Front Strap Checkering

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Do you find it makes a difference compared to a smooth front strap? I have a few with vertical serations, but none with actual checkering on the steel frame (polymer frames have their own thing going on).

Robar is $280 :)what: ) to checker the front strap, I feel I might as well buy a new gun for that much. So alternatives, grip tape, or the badly reviewed Wilson Combat front strap add on for the 1911? Or don't worry about it? I am leaning toward trying some grip tape from Home Depot just for kicks.

I feel like I am missing out on something! Let me know what you all think.
 
Had a Springfield TRPw/20lpi checkering and ended up getting rid of it, just too coarse. It was tearing holes in all my jackets.

I now have a Kimber TLE w/30lpi. checkering that I like better but doesnt seem to be much more coarse than the skateboard tape on my Colt.

Personally I am beginning to think that 25lpi. checkering may be the best compromise.
 
I have 30 lpi checkering on Three of my pistols and it is a class act. With this said, Skateboard Tape works as well and most of my pistols have it instead of checkering. The hand checkering should cost you about $200. This is my custom Kahr K40 by The accurizer Gunshop in Troy, Mi. The grips are Hogues and the sights are Trijicon. Regards, Richard :D
fa9e2db0.jpg
 
I sent my champion to Springfield for some checkering - 20 lpi as I like aggressive grips. My 5" 1911 had the checkeing, while teh 4" champion did not. The gun with the checkering feels more secure in my hand. If it is psychological, then so be it.
 
If you have one checkered you will want them all done. It spoils you terribly, I prefer 30 lpi as 20 will tear up your clothes as mentioned and your hands on extended range sessions.
 
On a custom gun, checkering completes the job in many folks opinions... I've owned a couple 1911s with checkered front straps and the only thing I've come to be sure of is I would NEVER get 20lpi checkering for a carry gun.

There are many metalwork alternatives to checkering such as stippeling and Ned Christiansen's conamyds. I think that griptape works quite well (as do the gritty grip panels) but both have certain drawbacks such as when carrying in a tuckable holster... :eek:

I think if I were to have a custom made 1911 built that was going to be carried daily or nearly daily, I would want something like a very shallow checkering (kind of a crosshatch version of the single direction serration that comes on guns like Berettas. Either that or nothing at all. Stippling give a nice surface but I do NOT like how it looks at all and I'm not sure I would do something like that to my first true custom 1911... On the other hand, it seems to fit BHPs quite nicely.

As far as cost goes... if you want custom stuff and you can't do it yourself, you're gonna pay... Personally, I'd rather have a basically stock Springfield or Colt 1911 with no checkering and a P32 than the same 1911 with checkering.
 
I like the rubber textured grip tape from A-Grip.
I have used it on my makarovs and really makes a difference , at least for me.

I am getting ready to make an order from Brownells and a sheet of the A-Grip stuff is on the list. I have been wanting to get my new SS Compact II checkered 30LPI. Problem is I just don't want to fork out the bucks when I don't even know if I like it or not. For me the A-grip tape is a relatively cheap option. And ...if you decide you don't like it later you can remove it and your good as new.
 
I checker front and backstraps on my guns and I find it a great help. Checkering on handguns should be FLAT-TOP that way the checkering won't tear clothing. 20 -30 LPI will do well.
 
20 LPI checkering makes a HUGE difference. Once you grip your pistol, your hand is "locked in" and will not slip. It is also very difficult to adjust your grip quickly. As others have stated, it is very aggresive and hard on clothing.

30 LPI is much less aggresive and about the same as good grip tape. It is very attractive when done well. It is much easier to adjust your grip with 30 LPI.

I have never tried 25 LPI but have a pistol on order with it, as I felt it would be a good compromise. I don't get too bothered by 20 LPI, but I wouldn't want to shoot 1000 rounds through a gun so checkered in one day either.

You should be able to find checkering much cheaper than $280.
 
I've used grip tape but at present I'm using the Wilson Combat add on. If you get it installed correctly it works very well.
 
Rather than checkering, I have the front strap of my bulleye .45s stippled. Works just as well and is a lot less expensive. Either choice makes a rapid fire string a lot easier when it's 95 degrees in the shade and your hand is sweaty.
 
I like the 20 lpi on the Caspian Race Ready frame for range work but like the guys said, 20 is a bit rough on a carry gun. My primary IDPA gun, carry gun, and IPSC L10 pistol all have 30 lpi checkering. I wouldn't be without it.
 
Cool, thanks for the replies. I'll start with some grip tape and see how that feels for now.

Stippling looks okay to me, fish scales need to match with the rest of the gun, the wavy one looks neat too. So much is out there! :eek:
 
I have skate tape on a couple of pistols and serrations on a couple more and stippling on one. my Springer Champion. All of these work well, but the stippling is my favorite. Mine was done at the Springfield custom Shop and it was very reasonable.
 
well done checkering really puts the finishing touches on a custom gun. but the diamonds are liable to get dinged up alot on a carry gun...the finer the checkering the more delicate.

i've also used skateboard tape on my guns but it doesn't wear very well either...but it is cheap to replace

i wen't with ned christensen's conamyds on the front strap of my sig 220 and they are very comfortable and still very secure while still allowing you to adjust your grip

the most cost effective route while affording an increase in grip security are serrations. most factory guns having serrations don't cover enough of the front strap

the checkering should be running more in the $200 neighborhood
 
Well I've had 20, 25 and 30 lpi stuff and I prefer 25 or 20 lpi. I will say this though - on a carry gun if you get a lousy draw it is hard to adjust your grip. Also, checkering on the backstrap is a no-no in my book. The most common problem that happens to me on an IWB draw is shirt getting between my hand and the backstrap/ms housing. Very very hard to rip that shirt out without almost letting go of the gun.

With all that said, this treatment on my old Clark bullseye gun definitely takes the cake. It absolutely will not slip in your hand. Little "pins" about .050 high standing up all over the front strap

1948Coltrightside.jpg

"Tigertooth" stippling by Jim Clark
 
I just picked up a used Kimber Gold Match and the previous owner put the Pachymer wrap around grips on it. It gives the front strap that rubber checkering for cheap and looks better than tape. Something to check into.
 
I've got a friend with one of the Clark Longslide bullseye guns and that style of stippling. It definitely give you traction, and isn't nearly as uncomfortable as it should be... :scrutiny:
 
I just picked up a used Kimber Gold Match and the previous owner put the Pachymer wrap around grips on it
Click to expand...

Yeah, I have those grips in a box. It feels like it adds too much size to the grip. I might try them again, since either way, I can't reach the mag release without shifting my hand.

"Tigertooth" stippling by Jim Clark
Click to expand...
:scrutiny:
 
Yeah, I have those grips in a box. It feels like it adds too much size to the grip. I might try them again, since either way, I can't reach the mag release without shifting my hand.
Click to expand...
I hear you on that. But I came from shooting double stack Para's almost exclusively, so even with the wrap, it still feels pretty thin.

I think I may try the old bike inner tube trick.
 
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