Fluff & Buff Warning - Internet Gunsmithing

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mnrivrat

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It arrived this week . A purchase made off an internet gun auction, that I had a hard time passing on the buy-it-now price.

I had wanted one of the Wather P22 pistols for some time, and this one was listed at the right price ,at what always is the wrong time for my pocket book, but I purchased it anyway.

Now I had pondered ,before I pushed that keyboard button that commited me to the purchase, on why the price was as good as it was. A used gun, with what was indicated as having new springs, normal wear, and worked fine.

The price was about $50 to $75 cheaper than what I thought one should bring, and that can raise the hair on the back of my neck a little. I didn't just fall of the truck. I suspected that perhaps there might be some need for a little work on the pistol. Since I have been doing that type of work for a good many years now, I figured all would be OK unless something major was wrong, and all else I could deal with for the price.

A number of days past the time when I figured my payment had arrived I still had not heard from the seller. I had asked to be contacted as soon as the payment arrived and given then a potential shipping date. Since I heard nothing for several days past the time the payment should have arrived a e-mail was sent to get an update on the transaction.

A couple hours later a return e-mail gave me a tracking number along with a short statement that some people complain about this model being ammo fussy, but this one always worked well with Remington brand. This and a link to a web site that had something akin to the P22 Bible listed on it, and had instructions on takedown, and apparently also had some fluff and buff data on how to improve the performance of this pistol. ( another clue, and some more hair standing at attention )

I received the pistol at my local shop on Wendsday and did the paperwork. The pistol looked OK ,and no apparent damage was present. Used, but finish was good, and nothing apparent visualy to indicated a problem. So now the time has come to check out the function, and I grabbed a box of ammo and headed to the range at the shop.

This of course showed me in short order what I suspected, and the gun worked fairly well, but only in double action. When fired the hammer would follow the slide back to its home, and therefore no single action mode was present. It didn't take long to find the probem . I cocked the hammer manualy and it locked back without a problem, I forwarded the hammer to the fired position and manualy ran the slide back to cock the hammer in the cycle mode and the slide would not push the hammer far enough down to catch the sear notch.

The problem - simply was that someone ground material off the contour of the hammer in an attempt to ease the pressure between the slide and the hammer during cycling. If done correctly this can in fact help make the gun function better with ammo that has less energy to operate the slide. It would, if done properly, help make the pistol less ammo fussy . Something this Walther is noted for being ,if I believe some of the internet chatter regarding this model.

My point here ! I have seen a number of forums dedicated to specific firearms in which the guru of the board gives fluff and buff advise to the flock of those members who come to learn more about their firearm. To them it always sounds like good advise to do some modifications that will help improve their guns performance. For those of you tempted to follow the advise given on these forums, a WARNING ! Approach fluff and buff advise with caution. It you are modifying something on your gun, you should understand exactly why you are doing so. You should also understand why it works, and how far you can go with it before it becomes a non-desireable modification. In other words, understand the mechanics of what you are doing and how it effects the function of your firearm BEFORE you get out that dremel tool and start grinding or polishing.

A quick e-mail to the seller on this particular gun telling him what was wrong with it brought a denial of knowledge that is was malfunctioning. I'm not at all sure how one misses the fact that your auto pistol is now working in double action only, but I suspect he indeed followed some fluff and buff advise and took it to the point of causing malfuntion - then decided to sell it quick by putting a lower than average price on the gun.

The second lesson here is to ask a lot of questions of the seller prior to bidding and buying guns on the internet. Make sure you can return the gun if there is a major problem that is not indicated in the sellers discription. Not everyone is honest, and up front with defects.

Actualy, I didn't ask to return this Walther, or for any compensation off the price. I would have been within reason to do so, but I can repair this particular gun myself ,and still have a pistol at a reasonable price. Others, who have to take something like this to a gunsmith, or send it back to Walther for repair ,would not turn out very well.

