prevent door kick-in & secure shotgun

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We are currently working on a shotgun and AR mount/lock using a pushbutton lock similar to our handgun safe and be able to mount horizontally or vertically. Hopefully will be available later this summer.
 
One of the simple places to start is to arrange for a lack of traction outside the offending doors. You can't kick the door in if you keep falling on your backside. Then Re-inforce the door frame on the hinge side and do the deep lock deal so they don't fail. A simple wedged door stop, (a bar that goes from and anchor on the floor to a plate on the door) builds a triangle of strength that prohibits the door opening, but if there is a window in the door, that gets broken, the bar removed, and then they are in.

There's not a lot that you can do to stop a determined intruder, but you can make it take longer. The down side is that you can't put in a moat and fill it will carnivorous fish anymore. Folks frown on that for some reason....
 
Several times now people mention how futile it is to reinforce because "if I cover my house in a concrete dome, they will just come with a wrecking crane." Realistically, a burglar isn't going to come with a chainsaw to cut your studs. I wish they would because that would be a fun story to tell my kids. :-D

Truth be told all you have to do to prevent the burglaries is make your house less desirable to rob than your neighbors. The burglars were said to hit houses with alarms meaning they are focusing on speed, otherwise they would be caught red-handed when the cops show up. If they try to kick in your reinforced door and fail the first few kicks. Sure they may move to a window or they might go somewhere easier, like your neighbor who didn't reinforce his door. Their immediate use of brute force when there are easier ways in shows their lack of sophistication and simplicity. They will probably go next door.
 
If you get a near impregnable door, the criminals will attack your windows. If you get better windows, they can use a chain saw to cut a hole in your stud wall in about 30 seconds.

Chainsaws aren't a problem for me: the exterior of my house is made of rough-hewn chunks of granite (see attachment). :)

For the door: have you considered a pivot door? Like this? http://www.ontarioarchitecture.com/twentyfirst/currandoor1.gif . A friend of mine has one at his house. it's 8' wide by 12' tall, steel, and weighs over 2 tons. No one's kicking that in.

Granted, those dimensions and weights are extreme. But if you've got a wide entry (say, a door flanked by two sidelights) I bet you could install a steel pivot door. The advantage is that, since the door pivots on a central axis, it can be secured with deadbolts on either side of the pivot.
 

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Simple = Check
Cheap = Check
Ugly = Check
Getting it past the wife = ????

I've used just a 2 X 4 with a couple of Z bars bolted in with large lag bolts. Of course that was never in the home, always in a commercial/business environment, but I never had those doors gotten into despite several attempts.
 
I was wondering whose stone house that was.

I do like the idea of the pivot door. Leaves a lot of locking options open and it is a tank to boot.

Probably pricey....
 
If you are just worried about door kick ins when you are home, and want more time to access you locked weapon, then I've got an idea. I took (4) 5 1/2" long eye bolts and pre-drilled holes into my door frame. Two bolts on the right, two on the left about a foot above/below each other. Two hardened steel 2 inch bars across the doors when I go to bed at night. very effective.

At a tear down we remodeled last year, my GC and I tried the same setup. We kicked it dozens of times, broke the deadbolts easily, but then I about hyper extended my knee when the door hit the bars....couldn't get in until I pulled the door off the frame.
 
Securing door: Look to the ancients for simple technology.
A) Build brackets on either side and use a board across the door. Cost $20
B) Alternately, you can buy eyelet style screws and screw them deep into the doorjamb on either side of the doors, then use a piece of rebar through the eyelets.
C) Buy a length of 2x6 and measure and cut to lenght so it reaches from braced under your door handles to a spot on the floor where you can brace it against a solid item, like the base of the stairs, the base of a wall, etc. You can place a wide board there too to disperse the pressure. Alternately you can fix something either permanently or temporarily to the floor to use as a brace.

Securing shotty from small kids.
A) Bicycle style hooks to the top inside of your closet above the doors. Not thief-proof, but small child proof. Keep the chamber empty, mag tube full, with side saddle full. Put it in safe when you leave.
 
