I was looking at this link, hxxp://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/prep.htm, I removed the (tt, in Http), so the link isn't live, as per forum regs. It shows and explains how to do a 'fluff and buff', on a new pistol, prior to using it, or it can be done at any time if needed. I haven't done it on my keltec, PF-9 as it still is virgin in the box. Is this something that is more common than I assumed, having polished a few feed ramps and done some minor repairs, installing sights, and the like, in my day, should the average guy attempt to use 400-600 grain sandpaper on a pistol. I understand that this may be the equivelant of shooting a couple hundred rounds to "break in" a new weapon, Is it easy to feel how much is enough, my concern is overdoing it. And what pitfalls can those who have done this routine on their pistols suggest ahead of time. Thanks, the term made me laugh, I must admit.
Do you do a "Fluff and Buff", on new pistols
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wyocarp
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I fluff and buff every gun I buy. I try to do so as soon as possible. Just the other week I bought a Ruger LCP and the gun store and I wondered about if the magazine from the Keltec would feed in the Ruger LCP since it did fit. The gun store person was shocked when I called them back within 30 minutes saying that I had put about 50 rounds throught he LCP with the Keltec magazine. That's how I fluff and buff, and I try to never let more than a couple of hours go by between the purchase and the fluff and buff treatment.
chris in va
Member
The only time I've done it is on my P11. It wasn't having a problem, I just did it as a precaution and...found the work interesting. Didn't use sandpaper, just my Dremel.
See, I'm not picky about how a gun looks per se. If the internals are rough, it doesn't bother me as long as the gun is 100% functional and shoots straight. Heck you should see what my Saiga looks like inside. But it works.
The P11 did have some 'less than refined' spots on the slide, and I just buffed the burrs out for the heck of it. Otherwise just shooting a few hundred 9mm's would smooth it out, but I'm not rich.
See, I'm not picky about how a gun looks per se. If the internals are rough, it doesn't bother me as long as the gun is 100% functional and shoots straight. Heck you should see what my Saiga looks like inside. But it works.
The P11 did have some 'less than refined' spots on the slide, and I just buffed the burrs out for the heck of it. Otherwise just shooting a few hundred 9mm's would smooth it out, but I'm not rich.
mainmech48
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Nope. I don't do anything but clean and lube until at least 500 rds.
If there are functional issues, that's what warranties are for. If there aren't, it takes at least that much shooting for me to determine what exactly I want or need to "improve".
IMO, most "fluff 'n' buff" and even professional action jobs are primarily just applying artificial "wear" to surfaces. It generally takes a good bit of shooting for the spots which might actually benefit most from the attention to show up, so why not do that first?
"Tuning" an action is another matter that I prefer to leave to the pros. It's been my experience that getting it can be a whole lot more expensive than buying it.
If there are functional issues, that's what warranties are for. If there aren't, it takes at least that much shooting for me to determine what exactly I want or need to "improve".
IMO, most "fluff 'n' buff" and even professional action jobs are primarily just applying artificial "wear" to surfaces. It generally takes a good bit of shooting for the spots which might actually benefit most from the attention to show up, so why not do that first?
"Tuning" an action is another matter that I prefer to leave to the pros. It's been my experience that getting it can be a whole lot more expensive than buying it.
Car Knocker
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I subscribe to the "If it's not broke, don't fix it" school of thought. If the pistol is operating as it's supposed to, the chances are a fluff and buff done just for the heck of it may well affect reliability.
kentucky bucky
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Just my Keltec p11. It felt like an expensive gun after I slicked it down. It's never failed before or after the fluff & buff, but it felt like everything was "grinding" when I cycled it.
The Lone Haranguer
Member
I do not. And most certainly not before I've even shot them.
This F&B business reminds me of gunsmiths' "reliability packages." If the handgun is reliable to start with, it needs no additional work; if it is not reliable it is faulty and needs to be repaired.
This F&B business reminds me of gunsmiths' "reliability packages." If the handgun is reliable to start with, it needs no additional work; if it is not reliable it is faulty and needs to be repaired.
Nicky Santoro
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Lots of good opinions in this thread. That being said, opinions vary. I shoot mine before I do anything in case there are major faults necessitating a return. Fortunately, I've never had a pistol that required return. If the feed ramp requires attention, and typically they all do, IMO, I strip to the frame then buff it with 400 wrapped around a finger and wet with honing oil. After that I go to 800 then 1000. By that time it is a slick as snot on a door knob. After a little touch up blue and some CLP, I consider it done and good to go. As I said, opinions vary.
nj.piney
Member
most manuf. recommend a certain number of rounds for break in, this just shortens the break in time.its a lot cheaper.
