Front door kicked in. What steps to prevent it from happening again?

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ARperson

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Background: I'm a Realtor and have a friend's investment house listed for sale in a not-so-great part of town. It's vacant. I get a call from my office Saturday evening saying that the agent who was scheduled to show it just called and reported that the home's front door has been kicked in and is now no longer secure because there is no way to lock the door. The door is a standard home improvement store door with a basic wooden frame (yes, I know that's the problem). The kick blasted the frame and trim out; it required a whole new door to be installed.

My question is what can you do to standard doors such as these to improve the security? One of the other home improvement stores in the area sells doors with a steel piece over the frame where the dead bolt latches, provding a smidge more security. But as my husband says it probably changes the entry time from a one-kick attempt to a two-kick attempt. :D

Keep in mind that this house in particular must be accessible from the outside for agents to show it which eliminates all interior devices that can't be manipulated from the outside. I also know that this guy could have done a few more things to protect the home from becoming a target anyway, but assuming those were taken care of properly and a bad guy STILL wanted in this home, what can be done to strengthen the door?
 
You'll want a solid core door first of all. Good door latch and deadbolt secured to the frame with 3" screws. Also swap out the hinge screws for 3". Then, you might consider "pinning" the hinge side as well. This involves holes in the door-facing part of the frame and corresponding studs in the door which mesh together when locked.

It might not hold up to a battering ram, but it'd take a few kicks.
 
Man that's tough. If someone knows it's vacant they will have all the time they need. Other than grimlocks good advice I would consider having LOTS of lighting both exterior and interior.

Give as much as possible the appearance of comings and goings.

And, hope it sells in a hurry.
 
Same thing happened at my house. Best thing is a secure storm door. I got a Secure Elegence model. Can't remember the manufacturer, got it a Lowe's. It was about $250 dollars. All glass really nice looking storm door. Thing is - the glass is windshield glass - shatterproof. And the door has a dead-bolt lock at the top and bottom. You lift the handle up and the dead-bolts automatically lock, then you can lock it shut with a key. Really great deterrent and nice looking too - nobody would suspect it's a security door.

Otherwise, +1 on the previous replies - they also make metal boxes to put in the door frame, but the secure storm door is the real way to go, btw mine is installed with 5 3" screws on each side securing it all the way into the solid door frame :)
 
When I was a kid, my dad made a device out of 2X4 lumber, basically, it was one 2X4 that sat against the bottom of the door (steel door, solid core), with several 2X4 lengths that went from the first to a second 2X4, that sat against the bottom stair of the stairway leading upstairs. So, if the door was opened, even with a key, this box wedged against the stairway after about an inch of travel, then blocked the door solid.
 
CAS700850 said:
When I was a kid, my dad made a device out of 2X4 lumber, basically, it was one 2X4 that sat against the bottom of the door (steel door, solid core), with several 2X4 lengths that went from the first to a second 2X4, that sat against the bottom stair of the stairway leading upstairs. So, if the door was opened, even with a key, this box wedged against the stairway after about an inch of travel, then blocked the door solid.
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Violates the "must allow access to the home for showings" requirement! :p Otherwise, I've got tons of ideas to keep the door shut. :D

I thought of the security door too, but I have a feeling the owner isn't going to want to fork over the extra money. (Don't ask me why. Replace a $150 door every 2 weeks is going to add up too! That whole thing about an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure just doesn't seem to sink in with some people.)

The door was a solid core door. FWIW, the door itself was not damaged at all. The only evidence on the door that it had been kicked in was the muddy scuff mark left by the shoe. It was the door frame that gave, the part of the wood that has the cut-out for the dead bolt and door knob latch (which is the weakest part of this kind of door!).

The new door was installed with 3" screws all around, even the screws that hold the striker plates are held in place with 3" screws. At least the next time they want to kick it in, they have to bring along 3" of screw and stud with them.

Thanks for the responses. I will be sure to relay them to the owner. I only hope that this kind of thing doesn't happen again.
 
ARperson said:
Violates the "must allow access to the home for showings" requirement! :p Otherwise, I've got tons of ideas to keep the door shut. :D

I thought of the security door too, but I have a feeling the owner isn't going to want to fork over the extra money. (Don't ask me why. Replace a $150 door every 2 weeks is going to add up too! That whole thing about an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure just doesn't seem to sink in with some people.)

The door was a solid core door. FWIW, the door itself was not damaged at all. The only evidence on the door that it had been kicked in was the muddy scuff mark left by the shoe. It was the door frame that gave, the part of the wood that has the cut-out for the dead bolt and door knob latch (which is the weakest part of this kind of door!).

The new door was installed with 3" screws all around, even the screws that hold the striker plates are held in place with 3" screws. At least the next time they want to kick it in, they have to bring along 3" of screw and stud with them.

Thanks for the responses. I will be sure to relay them to the owner. I only hope that this kind of thing doesn't happen again.
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Let him know that a security door is a good selling feature. Not only does it keep someone from kicking your door in as easily, it also alows you to open the front door and allow fresh air in without leaving the house vulnerable to unwanted guests
 
After my front door got kicked in, I had the contactor who installed the new door put a 3" wide, 80" tall, 1/8" thick piece of steel between the door frame and the 2x4 framing in the wall. They had to drill holes thru the steel for the screws that mounted the door, hinges, and locks. They also had to drill a hole that the deadbolt engages thru, so it's not a cheap piece of soft pine, it's this full length piece of steel that holds the door closed. The steel was cheap (<$20 IIRC) and the installer charged me an extra $60 for labor.
 
From one real estate agent to another...

Solid core door with anti-kick hinges (they are pinned on the inside to restrict the ability to kick the door off it's hinges)

Reinforced hinge points on both the door and the frame (plates or extended screws)

Reinforced bolt receptacles (pipe inserts where the lock bolts enter the door frame).

