FN FAL-- What Barrell Length?

[ninjalawyer]

Hi everyone, I can't believe it took me so long after TFL shut down to find this site... Nicely done!

I'm just starting out building an FN FAL kit and need some advice. My plan is to build a rifle that has the feel and features of the T48 prototypes (the round hanguards, the squared off trigger guard, the stripper clip feed, etc.), and I want it to perform well at 600 meter ranges, so I'm putting in the FSE trigger kit, replacement night sights, etc. I think I have most of the parts picked out, but I'm still not sure about the barrell length.

I'm not the strongest guy in the world, and I'd like the rifle to be handy enough to use at close range. I have an M1A and that's the biggest rifle I can comfortably handle. It looks like my FAL will almost definitely be built on a Type III receiver (unless anyone knows where I can find a lighter one and I can get it transferred to a MA FFL) and FAL's generally run heavier than M14s do anyway. Trimming the barrell length down would probably help the weight and make it more versatile than the M1A, but how much would it affect the long range performance? I see lots of people buying 18" FALs, but what's the trade-off? Even with a barrell that length is the FAL practical for CQB? Anyone know any good tricks for lightening the rifle?

Also, I'm not in any rush to build this thing, so I'm thinking that I'll wait until after the AWB sunsets before I actually assemble it, which will give me more freedom to put on an authentic T48 flash hider and other toys.

 

[Roadrunner]

Search the forums over on the FalFiles. If you don't find anything, post the question over there. They were very helpful with my Izzy LB build.

 

[DMK]

I built an Imbel with Penguin furniture and a 17" barrel with a 1.5" long Tapco "short" brake on it. The barrel comes to just a tad over 18" with the brake. It's a pretty handy rifle and shorter overall than an M44 Mosin-Nagant carbine or a Norinco SKS.

However, the FAL is a heavy rifle, even with an aluminum mag and the synthetic furniture. After shooting the FAL, an AK feels like a little plastic toy rifle. Light weight lowers are available, but uncommon and pricy. I used a Dan Coonan upper. It's pretty light by itself. I don't think it added much weight to the overall package.

The weight of the rifle does to help absorb the recoil of the .308 though. I think that my rifle at least is balanced pretty well with a full mag. The weight is all at the center of the rifle. My FAL is very controllable during rapid fire, more so than my Garand, but I'm sure the muzzle brake is a big part of that.

BTW: I don't know if you are going for the original look or just the features of the T48, but I've got the TAPCO stripper clip top cover with the intergrated weaver rail on my rifle. It's very nice! It gave me a good excuse to stock up on that new Australian ammo on clips.

 

[Kharn]

I've got a bare (removed the flast hider, dont have a fake or anything on it), proper-length G1 barrel on my FAL, and yeah, its heavy as heck compared to my AK (and I'm not a very strong guy). But thats why the G1 comes with an integral bipod.

Kharn

 

[HankB]

Doesn't DSA make an aluminum lower? That would save a little weight. (Stay away from aluminum uppers . . . if they're even still on the market.)

 

[ninjalawyer]

They do, they run a bit under $100. I wonder how much weight they save. All of the lightened parts seem to cost a fortune and deliver minimal weight savings Maybe I should build the heavy rifle, save some cash, and join a gym

 

[Sunray]

22" and forget about the weight. You want the weight of an FN to help absorb recoil. You want the weight of an FN so you'll know you have a proper battle rifle in your hands. 22" in optimum for the .308. Anything else is some guy's idea of humour but gives you a rifle that doesn't do what it was intended to do. Waste of the calibre.

 

[SelfProclaimedExpert]

You may want to consult some ballistics charts and barrel stats to answer your question. While 21" might be a better length for .308, I'm not sure 50 or 75 fps loss in velocity out of an 18" barrel would affect 600 yard ballistics much.

But if you are spending extra on a T48, why would you mess with the look by chopping the barrel?

 

[ninjalawyer]

The T48 is the inspiration for the configuration I'm building, but I practicality and shooting enjoyability far outweigh historical accuracy as far as I'm concerned-- I just like the general look of the old rifles. I think I'm leaning towards 19" after reading through the FAL files archive, but I'll probably want to handle a few real FALs before making my final decision. It might not be worth it, though. I wonder how it will handle with the 19" barrel and the flash suppressor? I've never owned a pre-ban rifle-- when the barrel is threaded for a flash suppressor, is it possible to take it on and off at will?

 

[SelfProclaimedExpert]

Depending on model, preban rifles' flashhiders either twist off (HK) or require a wrench (AR, I think). With a postban it must be pinned or usually silver soldered over the threads. If there are no threads some less drastic method is okay.

If you are concerned with length, I would find a flash hider that is wide enough to ream out internally so it is large enough to slip over the unthreaded barrel, as a sleave, and fasten it there with silver solder or set screws.

That way, you get the flashhider look and no wasted bore. The rifling would go to the end of the fake flashhider.

 

[curt]

18" is a very handy length in the FAL, just enough weight up front to help things settle down, recoil is not a problem unless you're unusually recoil sensitive or have problems with your form. The lightweight lower shave about 8 oz off as i recall, i have it on my 18" Imbel and its very nice. You can shave a few more oz off by going with the cheaper penquin furniture. However you'll probably add on more than a few oz with the scope and mount (see below)

The problem you will have is that at 600 meters the sights won't be good enough and you'll have to go with a variable scope, variable to meet your short range req. The FAL isn't the best 600 meter gun anyway, a good fal will shoot ~2MOA at 100yds.

 

[SodaPop]

I've recently done tests with Portugese, South African, Federal 168gr and Federal 175gr Match ammo.

Both the Portguse and Federal 175gr Match ammo had the same POI at 500yds and there was about a 2 inch difference between the two. The Portguse shot about a 8inch group while the Match Kings did about 6.5 inches.

Trying to sight in a FAL (that adjusts to meters) at a 100-500yd is a waste of time. I scoped my Fal and never looked back. I just ordered a new 4-16x42mm Sightron scope for my Fal.

 

[Keith]

If you want it to be based on the T48, you'll want the Type 1 receiver with the lightening cuts.
The Coonan Type 1's are available from FAC for $199 and have an excellent reputation for fit, finish, etc.

I'm not sure, but I suspect the G1 kits would be closest to the original T48 in configuration as they were produced immediately after the trials that the T49 figures in. G1 kits are drying up, so act fast!

Keith

 

[50 Freak]

My fal sports a 17inch barrel and with a muzzle break comes to a total of 18 inches. It also has a DS Arms aluminum lower (well worth the money) and the weight saving with the lower, and aluminum mags and shorter barrel is substantial. The rifle feels very well balanced and is quick to shoulder and aim. I'm thinking of using some more weight saving peices, trying to make a 7.5 pound 308 rifle. So far I'm at 8.5