Free floating and glass bedding a new replacement stock

Lennyjoe

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Dec 24, 2002
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Southwestern Ohio
I’m gonna swap the factory plastic stock off of a Savage Axis ii to a Boyd’s and would appreciate any lessons learned on free floating and glass bedding a new stock. The factory stock isn’t my favorite and made a lot of noise walking thru the woods during deer season so an upgrade was in the making. If all goes well, I’m going to do the same to my Savage 110 30-06 as it’s factory stock is pretty beat up from years of hunting abuse.

FWIW, right before deer season, I actually swapped stocks on the 110 and the new stock caused my groups to open up quite a bit so I know the new stock needs work. Put the old stock back on and groups tightened back to what it was over the years. Great lesson learned on how a stock can effect groups if not properly fitted.

So for those who’ve worked in new stocks in the past, care to share lessons learned up front? I’m in the read and take notes phase before I begin.
 
In my experience bedding the recoil lug is a good way to keep the rifle consistent in changing atmospheric conditions with wood stocks. It doesn't necessarily make the rifle more accurate, but more consistent as temperature, humidity, and altitude change.

If the bedding is so far off that the stock is hurting accuracy it would be time to let a pro look at it in my opinion.
 
I see Bedding a rifle thread on the sticky post gives some good info as well.

I’m sure this is not the only outfit selling beding pillars for Savage Axis. Check Brownell’s too. I would get the pillars installed and then finish the action bedding. This is not a job for the faint of heart, but it’s not too bad if you’re mechanically inclined or have decent woodworking experience. A drill press and a method to hold the stock tight is needed. jmr40 has a point about getting a pro to do it.

I think pillars should be included with all rifles. Boyd’s has a vid on pillar bedding.

As far as bedding the action, be sure to cover the recoil lug in a layer of electrical tape or bedding tape. If you don’t, you can get bedding so tight you have to wack the barrel flat on a padded table to separate action from stock. Ask me how I know. Done right, it will still be tight.

Bedding tape is good stuff and should be used liberally. Mask off as much of the stock as can be.

At best, bedding is a messy job. If you don’t have all the bases covered, it’s a nightmare. Gloves, newspaper, paper towels, acetone, scrapers should all be handy.

You have to be ready for this job. Research, research, research. I build an order list and pin it somewhere close before I start. Being organized is an understatement. Release agent is cheap. Modeling clay fills cavities and bolt holes to keep bedding out.

Brownell’s used to have a Learning tab and had some good bedding instruction. I guess they quit that. I may have a copy of their instructions I’ll look for.

Larry Potterfield has some vids on YouTube. There are others.
 
Lesson #1: Make sure everything metal has a release agent on it. I use ordinary Johnson's Paste Wax, no longer made unfortunately, but I have a life time supply. Pam, oil, shoe polish, anything that epoxy won't stick to will suffice but I prefer wax for no mess. Many advocate Play Dough to fill action holes but I prefer modeling clay as it is stronger and contains a little oil.
 
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