Getting started .357 reloading during Covid times-many questions

[HereToLearn]

Hello Everybody,
First, thank you all for so readily sharing the things you have learned through experience that I certainly don't have yet. I think a big take away here is that I just need to slow down a little, load a bunch of mild loads with the components I have (keep an eye out for Trailboss, Bullseye, Unique, W231 and the like) and learn to shoot first before worrying about full magnum or hunting loads. I'll take all the advice and stick to .38 loads in .38 brass. I can see how all the practice I will get with reloading and shooting milder stuff with a greater margin of safety is smart. Thanks for all the links to resources, recommending gas checks, and taking it upon yourselves to help me find some .357 components. I have to remember if this is really going to be a "life sport" like I envision, its likely that component supply chain will return to normal sometime before I'm too old to get into shooting handguns (I'm 31). This is the first forum of any kind on which I have ever posted. You have made me a believer!

 

[Dudedog]

Lots of powders out there that would be a better choice to start with than Clays or H110/W296. (you have two extremes, fast burning -Clays, slow burning W296)
Let us know what you can find locally and I am sure we can chime in and let you know if it would be a good choice.
We all have our favorites, but most anything in the middle would be better to start with IMO.

This is the first forum of any kind on which I have ever posted. You have made me a believer!

I forgot to say welcome to THR, lots of great people here.
We do, on occasion offer good advice.

 

[FROGO207]

Yes, welclme to THR. It sounds like you have it figured out. Start out slow and work your way up. When things losen up that is the time to buy in bulk (within reason) to have a decent supply on hand of consumables. I like to keep what I think I'll use over 5 years stashed ahead. Now that you have the kit adding another caliber is as simple as a die set and consumables. I am always on the lookout for reloading manuals, even old ones will flesh out the reloading library. Happy loading.

 

[THEWELSHM]

The brass can take it, but it’s a bad idea in general to load .38 Spl cases to mag levels, be patient and find some .357 Mag cases.

With that being said Elmer Kieth did it a lot, but as Walkalong stated get 357 brass mate.

Thewelshm

 

[pairof44sp]

Hello all,
I have been a hunter and firearms enthusiast for about 15 years but have just purchased a .357 and reloading supplies this year (worst possible time to get into reloading, I know). I want to be safe in this new endeavor and have many questions regarding my hodgepodge assembly of components. The revolver is a Ruger SP101 4.2" .357. My goal is to become proficient enough to use this as a hiking personal protection sidearm for bears, big cats, 2-legged predators as well as for hunting jackrabbits, and eventually antelope and deer. I know many would have gone with a larger caliber, but I could not argue with the weight, strength and barrel length of the SP101. I also wanted something I could learn to shoot very proficiently. *I really don't want this to become a philosophical discussion about whether a headshot on a charging bear with hard cast from a .357 is really adequate or not. I have the budget for ONE handgun I will not be be buying another one or firing my handloads in any other firearms.*
This said, With COVID shortages I managed to get a box of 50 .357 mag bullets to use for for brass, 100 .38 special bullets, and an unopened package of 100 .38+p Starline brass. I found 2000 small magnum pistol primers, 1 lb of Clays powder, 1 lb of Win 296 powder, 250 HSC 158 gn hollowpoint plated bullets, 500 158 gn swc hard cast bullets, 100 180 gn XTP hollowpoints. I got a used single-stage Lee, RCBS carbide dies, Lee ram prime, Redding beam scale, and calipers. I could not find any .357 brass. I have loaded .30-06 with a LEE Loader hammer kit with good success.
Now to the questions:
1. Given that I have all this .38 special and +p brass, would it be unwise to attempt to load up higher pressure loads (with the 296 or Clays and magnum primers I have) to practice and get used to recoil in my .357? Can the brass take it?
Thoughts: -I've read about looking for signs of excessive pressure
-This would only be fired in MY Ruger .357. (I would mark them "FOR USE in .357 MAG ONLY")
-I find no published data for high pressure .38 special but I understand that there is some older high pressure data available.
2. I'm hoping to use the 158 gn hard cast loads as mountain protection and possibly for hunting but also figured the 180 gn XTP would be good for hunting. Do I need to load hard cast lead and jacketed bullets to a different velocity? I have read so many conflicting ideas about barrel leading I don't know who to believe.
3. Given COVID times and the limitations of my current supplies, how would you seasoned reloaders and shooters proceed with getting into shooting/reloading the .357 with the goals I have in mind? Am I missing something critical? Would you hold out to get a different powder?
Should I find someone to trade my .38+P brass for some proper .357 brass? Is the 50 .357 brass that I have enough to get by for awhile?

I appreciate any help in these matters and will be happy to clarify anything if needed.

Keep your 38 brass. It’s nice to have the two different lengths for hot and not so hot loads.

Also, if a slight thread hijack is permissible: I just loaded a couple hundred 357 magnum loads with regular pistol, not magnum primers. I haven’t noticed a difference yet. Is this a problem?

 

[Walkalong]

What powder?

