Force to swage a pocket?

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WestKentucky

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I have always cut crimps out, but was wondering...how much actual force does it take to swage a primer pocket? Is it something that could potentially be done with a handheld unit similar to a lee hand prime with some modification?
 
I don’t think a a modified lee hand primer would work, there would be no case head support just pressure on one side, also the modified primer rod may get stuck in the pocket trapping the case in the shell holder
 
I have the CH4D type of primer pocket swager. It would require more force than a hand primer would provide. The primer would probably just break on you. The kit that I own also has the Ram Prime bits as well and was $35 or so IIRC when I got it. Cheaper than replacing the priming tool when you break it for sure. Just add a press and a shell holder and you are in business. Works on the top of the press and the inside is unsupported but it works well IMHO. Google it and there are several people showing how easy it is to use. I also have the RCBS one and it really is a PITA to use.
 
Dillon makes a bench mounted tool, there isn't any reason you couldn't mount it on just a hunk of 1x or 2x and set it in your lap.

Frog, why is the RCBS such a pain? I need to get a swage, and was looking at the RCBS unit. I'll prolly go with the Dillon... it's $100 but for the reason mentioned by the OP, it's probably the best option.
 
Dillon makes a bench mounted tool, there isn't any reason you couldn't mount it on just a hunk of 1x or 2x and set it in your lap.

Frog, why is the RCBS such a pain? I need to get a swage, and was looking at the RCBS unit. I'll prolly go with the Dillon... it's $100 but for the reason mentioned by the OP, it's probably the best option.
I have the CH4D and the Dillon. CH4D works, but it hasn't come out of the box since I bought the Dillon. Properly lubed, it takes little force. Mine isn't attached to anything....although it would be a little easier. Just change hand position when pushing and pulling. Needs held down flat hanging over edge of table.

Russellc
 
I have the RCBS swage die. After the six hundred cases I got it for were finished I resolved to never use crimped primer brass again.

How much force should it take on a single stage press?

It seemed enormous to me. And required a sharp bang on the handle to get them off. That was the part that I liked least. It was hard to do that quietly at night. I don't like to force things, I've broken enough other tools in my days.

I am sure I am doing something not quite right...
But I also think the Lee just wouldn't have enough oomph.
 
I have both the Dillon and the https://www.mightyarmory.com/ decap and swage tool. The dillon is more expensive and good for a high volume of cases. The mighty armory is the best damn decapping die on the market and also comes with a swager.
 
And required a sharp bang on the handle to get them off. That was the part that I liked least.

Same here. I've found that using some lube on the plunger every 4th or 5th case alleviates that problem a little. My bench has a shelf and stuff keeps falling off.

I've also borrowed a Dillon and it is a much better tool. I'm not sure you could do it on your lap though.
 
Years ago, I bought the RCBS tool and found it to be somewhat of a pain in the butt. Swaging a 5 gallon bucket of military 5.56 brass was not something I was looking forward to by that method, so I tried a router bit with a 45 degree angle in my drill press. All it takes to remove the crimp is a slight 'kiss' and the crimp is gone. Works like a charm for me.
 
The reasons I do not like the RCBS are----Having to set the interior punch depth for each head stamp/variation to account for web thickness (requires sorting brass first as well), having to thread the brass up onto the pin inside of the die each time, and the afore mentioned having to thump the handle with my palm to get the brass off of the pocket punch each time at the end of the down stroke. Even when lubed well. None of this is needed with the inexpensive CH4D tool. The Dillon Super Swage tool requires that you set the internal pin depth for each brass type ( and sort) as well. I would google the three mentioned and watch the youtube videos of how to use them before any purchase.;)

ETA: When I first started using crimped primer pocket brass I used a reamer in a drill press to remove the crimps and that went fast. I now swage them back in place as I feel that the primer pocket will last longer with the most material surrounding it. Reaming a chamfer in it removes some of that brass so I chose a different method. Does it make a difference? Don't really know but logic says swaging might be better overall. YMMV
 
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I used the RCBS one for awhile. Then I got smart and went with the Hornady swager for their LNL-AP. Much faster and easier. I really like the design of the swager die. It uses bellville springs to push the brass of the swaging plug so it doe not stick.
 
I'm using the Hornady Primer Pocket Swag Tool on my LNL AP progressive press and the force required is slightly more than seating a bullet, but much less than sizing a pistol case in a carbide die. I'm not experiencing any of this thumping/popping the case off the swaging rod...case just pops right off

If I didn't have the LNL AP, I'd likely go with the Dillon bench tool
 
Idk. I have the RCBS for a SS press. IMHO it works just fine. Swaged 150 LC13 brass abt a month ago. I haven't primed 'em yet so I'm curious to see if the swaging stays, or if the brass rebounds some.
 
I like the "feel" of a swaged primer pocket when priming GI brass with a Lee auto prime. The Dillon Super Swage is the only way to go if swaging any large amount of brass. I shoot 308 and 223 service rifles. I have a full can of GI 45 brass that has yet to be processed. The GI brass holds up much better than store the bought commercial brass when used in a service rifle.
 
I was adjusting the Dillon swaging depth as necessary for different headstamps, but then I figured that if I don't force it to cam-over. I adjust the pin longer so that it does not cam-over, and I exert a certain amount of force each time and get consistent crimps regardless of headstamp. It takes a bit more force this way, but it works for me.
 
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