Full length sizing

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BigN

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I've got a 22-250 that I want to reload for. I've been reading that some people only neck size and some always full length resize when reloading. Seems to me that neck sizing only would save a lot of wear and tear on your brass. The brass will always be shot in the same gun. Anyone see a problem with this? If so, would that extend to other calibers as well, 243 or 270?
 
I would partial full length size to fit the chamber. Many people prefer neck sizing though.
 
A lot of people do it that way. There are 2 caveats though...

• You have to be loading for a bolt action rifle (which you clearly are), and

• You have to be reloading brass previously fired in that particular rifle.
 
The only time my .22-250 brass is FLS'd is when it is new. After I shoot it neck sizing is all it gets. My brass will get lost when out hunting before I reload it enough to wear it out. I'm burning Varget at a hair over 3800 fps. No signs of failure, but after a couple loads at that it gets demoted to just plinking ammo. (lighter load with lighter projectile for targets)
 
I full length size everything, and if I can buy a small base sizing die, then it is full length sized in a small base sizing die.

I have mulitple target rifles in 30-06, 308 and .223. My ammunition has to fit all of the rifles of the same caliber. I cannot affort the luxury of neck sizing or partial neck sizing. As some of the time I shoot the stuff in gas guns, the brass has to be smaller than the chamber or I risk function issues.

I took one set of 100 LC66 cases 22 reloads in a M1a without a case head separation. I full length resized them all. Incidentally I lubricated the cases and that was the main reason they lasted so long, but regardless, I still took a set full length resized set of brass 22 reloads. Not all cases lasted that many XTC matches, at least 20 were lost in the weeds, but I am certain of the surviving cases, they went 22 reloads.

I don't recommend taking rifle brass that long because I found brass erosion in the bottom third of the case.

My brass life was limited by case neck cracks, body splits, enlarged pockets. Never had a case head separation, cases with brass flaws were sectioned, never the hint of a case head separation.

If you set up your sizing die with a cartridge headspace gage, bump the shoulder back .003" from a fired case, your brass will last a long time.

ReducedWilsongagemeasuringnew308bra.jpg
 
You've got most of the facts, I'll just reinforce that most of your cases will die from split necks so how we size 'em usually isn't a large factor for life OR accuracy.
 
Standard Dies- Full Length Sizing VS Neck Sizing.

Both FL & Neck sizing work the neck area the same in standard dies. One Exception is pushing the shoulder back to far on FL sizing, this can cause extra stretching in the body and possible case separations. Bottle neck rounds have failed in the neck area for me, never in the body or shoulder (when sized correctly). If you want long case life, try a bushing die or Lee Collet die. :)
 
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One Exception is pushing the shoulder back to far on FL sizing, this can cause extra stretching in the body and possible case separations.
This is the main cause of case head separations IMO (Assuming decent chambers). With proper sizing one rarely has that problem. I still check bottle necked rifle cases for signs of it, but cases wear out before it is a problem if sized properly every time.
 
I full length size all my bottle neck rifle cases except my BPCR cases. My 22-250 will crack in the neck before any other place or get lost in the field. New cases are not expensive and I keep a good stock on hand. Shooting is not the place where I cut corners to save a few cents. I'll take fewer showers and save on bath soap first.
 
"I've never had a split 22-250 neck. (One case separation) "

Three questions and a comment:

1. So, how many times have you cycled your .22-250 cases?

Many cases will typically last for 6-8 cycles before splitting, some a little longer, but they WILL split unless we take measures to prevent it.


2. What die do you use for resizing them?

All sizers, FL and neck, work the necks so they eventually harden and split. Lee's Collet Neck Die works necks the absolute minimum so cases last longer with it than any others.


3. Have you neck annealed those cases?

Work hardened necks (and bodies) split pretty quickly but we can easily soften the necks (NOT the bodies!) with a torch. If we anneal after maybe every 5th cycle the necks tend to last forever and body splits become the weak point.


Comment: Head seperations are due to case stretch and stretching in a bolt rifle is mostly due to "excess headspace". But headspace slop is easily compensated for. A proper case fit, head-to-shoulder, eliminates the loose fit and virtually prevents case stretching. All we have to do is find the minimum amount of shoulder set back required for snug but easy chambering and the risk of a head speration is greatly reduced.
 
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All we have to do is find the minimum amount of shoulder set back required for snug but easy chambering and the risk of a head speration is greatly reduced.
Worth repeating, and more clearly states what I first posted.
I would partial full length size to fit the chamber.
 
"I've never had a split 22-250 neck. (One case separation) "

Three questions and a comment:

1. So, how many times have you cycled your .22-250 cases?

Many cases will typically last for 6-8 cycles before splitting, some a little longer, but they WILL split unless we take measures to prevent it.


2. What die do you use for resizing them?

All sizers, FL and neck, work the necks so they eventually harden and split. Lee's Collet Neck Die works necks the absolute minimum so cases last longer with it than any others.


3. Have you neck annealed those cases?

Work hardened necks (and bodies) split pretty quickly but we can easily soften the necks (NOT the bodies!) with a torch. If we anneal after maybe every 5th cycle the necks tend to last forever and body splits become the weak point.


Comment: Head seperations are due to case stretch and stretching in a bolt rifle is mostly due to "excess headspace". But headspace slop is easily compensated for. A proper case fit, head-to-shoulder, eliminates the loose fit and virtually prevents case stretching. All we have to do is find the minimum amount of shoulder set back required for snug but easy chambering and the risk of a head speration is greatly reduced.
I use a Hornady FL sizing when i need it. For neck sizing, I use the Lee collet die. I sent about 120 cases to the trash the other day. I figures they had been loaded enough. Some were loaded 8 to 10 times. I checked some of them 1st and couldnt feel anything inside the case to make me think they were getting bad. Infact, i cut one apart using a small tubing cutter and it looked fine but since i have plenty of new cases, i retired them. I have never annealed a case, but am thinking about giving it a try. They are loaded with 35.0 and 35.2 (one savage and one Ruger) of IMR 8208XBR. Plus, I had a good ole boy from THR (thanks Walk) send me a tool to measure the cases when FL sizing so i know how much to size them. Guns are accurate and fast and the cases last long enough for me so what else could I ask for? lol
 
The partial-resize (what I do) piece has been covered ad nauseum so I'll skip that. The only thing I'll add is that I strictly use Norma brass in my 22-250. Fantastic stuff. Nice tight primer pockets that stay tight even with loads that are near the max (3800 fps with 52's). I figure I get about 6-7 reloads per case before the necks finally split. If I bothered annealing them, no telling how long they'd last. 10 reloads probably.

Anyway, just thought I'd throw that out there.
 
Ya'll must have chambers with generously sized (Diameter) necks, or the .22-250 is just harder on cases than the .223 or .222 Mag (handloaded), or your loading them BTTW, which may be the case, to get so many split necks at 6 to 8 firings. I have run some BTTW loads in .222 Mag with better case life.

No experience with .22-250 though.
 
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