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H2oPumper

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I'm looking to get into reloading. I don't shoot enough to justify the investment, but I'm wanting to do so anyway. My reloading priority would be these calibers, in order: 280 Rem, 30-06, 270 Win, and 9mm. The kits I'm looking to get started are both Lee kits. My first look goes towards the classic turret kit that retails for 300 or the breech lock challenger kit as my other thought option.

I've seen the spectrum of prices of reloading equipment, but due to the amount I anticipate reloading in a year (<500/year), I'd like think a bit more economical on the equipment I start with; I can always change equipment if my reloading habits increase.

Bottom line, are these kits good ones to look at for starters based on the calibers I plan to reload?
 
You can make quality ammo on the Lee kits. I started on one and exclusivly used it for my first few years and still have it. You will need caliper's and a bullet puller in addition to the kit. I think it is a great starter, and recommend it to anyone who wants to get a start in the hobby. The press will last for years and years. The scale is good, and powder measure is accurate.
 
+1 for the Lee Classic (turret in my case).

+1 and then some for fsreloading! Those guys have always been quick on my orders, and being located right next to Lee Precision I have never seen them out of anything. No one beats their prices that I've found yet.
 
Lee dies are just fine. I am not a fan of their lock rings as they do not have a feature to lock the ring to the die, but if you get the turret press and turrets for each cartridge, the lock ring is a non issue. You change turrets instead of changing dies during a cartridge change and you then do not lose your die settings.

In the opinion of some, some of Lee specialty dies such as the Factory Crimp Dies are solutions looking for problems and not worth spending money on. Others swear by them.
 
I do have the factory crimp die for my 30-30. If you pick up the single stage you can get quick change bushings for it. I try to leave my bullet seater's alone after I adjust them and leave them in a QCB. I only use the crimp die on the 30-30 for the magazine feed, ensuring my bullets don't get pushed in during fireing or cycling in the Win Model 94. Other than that I don't use it for the other rifles.
 
I have the lee turret and lee LM. I'm reloading 9 mm, 38 spl and about to start 22-250. I like the turret better than the LM, but shoot a lots of 9mm and can load 190 rd in 10 minutes on the LM.
I have turrets with dies and powder measure for each caliber, I set them up once and then I can change caliber in less than 30 seconds on the turret press.
If you want to go single stage on the turret all you have to do is to remove the rod (remove turret, pull the rod out, put the turret back, less than 39 seconds...)

Sent from my EVO 3 D using Tapatalk
 
For the 280/7mm Express, I would have two choices for Lee dies. The one set is: Lee 7MM Express or 280 Remington Collet Die Set includes a Collet Die that uses a collet to squeeze a mandrel creating a precisely aligned case neck while reducing run out, Dead Length Bullet Seater Die, Shell Holder, Powder Dipper and Load Data and the other set is: Lee 7MM EXP Pacesetter 3-Die Set includes Full Length Sizing Die, Bullet Seating Die, Factory Crimp Die, Universal Shell Holder, Powder Dipper and Instructions/Load Data. I will be using the 280's in only one bolt action rifle (Ruger Hawkeye), which dies would be the most appropriate?

I wish I had someone to do some hands on training with for reloading, but for now it's gathering information here.
 
I recommend the Lee Classic CAST Turret. Get the kit from Kempf's GUn Shop as it has everything you need and not what you don't need (unlike all the other kits).

Why the LCT? It can be used as both a turret (even when doing rifle rounds) as well as a Single Stage (just take out the index rod)!! Get the best of both presses. Just be sure it's the CAST Turret (not the cheaper aluminum one) as it's the same frame material as the cast single-stage.

Be sure to get a couple of reloading books (ABC of reloading, lyman's 49th manual), read a lot and get a good powder scale and calipers...

And the addiction, er I mean, hobby, begins...:)
 
For the 280/7mm Express, I would have two choices for Lee dies. The one set is: Lee 7MM Express or 280 Remington Collet Die Set includes a Collet Die that uses a collet to squeeze a mandrel creating a precisely aligned case neck while reducing run out, Dead Length Bullet Seater Die, Shell Holder, Powder Dipper and Load Data and the other set is: Lee 7MM EXP Pacesetter 3-Die Set includes Full Length Sizing Die, Bullet Seating Die, Factory Crimp Die, Universal Shell Holder, Powder Dipper and Instructions/Load Data. I will be using the 280's in only one bolt action rifle (Ruger Hawkeye), which dies would be the most appropriate?

i like lee's collet neck die for my bolt actions, but you will eventually need a full length sizing die. for my bolt actions, i usually buy a 2 die RCBS set which includes a full length sizer and a bullet seating die. then i order a lee collet neck die to go along with the set. if i remember correctly, lee sells a 3 die rifle set with full length sizer, neck sizer, and bullet seater. they might also sell a 4 die rifle set with all 3 of those and a factory crimp die. i can't remember exactly.

neck sizing only is usually not suggested for semi-autos, so for my AR i got the lee pacesetter set like you mention. i like using the factory crimp die on my bulk plinking rounds with a cannelure.

lee dies do come with a shellholder, which makes lee die sets even more bang for the buck. they're the only sets i can think of that come with a shellholder.

all of my dies get hornady lock rings. i find that to be the most reliable way of holding a setting on a die. the RCBS dies use a brass setscrew to keep from messing up the die threads, but it strips easily and doesn't lock down tight enough in my experience. the lee lock rings use an o-ring and i found that bullet seating depths were more consistent when i removed the springy rubber o-ring lock ring and use the hornady.

what i'm getting at here is that it's a lot of personal preference in die selection. you have to play around with things and see what works for you. any die is only going to be as good as the guy who set it up.
 
