullet hit the target is see the target, put the sights on the target, and pull the trigger without disturbing the sight alignment badly enough to miss whatever target you are shooting at. If the bullet doesn't hit the target, you didn't accomplish one of these three things, even if you think you did.
Different thought processes work for different people I guess, but personally I've always been completely dumbfounded by some of the very common advice on how to accomplish the above. Just some examples:
1) "Balance a (coin, case, whatever) on the muzzle and pull the trigger." I'll be the first to tell you I couldn't balance any solid object on the muzzle, with or without a trigger pull.
2) "Be surprised by the trigger break". After about 10 pulls of a new trigger, never mind 10,000, I have a pretty good idea of where the trigger breaks, and there are few surprises going forward. I like to keep surprises to a minimum.
3) "You are pushing/slapping/jerking/punching/caressing/whatever else" people are said to be doing to a trigger to knock the sights out of alignment during the trigger pull. I sometimes wonder if the verb of the day even means anything to the person dispensing the advice. I assume these are all ways of getting at the same concept; pull the trigger without moving the gun. I sometimes wonder if we sat around coming up with the most complicated ways possible to articulate this.
Dryfire has been excellent for me recently, mostly for operations that don't actually involve a bang, such as drawing, reloading, indexing/seeing the sights, etc. But also, you can see the "follow through" of your trigger pull that is interrupted by recoil when ammo is present. That is, if you are regularly doing something that moves the gun as part of your current trigger pull mechanics, the sights will tell the tale during dryfire. We all "flinch", or "anticipate recoil" to some degree. Usually the faster we are shooting the worse it gets. But if your fundamental mechanics are sound, you should be able to cancel this out by taking as much time as you need to execute a perfect trigger pull in slowfire and shoot a tight group. If you can't do that, there is something about your trigger pull that is disturbing the gun/sights. If you can, it is just a matter of getting the proccess sped up after that, if that is your goal, and there isn't much besides practice that will do that.
I also try to use a very firm grip with my support hand. Not only does this help control muzzle rise and keep the gun from moving in your hand, it has the effect (for me at least) of partially decoupling the control of the gun from the hand that is pulling the trigger. I personally believe that most of our "flinching" comes from the trigger pulling hand, and thus the more control we can transfer away from this hand, the less "flinch" will become a factor. This is a personal observation that you may or may not concur with over time.
What you have to do to make the bullet hit the target is see the target, put the sights on the target, and pull the trigger without disturbing the sight alignment badly enough to miss whatever target you are shooting at. If the bullet doesn't hit the target, you didn't accomplish one of these three things, even if you think you did.
Different thought processes work for different people I guess, but personally I've always been completely dumbfounded by some of the very common advice on how to accomplish the above. Just some examples:
1) "Balance a (coin, case, whatever) on the muzzle and pull the trigger." I'll be the first to tell you I couldn't balance any solid object on the muzzle, with or without a trigger pull.
2) "Be surprised by the trigger break". After about 10 pulls of a new trigger, never mind 10,000, I have a pretty good idea of where the trigger breaks, and there are few surprises going forward. I like to keep surprises to a minimum.
3) "You are pushing/slapping/jerking/punching/caressing/whatever else" people are said to be doing to a trigger to knock the sights out of alignment during the trigger pull. I sometimes wonder if the verb of the day even means anything to the person dispensing the advice. I assume these are all ways of getting at the same concept; pull the trigger without moving the gun. I sometimes wonder if we sat around coming up with the most complicated ways possible to articulate this.
Dryfire has been excellent for me recently, mostly for operations that don't actually involve a bang, such as drawing, reloading, indexing/seeing the sights, etc. But also, you can see the "follow through" of your trigger pull that is interrupted by recoil when ammo is present. That is, if you are regularly doing something that moves the gun as part of your current trigger pull mechanics, the sights will tell the tale during dryfire. We all "flinch", or "anticipate recoil" to some degree. Usually the faster we are shooting the worse it gets. But if your fundamental mechanics are sound, you should be able to cancel this out by taking as much time as you need to execute a perfect trigger pull in slowfire and shoot a tight group. If you can't do that, there is something about your trigger pull that is disturbing the gun/sights. If you can, it is just a matter of getting the proccess sped up after that, if that is your goal, and there isn't much besides practice that will do that.
I also try to use a very firm grip with my support hand. Not only does this help control muzzle rise and keep the gun from moving in your hand, it has the effect (for me at least) of partially decoupling the control of the gun from the hand that is pulling the trigger. I personally believe that most of our "flinching" comes from the trigger pulling hand, and thus the more control we can transfer away from this hand, the less "flinch" will become a factor. This is a personal observation that you may or may not concur with over time.
I'm sure glad I am not the only one that recommends dry fire, balancing a cartridge on a Glock(another thread) and balancing a penny across the front sight. Dry fire plus learning grip, slightly more with the weak hand using both, keeping the thumb straight with one hand. I mentioned this before, got shot down and backed off. I know my methods work, don't teach anymore but over 50+yrs I think I've helped make some decent shooters.
BCRider
Member
Marb4 said:
That's the key. You'll want to get over this aspect as you'll never time it and win at fighting the gun this way. My whole description of "disassociating your self from the recoil" as well as many of the posts from the others regarding "follow through" and other descriptions is about avoiding this same issue.
