Full Length Resizing vs Neck Resizing

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ruger1228

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I have been one who always does Full Length Resizing on my rifle brass.
I currently picked up a Ruger No.1 in .243 caliber. It is the only .243 rifle I have. Would it be to my advantage to only neck size the brass for this rifle or should I continue full length resizing?
Thanks for the assistance.
thom
 
"Would it be to my advantage to only neck size the brass for this rifle... "

Probably not.
 
I have been shooting a remington 700 in a 243caliber for 35yrs and only full length resize when using brass not shot from my rifle. I have found that neck resizing only makes my rifle a lot more accurate. I also trim my brass to all the same length.
 
this topic has been beat to death on this forum and many others

some people will say "rawr rawr rawr neck sizing is awesome"

some will say "rawr rawr rawr neck sizing is stupid"

some will say "rawr rawr rawr bump your shoulders back"

fguffey will ramble incoherently about feeler gauges

folks with any sense at all will tell you to try different methods, compare the results, and decide for yourself
 
Raw raw raw I nick size because it is easier. I don't have to lube & I doubt I would get 30+ loadings out of a FO sized case.
 
I agree with NeuseRvrRat on all counts, but especially that you have to try different things in your rifle to see what it likes.
 
The beauty of building one's own ammunition for one's own firearms is that one can, within safe limits, experiment with all the options available: powders, charges of those powders, primers, bullets, OAL, brass, and of course, a dozen ways one can prepare that brass.

- Decide how fast/accurate you want your rifle cartridges to be.
- Study what has worked for others.
- Try a set of options.
- Control every variable you can control until you're satisfied that a given variable doesn't matter.
- Measure and record the results.
- Decide what thing in those results is most in need of change.
- Study how people have succeeded in changing that thing.
- Change one thing at a time, else when you observe a change, you won't know what caused it.

Lather, rinse, repeat...
 
" agree with NeuseRvrRat on all counts, but especially that you have to try different things in your rifle to see what it likes. "

Roger that. It gets amusing to read others who tried it (or anything else, such as crimping) and found it did/didn't help them and loudly preach their result is the 'end all of human knowledge' about it.

Sizing without lube, including neck sizing and carbide pistol dies, eventually leads to galled brass in the sizer and galled brass in the sizer leaves scratches on successive cases. It's not a question of 'can I get away without it', it's just much better to put a touch of lube on any case where hard contact sizer rubbing occurs.
 
Ruger1228, again, this stuff does not lock me up, I can full length size to minimum length, I can size a case for a short chamber that is .012 thousandths shorter than a minimum length case. I can also size a case that is the same length as the chamber without taking wild guestimates of a turn of the die, all of my presses and dies have threads, 1 turn of my die in my press is = to .071429, if I choose to verify the 1 turn off the shell holder I measure the gap between the shell holder and die. To most reloaders that does not make sense but for me when forming 7.7 Japanese cases from 30/06 cases I use a gap of .320” between the bottom of a 308W forming die and the top of the shell holder, after forming the case must be full length sized, for the 7.7 Japanese case I use an old Herters set of dies.

The incoherent part: A collector/shooter/reloader wanted to know a source for 7.7 cases, with everything he was involved in the price of 7.7 new cases was a price he chose not to pay, so he went to the Internet, the value of his answers totaled to ZERO, I contacted him and offered to form cases for his 7.7 and and ship them to him, I formed 60 cases with 6 different head stamps, new match LC, new R-P Remington, new LC, and once fired cases etc..

I sized 20 cases to minimum length, that would be .005 thousandths longer than a go-gage length chamber, my instruction to him for the group 1 cases was to load and fire, the second group included the instructions that stated these cases should chamber with the slightest effort when closing the bolt, the third group came with the instructions that stated these cases are .010 thousands longer from the head of the case to its shoulder than the length of a minimum length case ‘AND SHOULD NOT CHAMBER!, (the incoherent part) I sent him 20 cases that were .005 thousandths shorter than a go-gage, I sent him 20 cases that were the same length as a go-gage, I sent him 20 cases that were the same length as a no go-gage from the head of the case the the shoulder.

