Glock aftermarket triggers

[Palladan44]

Like the title said, any suggestions on Glock aftermarket Triggers? Still must be safe for carry, as I'm sure most of them are.
The factory trigger are pretty coarse on my trigger finger when I'm doing 200-300 rounds in a range session. Fairly sharp, and sends a "stinger" through my finger.
Lighter pull is a bonus....

 

[Jim Watson]

Glock now has their own Performance Trigger which I have READ is an improvement. Selling fast and finding one might be the trick.
Timney makes a trigger group that has been well received.

Otherwise there are several brands of souped up Glock parts and copies.
All I have is the Overwatch Precision connector which is a Glock "minus" part that has been polished and NP3 plated. Better than stock but not a huge improvement.

 

[Coyote3855]

I recently installed a Johnny Glock trigger on a G48. Smooth trigger face. Integral safety also smoother than stock. Reduced take up and provided a smooth break but still average 5.3 pounds of pull. Significant improvement over the stock trigger. I have "minus" connectors in a G43 and G28. IMHO, the Johnny Glock made the most difference in the "feel" of the trigger.

 

[Jim Watson]

Johnny talks a good game, but his stuff is expensive. But then so are Vanek and others.

 

[Palladan44]

I have one on my G40 MOS which I believe is called an Alpha? It's flat faced and much nicer than the factory part.

 

[Riomouse911]

If you are talking about just the trigger itself, all my Glocks but three have had the factory trigger replaced with a Vickers Tactical flat trigger.



Easy swap out and the trigger feel is much improved over stock.

I also use a Wolff 5.0 pound striker spring, which is a half pound less than stock, and a reduced power plunger spring in all my pistols. This little 6 dollar swap makes the triggers much more pleasant without a sacrifice to primer ignition reliability or making triggers ultra light.

I normally don’t swap disconnectors or sear parts, but I did run into an issue when building my desert camo Glock 17. The OEM parts just didn’t want to reset correctly, so an Apex trigger and parts kit was tried. It worked perfectly, and all is fine.

The Gen 5 Glocks have much nicer trigger faces, I left the Glock 45 and 19X triggers alone.

Just a suggestion after trying them on a few Glocks.

Stay safe.

 

[mpofficer31a]

This is a more complex question than it seems. Do you have a small frame or large frame Glock? In my experience they're different enough to need to be modified differently. (Mostly due to the larger strike size).

Most trigger modifications are designed to reduce weight of pull, but Glocks can have a pronounced 'wall' before let-off/striker release. Some mods can reduce that wall along with the trigger weight, some don't. Some mods can make that wall more pronounced, but reduce trigger weight overall.

In order to really dial-in a Glock trigger to what you want, you may need to modify the trigger shoe, connector, trigger spring, striker spring and firing pin safety plunger spring. You can also polish the safety plunger or get a new lighter safety plunger. (I'd avoid titanium safety plungers.)

Overall, I'd get a ZEV or Timney kit. But, you can buy all the parts to modify it for yourself nearly the same money and then dial it in the way you want.

In a Gen3/4 small frame, I like a Lone Wolf adjustable trigger shoe, 4.0lbs striker spring, 3.0 Double Diamond or 3.5 factory minus type connector, 6.0lbs trigger spring and reduced weight firing pin plunger spring. I use Wolff springs.

 

[mpofficer31a]

And. One final point. I would not modify it if you're carrying it.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

I have the Apex Tactical trigger in my Glock 48, and really like it. The gun is also my EDC.

I have some other triggers in a couple of Glocks and Glock clones, but the are more for target shooting.

 

[StrykerByte.45]

I have a Glock 30S, large frame sub compact SF. Being a .45, I use a extra power striker spring which makes the trigger pull heavier. I remedy the stronger pull with a softer wall by using a 3.5lbs(3lbs can be used also) trigger connector and a 6lbs Trigger spring to aid the trigger pull. I also am using the lighter Safety Pin Spring. All these parts are made by Ghost, but can be found as Glock factory parts for about 2 to 3 times higher price. It is a DIY but your LGS can install them for a very low price, for free if you buy the parts from them. The Ghost parts cost me about $30 in total. The factory trigger stays because I actually like it. A flat face trigger is a preference. My Lyman trigger gauge says 4.9lbs consistently and the trigger feels just as good as a modern striker fired pistol like the M&P Shield Plus. I have had these parts 3 years with the factory 5.5lbs spring until I decided to move up to the 6 almost a year ago. Ghost is utterly reliable.
Usually people want to make the trigger lighter by throwing in a lighter striker spring, but this can result in light primer strikes. If you want the lightest trigger possible you will need to know how to swap the striker spring at the range and afford enough ammo that you intend to use(or carry) to rule out which one is too light. In a .45, I experienced light primer strikes with a 5lbs, factory is 5.5lbs, I currently use a 6lbs. I am considering a 6.5lbs striker spring next with a 3lbs connector to see how that feels, function should not be a problem. A range employee told me my trigger was "so good" and my daughter loves it also. I honestly think you can start by swapping to a factory minus connector ($30) and see how that feels for you.

 

[TacticalJanitor]

The Overwatch Polydat is a good choice with an NP3-plated minus connector, and it doesn't cost a billion dollars. I have short fingers, and medium-frame Glock OEM triggers (Gen 5) give me a wicked callous on my trigger finger when dry firing repeatedly. The Polydat fixed that.

But, the Polydat makes the break heavier on my Glocks. It's tough to explain. The takeup is shorter, and there is a wall. Not a Glock wall (spongy and stiffer)..but a wall. It tends to drive the barrel down for me, which leads to shooting low unless I really concentrate.

Though the Polydat felt better, my groups were worse than a factory, OEM, non-modified Glock trigger. Keep in mind that I spend many thousands of rounds between OEM and Overwatch to compare them. Couldn't make up my mind for a long time.

I hate to sound like a Fudd, but OEM Glock is the only way to go unless you are gaming with it. Just use it the way Glock made it. It will work if you take the time to get used to it.

Nothing wrong with accessorizing though.