To retain exterior access that's about all you can do short of a barred security gate (which gives most buyers a negative first impression).

And remember that the house is only as secure as it's weakest point of entry. An ultra secure door will just make the nearby window a more enticing target.

Make sure you keep all your doors and windows locked, and keep things out of sight that might entice someone to want it more than you (like a new plasma TV that's plainly visible from the sidewalk/street). That and a paid up insurance policy is as good as it gets unless you intend to have the whole house wrapped in steel and guarded 24/7.

Brad
 
Hi Mannlicher-

I don't know if that "prospective customer" will be so willing to purchase the property if he or she arrives to the site with their realtor to find a broken door kicked-in...and used drug paraphernalia scattered all around. My family owned investment property in a lousy part of town and the addicts used to force their way in to smoke dope...until I made it real unpleasant for them.

My vote goes to doing the job right and being done with it. Select either reinforced jambs or opt for a steel security door painted a nice color. Steel doors even come with "grained" patterns to make them look more like wood. Request two deadbolts a few inches apart that use the same key.

~ Blue Jays ~
 
Hi

You say the kick blasted the whole door frame out - do you mean the frame that comes with the door at the store?

If so, then when the new door and frame/Jam are installed use LOTS of 3" or longer screws to secure the door jam on at least the two verticle sides to the 2x4 studs that frame it - this should make it so they cannot kick the door frame off.

I had this same problem on a house I owned once - new construction is cheap and the door was kicked in or off its hinges and the deadbolt wasn't broken they just pushed the entiire door with the jam attached to the hinges right into the entryway. They actually has about a 1inch space between the studs and the door jam with only a few shims in between - the screws securing the jam didn't go in deep enough. I ended up putting 1x2's in this space and using something like 4" scres so that doorjam was secured really tight.
 
http://www.djarmor.com sells a "door jamb armor" set of shaped steel forms that slips around the existing wood door jamb and hinges. They claim it takes about an hour to install (you don't have to take the door off) and greatly reduces the ability to kick in the door. Cost is about $80, less for multiple orders.

It looks like a neat idea, but I've never tried it and have no idea how effective it is (especially since I've never done anything more DIY than hammering in picture brads). So caveat and such.

- Cliff
 
I have a hard time understanding why builders have not been installing steel door frames and solid doors as standard for decades. Considering the price of even the most modest house, cost is hardly any explanation.

And it is really not about attempting to prevent all forced entries; as regardless of how a home is constructed, if someone has the will, the time and the tools, they will get in eventually. What it is all about is preventing the opportunists and common thugs, and more important - fast forced entry during a home invasion when folks are home.
--------------------------------------------------

http://ussliberty.org
http://ssunitedtstates.org
 
:D :D :D :D

Place sign on door:

Please do not kick door in. Ring bell twice, keys will come to you...


Clipped to the collar of 1 of my 8 Rotweilers/German Shepards/Dobermans [insert favorite large-breed dog here] that will all meet you at the door.

:D :D :D :D


Seriously, the reinforced frame/jamb with 3" screws all around and the hinges is a great idea. I have also seen a kit that has a plate that goes over the edge of the door, under the lockset, and a large lock strike plate with the long screws. Can't recall the name of this kit right now, have seen the kit at Loews, Home Depot, Wal-Mart.

The average strike plate is about 2" long with a couple of short #8 or so sized screws. The strike plate in this security kit I have seen is about 10"-12" long, with 4 large scews, probably #12 or #14 size, 3" long
 
Mannlicher said:
Just put another cheap door on it for now. No sense in putting all that money into a fixer upper, especially in a 'bad part' of town. Let the new owner upgrade to his hearts content.
Click to expand...

It's not a fixer-upper. It's already been fixed up. Besides, even buyers in the "poorest" neighborhoods have some demands about the security of their house.

I really appreciate all the responses. The new door was installed with the 3" screws to help at least a little bit. I'm still going to suggst a security door, but I doubt very seriously it will be considered at all.
 
All this discussion makes me all the more pleased to live in a place where I don't even lock the doors...ever. Heck, I don't even know where the keys are to my doors.
 
I say that the decorative wrought Iron gate door is a good choice, In neighbor hoods where there is a hint of trouble it does not make a bad impression to a buyer, Decorate the grates with flowers or ivy and it looks good too. get motion lights and mount them up high so you need a latter to get at them, but the stone proof bulbs from graingers.

done right it is going to cost a grand, but that will be a one time deal, unles they drive a truck thru
 
pete f said:
I say that the decorative wrought Iron gate door is a good choice, In neighbor hoods where there is a hint of trouble it does not make a bad impression to a buyer, Decorate the grates with flowers or ivy and it looks good too. get motion lights and mount them up high so you need a latter to get at them, but the stone proof bulbs from graingers.

done right it is going to cost a grand, but that will be a one time deal, unles they drive a truck thru
Click to expand...
You know, they would also work inside the door properly anchored - with the lock perhaps shrouded to be inaccessible except from the inside.

Once your mark has breached the door - now he has a new and more difficult problem. If you leave a light on inside, your mark is now faced with working on the iron while he is backlit to the street - assuming the front door faces and is visible from the street that is.
---------------------------------------

http://ussliberty.org
http://ssunitedstates.org
 
my uncle had one of his properties broken into and one thing that really helps prevent is extended and strengthened screws. When you screw the door in they come with tiny screws. same with locks. get a really good length dead bolt and also the kick plates (the metal trim that goes around the lock mechanism area). On a jobsites door that I worked at once the door and four locks on the door plus the deadbolt and handle. the extra locks were the kind that you push the little metal bolt from the door through a latch on the frame. I think i've seen them called deadlocks or night latches.
 
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