Gemtech Outback II Upgrade

[Captains1911]

Gemtech offers an upgrade service to all original Outback II owners where they replace all the baffles with the most current design, clean, and make the suppressor user serviceable. They also offer the option to configure the baffle materials, like making the initial blast baffle stainless steel for ease of cleaning.

Has anybody done this with their older Outback II, and was it worth the cost? Also, is the $20 disassembly tool worth it?

http://www.gem-tech.com/store/pc/OUTBACK-UPGRADE-13p456.htm

 

[CoRoMo]

I don't have the Outback.

I would still see the value of cracking it for new internal material though. You could go with all Ti and the upgrade would only cost about the same as the can originally did. You'd basically have a new and improved suppressor and you didn't have to buy a stamp. I would not see the value in having it cracked, just to replace all the baffles with the new design, but still in aluminum. If I were to do it, I'd go all the way.

YMMV

As far as the tool, what does it look like? Surely the can is able to be disassembled without it.

 

[Captains1911]

I was more interested in having it made user serviceable than anything else. What is the value of all titanium baffles? Easier to clean?

As for the tool, I'm not sure, that's why I asked. If it's easy enough to take apart without the special tool then obviously I don't want to waste $20.

 

[rjrivero]

For .22, I don't think the titanium baffles are really worth the cost. Aluminum is already light, and they aren't all that terrible to clean. The only benefit would be that you can drop them in "the dip" and then get rid of that lead suspended in solution. User serviceable .22's are probably the only ones I would get anymore.

 

[Captains1911]

For .22, I don't think the titanium baffles are really worth the cost. Aluminum is already light, and they aren't all that terrible to clean.

How do you clean aluminum baffles? I've heard most common solvents will damage them.

 

[rjrivero]

Rotary Tumble with stainless media, water, dishwasher detergent, and Lemi-Shine. Just like you would tumble brass in a rotary wet tumbler.

I'm due for a cleaning next week. If I remember, I'll photo document the entire process. Easy to do and excellent results. The lead doesn't dissolve into the solution so it's much safer than the chemical dip methods out there.

 

[MasterSergeantA]

A lot (from some boards I read) of people are having them rebuilt with stainless steel for the first baffle as that one suffers most from the blast. The titanium is lighter, but I think using aluminum for the rest is more economical. That is my plan as soon as I get around to shipping my old one off.

 

[Mac Attack]

I did it several months back it it took just a day or two from when they received it before it was back in my hands. I started a thread here with pics if you wanted to read about my experience. One thing is they are not limiting their Outback IID upgrade to Outback IIs ad mine was an original Outback with m baffles
. Overall I am very happy with the upgrade and the sound difference is perceptive.

 

[Captains1911]

Do you have a link to that review? Thanks

 

[rjrivero]

A lot (from some boards I read) of people are having them rebuilt with stainless steel for the first baffle as that one suffers most from the blast. The titanium is lighter, but I think using aluminum for the rest is more economical. That is my plan as soon as I get around to shipping my old one off.

Does a stainless steel blast baffle really matter on a .22?

Do you have a link to that review? Thanks

I'm pretty sure THIS is it.

 

[Captains1911]

The stainless steel is just easier to clean from my understanding, and since it gets the dirtiest, its a good compromise.

 

[Mac Attack]

Thats my thread, thanks for posting it.

I have put several thousands of rounds through it since I received it back from Gemtech...pretty much shoot it every day and every weekend for sure. The factory recommended disassembly is after I think 150 rounds. The first few times I followed their recommended cleaning routine but lets face it, 150 rounds of .22 LR is not even one session of shooting for most of us. So I ran it over 1,500 rounds with a wet can before I decided to take it apart. Boy, what a mistake as I wasn't able to get it apart. Here is the thread where I sought out guidance on how to remove it
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=626951

Anyways, I pledged to never do that again and now shoot dry and clean after every 200 - 300 rounds which hasn't been a problem. I now also clean with a ultrasonic cleaner. I talked to a buddy of mine who works for AAC and he said that some carbon is good as it helps with sound suppression so I try not to take it down to silver when cleaning. BTW I did my research regarding different baffle materials. I initially thought about going all Ti, then thought about stainless steel blast and end baffles but in the end I found that aluminum offered more suppression so I went with aluminum.

Anyways, back to your question. I don't use a Gemtech tool. I use the tips of a pair of needle nose pliers to help turn the cap, but to be honest with you the $20 tool would be useful and I would purchase one if I could find one local.

 

[Captains1911]

Thanks guys, I sent it off today, I opted for the stainless steel blast baffle and the rest aluminum.

 

[aubie515]

I think the only reason GT is offering it because Liberty was offering retrofits.

http://libertycans.net/Retrofit.html

That being said, GT upgrade is less expensive, so I'll be sending mine in.