fluff and buff
if in doubt, don't do it, but if you have any gun savvy, you aren't hurting one thing and IMO actually speeding up the process of gun reliability. Certainly polishing the feed ramp and barrel chamber is a postive thing to do. I did not touch my Ruger lcp for the first 500 rounds out of it andit was flaeless, then when I clenaed it, I did the ramp and chamber with a good polish.I just felt better from doing it. Most good guns don't require any f & B and will work out of the box and actualy get better as more rounds go out the barrel. the F & B just speeds up the process...
if in doubt, don't do it, but if you have any gun savvy, you aren't hurting one thing and IMO actually speeding up the process of gun reliability. Certainly polishing the feed ramp and barrel chamber is a postive thing to do. I did not touch my Ruger lcp for the first 500 rounds out of it andit was flaeless, then when I clenaed it, I did the ramp and chamber with a good polish.I just felt better from doing it. Most good guns don't require any f & B and will work out of the box and actualy get better as more rounds go out the barrel. the F & B just speeds up the process...
The P11 was my first "personal" handgun and after 75-100 rounds or so I F&B'd it. I'm glad I did, because I understand the workings a lot better now. It's pretty simple, and definitely made it smoother. Is it 100% necessary, no.
I would recommend shooting at least 50 rounds through it first, because that way you can tell where it really needs smoothing as it will wear.
I also sanded down the molds in the plastic and the grooves where the grip is melded together. That made it look and feel better, too.
It's a good exercise simply because you get acquainted with the gun, and--IMO--it helps ensure reliability. I really recommend using a "keyboard cleaner" canned air product, too.
I would recommend shooting at least 50 rounds through it first, because that way you can tell where it really needs smoothing as it will wear.
I also sanded down the molds in the plastic and the grooves where the grip is melded together. That made it look and feel better, too.
It's a good exercise simply because you get acquainted with the gun, and--IMO--it helps ensure reliability. I really recommend using a "keyboard cleaner" canned air product, too.
blackcash88
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Never needed to do any sort of fluff and buff until getting involved with a couple of POS Kel-Tec P3ATs. 
blackcash88
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PM one of the moderators. They can probably do it.
Big Boomer
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depends on the gun, for my 1911's yes, for the others no.
I do a full strip and lube and check for any burrs and such but other than that nothing much.
The 1911's I do a feed ramp polish and a throat polish till shes a mirror and may buff the mags and well in certain areas to make sure the mags drop free. I will also touch up any needed machining marks that are just not pretty inside the slide if I feel like it.
My others auto's like my XD has had nothing done to it at all.
Revolvers, a bit of a different story. But besides just strip and check for burrs not much.
I do a full strip and lube and check for any burrs and such but other than that nothing much.
The 1911's I do a feed ramp polish and a throat polish till shes a mirror and may buff the mags and well in certain areas to make sure the mags drop free. I will also touch up any needed machining marks that are just not pretty inside the slide if I feel like it.
My others auto's like my XD has had nothing done to it at all.
Revolvers, a bit of a different story. But besides just strip and check for burrs not much.
funny book flapjack
Member
Thought about it when I picked up my P-11.
Field stripped it, cleaned it, & ran a bunch of WWB value boxes through it first instead. No troubles, so I didn't worry about it after that.
Field stripped it, cleaned it, & ran a bunch of WWB value boxes through it first instead. No troubles, so I didn't worry about it after that.
rbernie
Contributing Member
Pretty much.
I actually didn't mind doing a once-over on my P32; for the cost of the unit, I didn't expect to get a finely finished product. I felt it was worth my while to at least take it down and remove any of the rough edges from things.
But frankly, that's where I stop. I refuse to buy a pistol that's not a fighting pistol, and I refuse to accept any pistol into that categorization that needs 'help' just to function properly out of the box.
Basically stripping the gun down, some go field strip, some do a detailed. Then basically any part that slides of rubs on another gets a mild sanding and/or polishing/buffing. Plastic parts get any excess flashing trimmed down as well. As stated it's kind of an accelerated break in for wear. I tend to go pretty mild with mine with coarsest sanding at 800 grit. I mostly use 1500 & 2000 followed by some Flitz polish. For sanding, try to keep the motion inline with how the part moves. A couple swipes of high grit sandpapr can work wonders with smoothing things down without worry of excess sanding. I typically do the frame/slide interace, plus a little on the barrel (I don't do a mirror polish all over like some), but I do try to get the feed ramp almost mirrored. Again without removing too much material.
Use 1000 grit or higher plus the polish and you'd have to be at it for hours before you could do any damage to the metal parts.
Here's a link to a nice Fluff article for Keltecs (which arguably need them out of the box!)
http://www.ktog.org/tecwerks12a.htm
lee n. field
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I've done it on a few, and on those, I can't honestly say it's resolved any problems.
varoadking
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Every one of 'em - if nothing else, a feedramp polish job with a Dremel, felt wheel and Flitz, immediately after purchase...
...and then I clean 'em, lube 'em, and head to the range...
...and then I clean 'em, lube 'em, and head to the range...
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