Free-Floating Barrel

[Jaywalker]

I recently posted a "Lessons Learned" about fore-end bedding my Ruger M77 MkII with epoxy, but now I think I need to move on and free float it. I'm seeing some shot stringing with a warm barrel, and sometimes I get two distinct groups.

My question is, what tools do I need? Is it as simple as a dowel rod and sandpaper, or is there something that would make the bedding experience fantastic, if only I owned it? I won't be doing this much, so I don't want to go whole-hog, but it would be nice to have a straight, sharp, line of wood visible next to the barrel.

Jaywalker

 

[HSMITH]

Shim the front of the action up out of the stock first. Get it up just high enough to float the barrel, and shoot it to make sure it helps. I have seen quite a few cases where a decent shooting rifle would not shoot well at all after floating the barrel, and a simple shim test would have prevented the headache. A free floated barrel is not always the best thing.

 

[tc300mag1]

Shim the barrel as stated to check it i had 2 remingtons one in 30-06 and one in 300 win mag 300 win mag was worse when floated 30-06 showed great improvment .. Dowel rod and sand paper was what i used to take hum out of barrel channel then i used a plastic shim to make sure it stayed free floated

 

[Jaywalker]

Okay, fair enough. I would think shimming the front of the action would markedly change the way the lug fits; does this damage the lug recess? How many shots should it be able to take?

Jaywalker

 

[HSMITH]

Unless you go ape on your action screws it won't hurt anything on the stock. You only have to shim the front lug up .025" to make a 16th of an inch at the end of the barrel, so it isn't like you are cocking the action on the stock dramatically. I have seen guys shoot rifles shimmed for years with no ill effects to anything other than pride in workmanship.....