My grandfather did a good job of turning his house into a fortress. All block construction. All windows, except the arcadia door, had bars on them set set into the block. The arcadia door was heavy glass and was both locked and screwed shut so that it could not be lifted out. The front double doors had a piece of square bar stock running from top to bottom, anchored to the steel frame with bolts drilled through the door and frame, along with the deadbolt. The reinforcing bar was directly behind the deadbolt, so there was literally no room to give. The rear door had bars. All the hinges had pins going into the frame to prevent the door from being taken off by removing the hinge pins. And lastly there was the alarm system. In his drawer was a .38 revolver and, under the bed, an M1 Carbine with loaded mags. Heaven help the poor bastard who even considered messing with that house. They just simply were NOT getting in. That crazy old engineer had a lot of time to work on his house, and we're still finding surprises even though he's been gone for over a year. Oh how I miss him. . .
 
If the layout of your house permits it. Install interior security doors/gates. If you have an entry hallway, install a gate at the end of it. Then you have a barrier that impedes intruders, but not buckshot. Arrange your living room furniture so that you have to zigzag through it. Anything that slows people down inside is good. When your kids get a bit older put security doors on the bedrooms. (Or you could do it now solve the kids in your bedroom problem too :D). The kicking noises ought to tell you where to go.

A Colombian friend of mine who spent a couple years as an involuntary guest of the FARC lives in a fortress now. But from the outside you would just think it is a very nice condo.
 
I also tend to think that since it is easy to do, people go overkill on their doors when they should really be thinking about the windows.
 
Good call on interior doors, Sebastian. I plan on installing an exterior-grade door--with peephole--as the door to the master bedroom.
 
http://www.columbiamfg.com/category.asp?catid=5

I installed a security screen door at the beginning of the short hallway leading back to our bedroom and the back part of the house, primarily as a method of containing our dogs when we have company (Filas don't like people they don't know). That door has a double-keyed deadbolt lock also, and it works well as a reasonably strong barrier to the back of the house as well.

lpl
 
Home security, like handguns, seems to always be a compromise between what's most effective, and what's most efficient. I think those who rent, or who intend to move within 10 years, probably have it pretty rough when settling on security ideas.

If you own your home and intend to live and die there, you're free to make it a residential fortress, as a poster above mentioned. We've gone pretty extensive around here as I've mentioned before, you're not getting into my house without machinery. However it took money, and it took time, and if I were ever to sell this joint those measures have about zero recoverable value. Odds are high that the next buyer doesn't give a rip that the glass slider is bullet resistant, or that you'd have better luck coming through the wall than the front door.

If you're not in a position to go all out tin-foil crazy with it, plenty of the off the shelf products mentioned in this thread will certainly slow someone down enough to buy you a little response time.

Then once you buy the house you intend to keep, send the missus on a nice vacation, remove all the drywall, and start ordering up the steel. Heh.
 
An old bar I used to frequent when I lived in NYC eons ago, used two sets of brackets installed into the reinforced frame and your basic steel channels or I beams placed in them to prevent a kick in ( it would take a vehicle to crash through that door) - the door was steel, the frame reinforced, and then these bars across the door 1/3 from the top and 1/3 from the bottom. Since it was a fire exit, the beams weren't used while it was open, but there was NO way someone was getting in through it when secured
 
Many police supply houses carry locking brackets for shotguns and rifles, many take handcuff keys and come with a hidden momentary off button, they run on a electromagnet and that is what I would look for, mount if above a closet door, right above the trim, hide the switch somewhere out of the way, now you have your loaded gun, locked and out of sight.

As for the door, remember, it's not a single point, if you have ever seen the show "it takes a thief", the guy sometimes would just chuck a rock though a glass door or picture window, or use a ladder and into a 2nd story window to get in, it really sucks because there is not single solution.
 
Well, as I said previously, the wrought iron gates / storm doors work really well. $800 seems like a lot of money, but if you don't eat out for a month, you are half way there.
 
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