 

[earplug]

Use data for a light to moderate 38 SPL target load. Best way to avoid developing a flinch is to shoot reduced loads.
Your training yourself to hit the target. Be nice to your revolver and your hands.

 

[Riomouse911]

Keep your 38 brass. It’s nice to have the two different lengths for hot and not so hot loads.

Also, if a slight thread hijack is permissible: I just loaded a couple hundred 357 magnum loads with regular pistol, not magnum primers. I haven’t noticed a difference yet. Is this a problem?

As was asked previously, what load? It depends on the powder and the load as some will light just fine with standard primers, others may be erratic.

Stay safe.

 

[Targa]

Wasn’t 357mag ultimately developed by Mr. Elmer Keith after blowing up guns loading .38spl to what would be .357mag levels? Loading .38 to .357mag levels is one history project I would be hesitant to recreate

 

[P Flados]

Use the 296 and load some full power loads using 357 brass (from your loaded ammo or any other source you can come up with). You really do not need a lot of 357 mag ammo at one time for now.

Hodgdon has a 180 with a 296 start of 13 gr and a max of 13.5. I loaded this info into Quickload and it says the Nosler 180 is 0.810" long giving a 0.525" seating depth with the Hodgdon 1.575" OAL.

Hodgdon has a Hornady158 XTP with a 296 start of 15 gr and a max of 16.7. Quickload has 2 different XTPs (a FP and a HP). One comes up with a seating depth of 0.385 and the other 0.374". Due to the confusion, I would try to get a seating depth in the range between the two above, start at 15.2 and do not go above 16.5.

After figuring out how the full power loads work out, I would use components you do not set aside for magnum and load "plinking / target practice" ammo with the Clays using published data for 38 SP (Hodgdon has a 3.1 gr under a 158).

I recently used 38 Sp brass for "load development" at 357 magnum pressures with a 180 gr bullet for a Henry rifle. However, once I figured out the 180 would work, I trimmed some 357 brass to 38 Sp length for regular loading of the high pressure ammo. I do not want high pressure ammo laying around in 38 Sp cases. It is not worth the risk. It could eventually result in gun damage and/or injury should some of this ammo find its way into the wrong gun.

Once you come up with more 357 mag brass, you may want to shop for a powder between the two that you have in order to work up a "stout mid range" 357 load. Reviewing the old pdf load manuals (link below) is a good way for comparing your options should you come across available powder for sale.

http://www.castpics.net/LoadData/Freebies/RM/Alliant.html

 

[kalielkslayer]

I’m just getting started loading 38/.357 so I won’t give you any loading advice after the experts have.

But I will tell you I have shot 100s of full powered .357 loads outta my SP101. And I don’t like them! It’s not just the felt recoil, the huge muzzle lift slows down the second shot considerably. I regularly time myself, 15 rounds (cylinder plus 2 speed loaders). Full power loads add +-2 seconds to my time. So I carry +P loads in that gun.

On a side note, I just replaced the grips on my 101. Lil harder to conceal, but I feel I have more control than with those tiny stock grips. Might even try full power .357 to see how much true difference they make.

 

[41 Mag]

Welcome to the rabbit hole...

Spend the funds for a hundred or so 357 cases, they will last quite a while. You also don't HAVE to load them full tilt, they can be loaded to 38+ and easily be just as effective.

As mentioned, if you can find powders locally throw out a list and we'll help you with good ones verses make do ones. The 296 is good for 357 loads using 150'ish gran and up, not so much for lighter. Yes Elmer Keith did extensive testing using 38 cases and if you do absearch you will find his favorite powder was 2400 once it came out. That said, nowadays there are other powders which work just as well or better and can be used for a wide variety of loads.

Also, pick up several manuals whether new or used, there is tons of data available for 38/357. Most of the data in the last 25yrs hasn't changed much for either and still uses most of the available powders. It is always a good idea to cross reference any of it with the latest manufacturer data, most of which can be found online.

Honestly just getting into it, I would start with 38 target loads, and get accustomed to your revolver. Clean the cylinder good after about every 50 rounds to keep a carbon or lube ring from getting established. It's a simple chore to run a brush thru each chamber. Once you get your 357 cases start bumping things up from there.

When I started hunting with handguns, it took almost a year to feel totally comfortable doing so. I've hunted since I was a tot and started with handguns in my 20's. I'm closing on 60 faster that I'd like but still feel LOTS of practice is priority if your going to take game animals. Start close 5-10yds and work you way out. It will take a while but it'll come if your determined and patient.

Good luck.

 

[P Flados]

FYI,

Just spotted a guy selling range pickup 357 Brass:

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?422181-WTS-brass-sale

 

[rfwobbly]

Welcome Aboard !

Mr HereToLearn -
First thing you'll learn about reloaders is that they are very generous with their time, knowledge and possessions. If you would simply put your locale in your profile, I bet someone would be willing to drive right over and drop some cases, bullets and brass on you, gratis. Maybe not all 3 from the same guy, but you never know.

Help us to help you.

Try it. And if you are near my locale, then count me in.