Keeping up, not possible, I could have said ‘datum’ but I would have lost everyone because the datum for the 7.7 is .375 (3/8”) and the 308W is .400” (2/5”), and then I could say none of this forces me to the curb.

For those that can grasp the incline plain (threads used on the die and in the press) sizing is about a narrow window between minimum length/full length sized (new, over the counter, factory ammo) and the go-gage length chamber, for the 30/06 type chambers the difference is .005 thousandths, the .005 difference is a matter of having having a case that is .005 thousandths shorter than the chamber from the face of the bolt to the shoulder by .005, if a case that has the same length as the chamber from the head of the case to its shoulder the difference is .000.

For years the instructions started with adjusting the die in 1/4 turns, 1/2 turns and 3/4 turns, then it went to degree as in 1/4 turn = .017+ thousandths, the incoherent part, I said there is a narrow window of adjustment when sizing a fired case to minimum length/full sizing, so 1/4 to 1/2 turn off the shell holder is neck sizing with total disregard to sizing the case to fit the chamber.

I have dies, lots of dies, I have neck sizing dies, small base dies, case forming dies, lots of case forming dies, again, if I had one case forming die it would be the 308W, next would be the 243 forming die, for those that can not see the correlation between the incline plain, threads per inch and gap between the shell holder and the bottom of the die are left with making wild guestimates in 1/4 turns, degrees of a turn converted to thousandths or percentages, those that do not understand correlation do not understand the concept of verifying, again, If I was making wild guestimates I could check my wild guestimate by verifying, the feeler gage is a verifying tool, it is a standard, it is a transfer.

I could make reliable adjustments with a depth gage or dial caliper, meaning I can measure the gap at the top of the die or below the die between the die and shell holder but that would be incoherent concept, to convince someone that is possible I would have to explain the concept of .000 ZERO, meaning if I raise the die .005” off the shell holder the die protruding above the press also .005”, then the conversation would take the ugly turn toward “Did the tool come from Japan and or China?” Harbor Freight?” “Is the tool a Brown & Sharp” (not the same company as B&S of R.I.), the feeler gage is the humblest most modest of tools.

Then there is ‘time as a factor, I have formed wildcat cases with loads that were at or above maximum load, and I was told I was going to blow-up something, time as a factor is another concept when applied to a reloading forum goes into the category of incoherent. After that those that do not understand the events that follow pulling the trigger say the case shorten, I have a friend that built 5 magnificent rifles, they made the reamer, 5 of the first 10 cases fired had incipient case head separation. I told him I could have told him what was going to happen before he left the shop, I told him I could have fixed the problem (long enough to form his cases) had I met him at the range.

F. Guffey
 
“I have been one who always does Full Length Resizing on my rifle brass.
I currently picked up a Ruger No.1 in .243 caliber. It is the only .243 rifle I have. Would it be to my advantage to only neck size the brass for this rifle or should I continue full length resizing?
Thanks for the assistance.
thom”

Your question ask for an either/or answer. full length size or neck size, when sizing a case for a chamber that is go-gage length I have a minimum of of 5 choices between .000 and .005 thousandths, between full length sizing to minimum length and neck sizing I have as many 40 practice choices, again I am the fan of bullet hold, I want all the bullet hold I can get, backing the full length sizer die off to neck size has its advantage, the portion of the neck that is not sized helps in centering the case in the chamber.

Again, I have neck sizer dies, I do not use them, I do not make money from the sale of neck sizer dies, small base dies, I am the fan of getting all the use I can out of the tools I have. The full length sizer die, in my opinion, is the vestal die, again, I form/size cases for short chambers, I size cases for chambers that are beyond field reject chamber length and all the sizes in between with the versatile full length sizer die.

The incoherent part, the full length sizer die is stamped F. L., the neck sizer die is stamped neck sizer, again, there are a lot of choices between full length sizing to minimum length and neck sizing.

