I have used the GG&G MAD & A2 BUIS as well as the ARMS #40 model, all co-witnessed with an Aimpoint. My impressions follow.
GG&G MAD: The version I used had 4 aperatures, each on a different plane to mimic a setting on the elevation wheel found on the A2 rear-sight assembly. Although adequate, mine had the annoying habit of sponateously changing aperatures during movement. It also tended to fold-down at inopertune times. This sight was also slow to transition to in the event the optic went down.
GG&G A2: Of the three this was my favorite. It is very similar to a standard A2 rear sight, lacking only the elevation wheel; no provision to adjust your rear sight beyond 300 meters. Again, it tended to fold down at inopertune times and was slow to deploy.
(It is my understanding that GG&G has added a locking detent to their BUIS to prevent them from folding down by accident. Evidently other people shared my experience.)
ARMS #40: I liked this sight because it flipped up when you hit a release lever. Unfortunately, the lever was on the right side requiring you to use your firing hand to actuate it or reach in front of your face with you left to hit it. The windage adjustment is on the left side instead of the right which always caused some confusion when zeroing (Do I reverse my correction because the wheel is on the other side or did they account for that at the factory?) Additionally, they flat-topped the small aperature making it difficult to zero/shoot at distance. Finally, there is no provision to adjust your rear sight for extended ranges (beyond 300 meters).
Personally, I always found the co-witnessed BUIS's sight picture to be too busy. I also disliked the fact that the BUIS was relatively slow to get into action. Chances are, I would discover that my optic was not working when I went to shoot somebody. That's not the time to be folding sights up or flicking levers.
Currently, I am using a see-through mount on my carrying handle to mount my optic. It requires me to use a chin-weld vs. a cheek-weld which took a little getting used to. The sight offset at close range is slightly greater which also took some getting used to. However, if my optic goes down, I need only drop my head an inch or so and I am on my iron sights, with no busy sight picture. I zero my optic at 200 meters and my irons at 300 meters.
Hope this helps.