Last week I ran into a JM stamped Marlin XS7Y 7mm-08 with my name on it and at the right price so I adopted it. Today, I happened into a store that was closing out Redding dies and they had a set for the 7MM-08 for $20, marked down from $35, so I grabbed them in anticipation. Question is, did I do alright and are these good dies? I'm slowly building my reloading bench, backwards.
 
Lee is the best bang for the buck out there. Their equipment will load excellent ammo if you do your part. For around $100 you can get what a single stage setup that will load one caliber, then add dies/shell holders for others. The turret kit will be more, but is much faster. Used equipment is always a way to save money when getting started.

Reloading equipment is not an investment, it is an expense we incur to be able to load our own ammo to our own specifications (within reason). You can save money if you are very careful, but 99% of us spend the same, or more, and simply shoot more. :)
 
I'm looking to get into reloading. I don't shoot enough to justify the investment, but I'm wanting to do so anyway. My reloading priority would be these calibers, in order: 280 Rem, 30-06, 270 Win, and 9mm. The kits I'm looking to get started are both Lee kits. My first look goes towards the classic turret kit that retails for 300 or the breech lock challenger kit as my other thought option.

I've seen the spectrum of prices of reloading equipment, but due to the amount I anticipate reloading in a year (<500/year), I'd like think a bit more economical on the equipment I start with; I can always change equipment if my reloading habits increase.

Bottom line, are these kits good ones to look at for starters based on the calibers I plan to reload?
$300? Kempf's gun shop (online) sells a Lee Classic Turret kit for $220 and it includes dies, press, primer dispensers (for large and small) and Pro Autodisk powder measure (in addition to a half-dozen ammo boxes). Add a manual or two and a scale and you are fully equipped to load in high style.

The Classic Turret (not the Deluxe Turret) will load all your calibers. It will be a single stage when you want it to be, for batch processing. For continuous processing (like a progressive) use the auto-indexing feature and you can crank out well over 100 rounds an hour - maybe twice that.

If you decide to go single stage only, I would make a comparision between the two Lee breechlock single stages, Challenger vs Classic Cast. The Classic Cast is iron. The Challenger is aluminum. Iron is more abrasion resistant than aluminum The Classic drops spent primers through the hollow ram into a tube, the Challenger drops them alongside the ram, potentially letting some escape to land on your floor. The linkage of the Classic Cast is stronger than the Challenger, which you will appreciate with the rifle cartridges. Though either will do the job very well, I would pick the Classic Cast if I went single stage.

Thanks for asking our advice

Lost Sheep
 
I'm looking to get into reloading. I don't shoot enough to justify the investment, but I'm wanting to do so anyway.
There are more reasons than economy to take up reloading.


Why reload?

Economy: Depending on what cartridges you are reloading (and whether or not you want to count your time and the up-front equipment costs) you can save anywhere from just a little to 80% or more of your ammo costs. (9mm is very close to no savings. 500 S&W, my friend's ammo costs are $0.75 per round, factory loaded ammo is $3.00 each for comparable ammo. More exotic calibers (especially rifle calibers) can save even more. Some rounds are not even available on a regular basis at any price.

Quality: Ammo you craft yourself can be tuned to your firearms particular characteristics. Handloaders for rifles quite often find some individual guns have quite striking differences in group size when shooting tuned ammunition.

Knowledge: As you study reloading, you will, perforce, also study internal ballistics. The study of internal ballistics leads into the study of how your firearm works.

Customization: Ammo you load yourself can be tuned to your particular needs. My fried with the 500 S&W loads full power loads and "powder puff" loads that clock 350 grain slugs a little under 800 feet per second. I know that's more than a G.I. 45 ACP's power and momentum, but they shoot like 22 rimfire in that big, heavy gun. Great for fun, familiarization, training and letting the curious bystander go for a "test drive" with a super-light load, a medium load, a heavy load and, if they are still game one of the big boomers. This tends to avoid the "rear sight in the forehead" mark.

Satisfaction: Punching small bunches of small, medium or large holes in paper or bringing down a game or food animal with ammunition you crafted yourself has a good deal of satisfaction. Same reason I prefer to make my own biscuits instead of store-bought.

Smug satisfaction: When the ammo shelves are bare during a market or political scare, loaders are demonstrably less affected by the shortages. A couple of pounds of powder, a thousand primers and bullets (or few pounds of lead) and a hundred cartridge cases wouldn't fill a small book carton, but lets the loader know he can shoot while price-gougers take advantage of non-loaders.

Self-satisfaction: The repetitive, calm, attentive concentration of the reloading activities is often found to be so much fun as to bring to the shooter's mind the question, "Do I reload so I can shoot shoot or do I shoot so I can reload?". Some find loading to be as satisfying a hobby as shooting or fly-tying or many other hobbies.

The more fanatical among us combine a couple of the features I have mentioned and, instead of shooting for bullseye accuracy at the range, reload in a search for the "magic load" that achieves perfection in a given rifle. Then, they move on to the next goal, another rifle and another tuned load. But you do have to be at least a little fanatical to even get it. It is the hunt they seek.


I am sure there are many other reasons, but these are the main ones I can think of.

Lost Sheep
 
Classic Cast (or turret), not challenger. You mostly have large rifle calibers. I use RCBS, Lyman, Hornady and Lee (PITA) dies. Any scale but Lee. HF digital mic. Brass for 9mm is cheap, primers and bullets are not(cheaper to get factory ammo on sale). I can easily powder and seat 100 rifle or pistol in an hour on a single stage press, but I decap, clean, inspect and prime separately.
 
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