Again, I have a M1917 Eddystone with a long chamber, the chamber is .014 thousandths longer than a minimum length sized case, I do not fire form cases for this chamber, I form 280 Remington cases to 30/06 with an additional .014 thousandths added between the head of the case and its shoulder. When forming 280 Remington cases to 30/06 I have .051 thousands to play with, all I am required to know is the length of the chamber from the bolt face to the chamber shoulder, and a feeler gage, again, I could use an ‘OLD’ Brown & Sharp depth gage or a dial caliper but I would hope a few on this forum would understand that would be showing off and name name dropping.

F. Guffey
 
Old/newbie here, so you can full length & neck size from the same die? I don't need a seperate neck sizing die?
Thanks
Tim
 
Beatledog7, you put time, effort and thought into your response, for that, thank you.

As though there is a template for thread responses, this thread has one element missing ‘BENCHRESTERS’. We are always informed of methods and techniques used by benchresters, and, world records. As to how benchresters ‘do it’ the information is always presented in such a way that lead some to think ‘it is the only way’.

As to the only way, I should have the luxury of disagreeing.

I have two 300 Win Mags, one shoots one hole groups, the other shoots patterns, the rifle that shoots shot gun looking patters produced by the Model 70 Winchester should have never escaped the Winchester factory, when we started working out the problem they thought I was difficult, before it was over they thought I was impossible, long story, anyhow, I made it easy for them, I ask for a chamber that would fit my dies or dies that would fit their chamber.

As to the rifle that shoots one hole groups with Federal Gold Medal, cases fired in the one hole group rifle chambers in the rifle that shoots patters without sizing, back to the ‘benchresters way’, they start with a rifle with a different chamber, they start with a different rifle, back to full length sizing and accuracy, I have more than a couple of 30/06 chambered rifles, I have enough parts put away to build 4 more. One of my 30/06 chambered rifles was advertised as the ugliest rifle ever built and “What was he thinking about” most of the comments on one form were from those that have the propensity to make themselves look good at others expense.

And of course, no one on that form owed me anything, but, I did ask if they would hold off until the end of the auction ended, I did not want the rifle to get additional attention, if the rifle became famous??? I could not afford to continue bidding. I won, $120.00, the builder/owner included his DL# on the receiver, my only interest in the rifle was for the parts, Remington M1917, I did not agree with the ugly part, I did not think anyone could build something that ugly with out knowing what they were doing.

Before I sorted through the sum of the parts I mounted a base, rings and scope then loaded 120 rounds of 12 different loads, cases, powder, bullets etc. all cases were full length sized or new. I went to the range, took my time and shot all 12 different loads of 10 each, northing larger than a quarter. It took time, the rifle, because of how it was built, got hot in a hurry. Point? There is nothing I could do to improve on the accuracy so I applied the ‘leaver policy’, I lefter the way I founder.

Back to the Model 70 Winchester, cases fired in the Winchester are all but impossible to size for the other rifle, I know, I have colets, all I have to do is install a collet in one of my lathes, pull it up and there you are, but if I chamber the colet sized case back into the Winchester Model 70 and pull the trigger?, and that is the reason I wanted a set of dies that fit Winchesters chamber, I am the fan of cutting down on all that case travel. It has been 4+ years since they returned the rifle, with no explanation, new box, same serial number.

Then there is the Santa Fe. sold by Sears, $150.00, a dealer at a gun show refused to make an offer, he informed the seller it was junk. I did not have the money with me so he agreed to go to the bank with me, when I pulled into the bank drive through the seller left, seems he thought a pick up full of rifles and shotguns etc., would be more then the teller could deal with, then I reminded him I said “ATM”. He gave me two boxes of R-P ammo purchased with the rifle in the early 60s,, again, one hole groups.

F. Guffey
 
Old/newbie here, so you can full length & neck size from the same die? I don't need a seperate neck sizing die?
Thanks
Tim
I've found that a neck-sizing die just resizes the neck, whereas a full-length sizing die that is backed off does a semi-good job of neck sizing depending on where you set it. With most of my f.l. dies, it will partially size the body of the case if set it low enough to resize most of the neck. When neck sizing, I prefer a pure neck-sizing die from Redding. I believe they make quality dies to close tolerances.
This is all my personal opinion and don't wish to start arguing with anyone about "how wrong I am."
 
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