My intention here : Just a friendly warning to my fellow members to use caution as indicated.
 
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Thank you for this post. I used to buy guns online, but after buying a 1022 that had jbweld on the hammer... well I learned that paying a little more for a gun you can see and handle can be worth it.

Anyone else reading this thread. DONT buy a converted saiga from an auction. There's been many scams out there of people "converting" a saiga and selling it for $$$, when in fact they either screwed up the conversion OR didn't use correct parts for compliancy.
 
What do you mean by "fluff and buff?" I've never heard or read that phrase before.

Good advice though. I worked with a gunsmith one time who taught me how to function check a 1911, beginning with racking slides and cocking hammers, and checking for hammer follow (the forerunner to full auto!). When loading the pistol, he always thrusts his hand out toward the backstop just in case the sear is a little light.
 
You said you can fix it yourself, but maybe you could email Walther asking if they can send you a replacement hammer. That might be better than anything you would do yourself.
 
A true fluff & buff shouldn't be grinding any pieces off, just minor sanding/polishing. The point is to basically accelerate normal break-in "wear" and smooth out operations, and/or to get rid of manufacturing flash plastic guns. You shouldn't be trying to re-contour anything, just smoothing out and polishing. I do a F&B to all my guns out of the box. The action is noticeably smoother usually.
 
Only time a Fluff and Buff should include a dremel is when you are using the soft felt polishing applicator to get some shine, and even then with sparing application.
 
What do you mean by "fluff and buff?" I've never heard or read that phrase before.

As mentioned, the term in general is used for smoothing and polishing rough spots on a new gun. Some also believe it to include modifications such as trimming spring length, changing springs, changing contours, etc. All these things have a place in enhancing the performance of a firearm IF they are done properly. If not, they can mess it up in all sorts of ways, including rendering a firearm into a paperweight.

You said you can fix it yourself, but maybe you could email Walther asking if they can send you a replacement hammer. That might be better than anything you would do yourself.

That is in fact my first option and the best one. Sometimes however the company will restrict certain parts to factory fit only, and some to warranty station fit only. If that happens here I have a professional welder friend who can build up the top of the hammer and I will re-cut and reshape it back to a usable part. Re-tempering may also be needed if that happens, but I can handle that as well.

The disassembly of this gun down to pulling the hammer however is not a job for most forum members to attempt. It involves much more than field stripping the gun.
 
What do you mean by "fluff and buff?" I've never heard or read that phrase before.

It's most often used with Kel-Tecs, which seem to benefit from a little user-sourced polishing.

Many people like to dink around with any gun they get their hands on, and they don't seem to be happy with minor simple things, like grip changes. No, if they aren't removing metal somewhere, they aren't happy. Those folks need to have warning signs on them.
 
Fluff and Buff

I must say that I have never been tempted to go after any firearm I own with anything harder than a felt point or more abrasive than red rouge and even then that was only the barrel feed ramp and the top front face of the magazines of my Browning High Power. I've never even sanded a stock! The thought of attacking a perfectly good Walther with a grinding wheel makes me a little shpilkas (Yiddish for pins and needles).

Russ
 
This is one of the reasons I have not posted on another forum on how to slick up the internals of a S&W revolver. Someone would do more than just smoothing, and then attempt to offload the blame and responsibility onto me.

Gunsmithing is one thing you cannot rush and get good results. If you rush through the job, it's going to show. I think most people are capable, they just get in too big of a hurry or don't know what the proper tool is.

An example-- I've seen several people recommend using files :what: on hammer and sear engagement surfaces.
 
The slide is zinc but the hammer is steel but only case hardened steel.If you go to rimfire central and go into the the walther section and search for "test gun-post#3B" you will find pictures of just how little needed to be removed.I never checked out the P22 bible but it should have stated how little needed to be removed and when they gathered all that info from that forum for the bible they should have used the pictures also,I would not have minded:uhoh:
 
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