Getting some flyers, why?

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A long time user of Tikka (and Sako) rifles here. Don't ever use the factory rings that come with the Tikka's, they are not that good at all. I use Leupold, Warne, Talley, DNZ Products, Evolution Gun Works pic rail with Seekins Rings ect. IMHO about the best and simplest would be the Warne (they are pretty easy to get as well. http://www.midwayusa.com/Find?userSearchQuery=warne+tikka

Another thing to check is that the screws that hold the action to the stock are tight (60 in lbs).
 
I put new Warne rings on, a tip for anyone else, get the lows, as you need to bolt bases on to use any other ring.

I have a feeling (hope?) that tomorrow this baby shoots like it should!
 
The warne rings did not bolt to the dovetail, I had to bolt a dovetail to the action with slots in it for the rings to catch on. I got the medium rings, and they are a tad higher than the scope was before, thats why Im warning anyone that does this to go for the low rings.

Ill get pictures later and post them.
 
Well, initial report is great, just got in from the range, pattern is good, adjust scope, pattern is good. First time that has happened since I got the combo! Hopefully sat or sun I can put the scope on a nice buck!

Even long bombed one at 800 yards, cant wait until my turret arrives, guestimating 120" is hard, but I still hit it the target!
 
Scope mounting with Medium mounts, Id like to replace with lows so it looks better, but at this point probably wont...
 

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if you see thru it better you should definitely leave it alone LOL. I have actually put rings to short on one of my guns cause it "looked" better, only to have my groups open up cause i couldnt repeat my cheek weld and eye alignment properly.
 
Ok doubters, got it figured out I think. I knew it wasnt me, on the front of the action that fits into the stock there is a groove, and that keys into a metal piece in the stock for support. Whoever took it apart before I bought it, did not get it back into this groove! I can see wear mark on top of the metal where its been rubbing from shooting.

Last trip out after getting the gun into the stock like it should be, we were printing like I know I can do. Now to find time to lay down a good group and what this thing will do.

Advise to other tikka owners, get that action in the stock right! If yours is having flyers like mine did, take it apart and check it out!
 
Are you allowing the barrel to cool down some between shots? I shoot high powers all the time, and one of the easiest ways to get yourself frustrated with grouping is to shoot back to back rounds without a sufficient cool down. I've found 5 minutes between shots will keep the groups consistent.

As a matter of fact, I was out today with my 7 mags and got a little punchy and didn't allow any cool down time on one of my 5 shot groups and my group not only opened up significantly, but the group was also climbing because the cartridges were warming up, which caused them to gain velocity as well.
 
Game, you must not have read my post.

Ok doubters, got it figured out I think. I knew it wasnt me, on the front of the action that fits into the stock there is a groove, and that keys into a metal piece in the stock for support. Whoever took it apart before I bought it, did not get it back into this groove! I can see wear mark on top of the metal where its been rubbing from shooting.

Last trip out after getting the gun into the stock like it should be, we were printing like I know I can do. Now to find time to lay down a good group and what this thing will do.

Advise to other tikka owners, get that action in the stock right! If yours is having flyers like mine did, take it apart and check it out!
Click to expand...
 
if you shoot 5 shot groups all the time, and almost all of them are 4 shots in a bughole and one round 1/2min to 1 min away, that's not a flyer. that's a mental error.

If you shoot 5 shot groups all the time and almost all of them are 3 rounds touching and 2 rounds 1/2 to 1.5 min away, those aren't flyers, that's a group. you either need instruction or a better rifle and ammo

if you shoot 5 shot groups all the time and they're all sub-MOA, except this one group where one round went 1-2min away off-call, that's a flyer. it was probably caused by the ammo.


if you shoot 5 shot groups all the time and they used to all be sub-MOA, but now they're all 1-2 MOA and you haven't changed ammo, your barrel is probably shot out or you have a bedding or other issue. if it turned into a big group suddenly, it's probably something in your stock or crown. if you gradually started flinging an unexpected shot away from the others, it's probably your barrel. some speculate that this behavior is a result of the "dry lakebed" effect in the throat area where the gas from the propellant erodes the steel to the point that tiny pieces of it start chipping off and riding a bullet out the tube causing a flyer.

i dunno, but i'm on my 3rd bartlein barrel on my 260AI in 15 months now and though I don't shoot groups with it, that is how it starts behaving after 1500-2400 rnds (depending on how fast I'm pushing it) and replacing the barrel fixes it.
 
I get flier from cold barrel when I shoot my groups, its always a bit off from the rest. Also depends on the bullet brand, weight and charge capacity POI of cold shot is also different. When I shot this I used 139 gr Scenar and 140 gr Hornady SST, Scenars were loaded with H4350 and SST with RL-22. The first group on top was shot using 139gr Scenar bullets from cold barrel, minute later I spotted grasshopper landing just bellow my bottom target, it was head shot :evil: anyway 15 minutes later I shot the bottom target using 140 gr SST and I call first shot as a flier.

cbi6mmnorma19.jpg
 
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taliv, I'd imagine that the .260AI doesn't differ substantially from a run of the mill .260. I had no idea that a .260 would eat a throat that quickly. Is it just the throat or is the barrel really shot out?
 
on this particular barrel I get it from cold barrel and I didn't clean between shots, while it was cooling off I was shooting my other rifle, which doesn't produce cold barrel shot-fliers.

scaled.php


I think it has to do with bedding, action torque and harmonic vibrations from the cold barrel
 
Taliv, thank you for the link! I didn't take that picture until I got home from the range and mos of the guts which didn't print on that paper were gone, plus that grasshopper was longer then that target, probably locust of some sort, also if it was hit below the head there would probably be more stuff to look at.

cbi6mmnorma20.jpg
 
you're welcome DIM, you can post that pic to the other thread and we'll abort the hijack on this thread and get back to talking about flyers.... like, why is it that in the context of guns almost everybody spells it flyers, but in every other context it's fliers?
 
I hate to break it to you and others. There is no such thing as a "flyer" unless you're referring to the bullet flying and all bullets do that if they're going to make a hole.
Click to expand...

No such thing as a flyer? There's no such thing as group either. Just a shot pattern on a target.


From the Glossary of Shooting Terms . . .

Flyer ... A shot well outside the normal group on a target and not representative of the rifle or the cartridge's potential accuracy, almost always due to shooter error.
 
ZX10Aviator, you were worried about Stevens 223? Great shot, but I don't see fliers :) Since you fixed it already, I could suggest change its stock and trigger, the soft synthetic stock and Savage pre- accutrigger with almost uncontrolled weight of pull will produce fliers, by the way that bug got squished using 111 action which is identical to Stevens and riflebasix trigger and aftermarket prefit barrel.
 
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