Floating vs shimming/corking barrel

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ChronoCube

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I've seen online two ways of accurizing a rifle with adjustments to the barrel. One is to float it. The other is to put it in tight contact with the barrel by putting a layer of cork or other material, like here: http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu63.htm

The floating method seems pretty common and well-established. What about the corking method? How well does it work? Does it work by floating the barrel as well?
 
The corking thing is new to me. I've always free-floated and then put a little shim up front with minimal pressure between the forearm and barrel, merely to act as a vibration damper.

Seems to me that a tight fit would cause an increase in the pressure of the forearm against the barrel as it heats up, causing a vertical string.
 
Corking is very common, although the material may change a lot. Not to long ago the majority of factory rifles came with a pressure pad (raised piece of wood) to apply pressure near the tip of the stock, it was cheaper than doing a good inletting and free floating job.

Another option is to full length bed. I have a .300 Winnie that just didn't want to shoot all that well free floated so we bedded the full length of the stock.
 
Corking may well be popular with old military rifles. I've never messed with them beyond a few sporterized versions back around 1950.

But in 30 years of gunshow tables and a heckuva lot of disassembly for cleaning of commercial rifles I took as trade-ins, I've never seen any sort of insert of that type. About all I ever saw in a forearm channel was varnish bubbles...
 
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