That's also why I like the dry fire backed up with lots of .22 time. Because the .22 has SOME recoil you can transition your brain from working with NO recoil with the dry firing to some recoil with the .22 and once you achieve the proper disassociation and follow through with the .22 you can move on to the center fire.
Typically, from my own experience, at first you won't even make it more than half way through a mag of center fire before the flinch is back. So that's why I suggested no more than 5 or 6 rounds of center fire loaded at first. Switch back to a mag or more of .22 to settle yourself back into the right state of mind, trigger control and carry through. Then once you're "Zen'ed in" again then go back to the center fire.
The advice to try your best to mimic a statue other than the trigger finger is also a good description of it.
Note that ALL of us are basically saying the same thing. You CAN'T win at anticipating the firing. But you CAN support the gun the same way each time if you learn to JUST HOLD IT STEADY. The rest is all in your head to learn to not anticipate or even care about the coming recoil.
Part of this is learning your grip and finding the one that allows supporting the gun without the trigger finger movement affecting the rest of your grip. Some will be in your stance and how you balance yourself.
Similar to the others I like my weight on the balls of my feet with just a little stabilizing support at my heels. I also crouch slightly at the knees and waist and hold my arms out with elbows not quite locked and slightly rotated outwards. From this description I'm obviously using the isosocles triangle stance.
mstreddy
Member
Quote:
- Interesting that this issue is not nearly as pronounced when using my revolver (Ruger GP100) in SA as opposed to auto-loaders. My thought is that between each shot I have to cock the hammer and realign my sights on target. I forces me to slow down, think, and breath.
What may be happening as well is that you are focusing (tracking) on the hammer as it comes back in DA and allowing it to distract your hold.
Either way, dry fire, dry fire, dry fire. In the Revolver, the surprise empty chamber or two is great to continuously diagnose and troubleshoot the issue.
- Interesting that this issue is not nearly as pronounced when using my revolver (Ruger GP100) in SA as opposed to auto-loaders. My thought is that between each shot I have to cock the hammer and realign my sights on target. I forces me to slow down, think, and breath.
What may be happening as well is that you are focusing (tracking) on the hammer as it comes back in DA and allowing it to distract your hold.
Either way, dry fire, dry fire, dry fire. In the Revolver, the surprise empty chamber or two is great to continuously diagnose and troubleshoot the issue.
First of all thanks for all the info and advice. I appreciate the willingness of folks here to help each other out. So here's a quick update...
A few days ago, I took out my snub nose 38 to do a little practice. I chose this one because its a revolver and the snub nose seems to have more muzzle flip so I figured it would be a good one to practice with. What I would do is randomly load the cylinder with a mix of live rounds and spent cases. This way I never really knew how many or which ones would go "bang" and which would go "click" in each cylinder (5 shots). I noticed that after just a few reloads my flinch was considerably less to non existent. After about 50 rounds of doing this I was starting to get some of my best centerfire pistol groups ever. And this was with a 2 inch barrel! I was primarily concentrating on applying even increasing pressure on the trigger until the hammer fell without me intentionally "pulling" the trigger to make the gun fire. Doing this while focusing on the front sight really helped.
Yesterday I went out with my Beretta 92 and just focused on a smooth trigger pull (like mentioned above) and concentrating on the front sight. Best centerfire pistol outing ever. I was shooting pretty consistent 1 1/2 - 2 inch groups from 10 yards. (yeah and occasional flyer but very few) For some guys that may not be great but for me it was a tremendous improvement.
Like anything you want to improve at it takes practice, practice, practice. I appreciate all the tips here so that I can practice the right techniques instead of the wrong ones.
A few days ago, I took out my snub nose 38 to do a little practice. I chose this one because its a revolver and the snub nose seems to have more muzzle flip so I figured it would be a good one to practice with. What I would do is randomly load the cylinder with a mix of live rounds and spent cases. This way I never really knew how many or which ones would go "bang" and which would go "click" in each cylinder (5 shots). I noticed that after just a few reloads my flinch was considerably less to non existent. After about 50 rounds of doing this I was starting to get some of my best centerfire pistol groups ever. And this was with a 2 inch barrel! I was primarily concentrating on applying even increasing pressure on the trigger until the hammer fell without me intentionally "pulling" the trigger to make the gun fire. Doing this while focusing on the front sight really helped.
Yesterday I went out with my Beretta 92 and just focused on a smooth trigger pull (like mentioned above) and concentrating on the front sight. Best centerfire pistol outing ever. I was shooting pretty consistent 1 1/2 - 2 inch groups from 10 yards. (yeah and occasional flyer but very few) For some guys that may not be great but for me it was a tremendous improvement.
Like anything you want to improve at it takes practice, practice, practice. I appreciate all the tips here so that I can practice the right techniques instead of the wrong ones.
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BCRider
Member
Well done! And yeah, practice doesn't help at all if you're practicsing the wrong stuff. It just entrenchs the bad habits.
Harley Quinn
Member
I have seen good shooters get into flinching when shooting big boomers, then they go back to the 22 and attempt to get over it
Nerves are damaged and need to be retrained it seems
Nerves are damaged and need to be retrained it seems
BCRider
Member
Too much "hi test" coffee on the way to the range is never a good idea either...
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