I can give some suggestions. It ain't difficult, really, but helps to have the proper equipment. Can you order from Midway overseas? If you can, you can get everything you need at a decent price. Not sure about shipping, of course.
http://www.midwayusa.com
The secret is in the temperature of the lead and mold block. I prefer aluminum mold blocks to iron because you can safely cool 'em by dunking an edge in water. Also, they're easier to keep clean. If the mold block gets too hot, it'll "frost" the balls/bullets, little air pockets and such. If the mold/lead is too cool it'll cause the lead to solidify too rapidly in the mold and create creases and folds in the bullet. Lee molds are aluminum and inexpensive. Handles are sold with the blocks Almost all of my molds are Lee.
Best way to control lead temperature is get a rheostat controlled lead pot. I prefer a bottom pouring pot, no ladles to worry about keeping hot. I use a Lee pot I got from Midway about 20 years ago. I have it set now and all I have to do is plug it in. The plunger that goes into the lead and controls the pour spout sorta gets in the way of big chunks of lead melting, but when it's full of lead, it pours to perfection. Fishing wheel weight tabs out of it can be a pain if they get behind that plunger, but no biggy. And, keep a pair of pliers, a paper clip, and a screw driver handy if that plunger doesn't seat proper. Sometimes you're lead flow won't quite shut off and you have to rod out the little hole with a paper clip (I hold it with the pliers to keep from getting burned) and wiggle the plunger with a screw driver to get the slag out of it and get it to seat. Not a big problem if you're prepared for it before you start pouring.
Now, I tumble lube my bullets with Lee liquid alox before sizing, however, with conicals for muzzle loading, I'm wondering if that'd be the ticket? I'm thinking I'll have to melt bees wax on 'em or something. Anyway, with balls, you don't need to worry about lube.
I cast bullets for all my firearms except for my center fire rifles and even there I have a 200 grain gas checked round nose in .308 caliber I've played with squib loads in my .308 with. Muzzle loading is just a natural for casting. I have a brass mold for my .31 that throws one conical and one ball per pouring, double cavity. Muzzle loaders often were accompanied by a mold block back in the day.