LiveLife
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918v said:
Really?
Glock barrel vs Storm Lake Barrel
- Thread starter twoblink
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Really?
Just to add to the constructive points made: aftermarket barrels, are generally having tighter chamber tolerances than the Glock factory.
They may be needing more shooting at first to find 100% reliability as with the OEM barrel. Though sold as "drop in" you nay have to still do a "shoot-in".
You might ask: Why get an aftermarket barrel that needs break-in and testing? So, here's my scenario of one Glock I purchased, how it worked/didn't work, and what I did.
Bought a gen. 2 G24C on GunBroker: came with OEM barrel, and a KKM 7" with a compensator on it. .40 cal.. The pistol would have FTF and FTE problems using Georgia Arms canned heat re-loads. Start seeing these scenarios as opportunities for problem solving and for training.
Tap/roll/rack is the standard method for clearing these malfunctions-this is a skill to master, build speed with time. These malfunctions are standard with any semi-auto pistol, at any time, as these pistols are just machines built by people shooting ammo. which also have components which fail. There is no "Perfection" until the threat is stopped.
The RSA assembly on said pistol was OEM, and I simply deduced that the extra mass of the longer barrel with the compensator needed a different RSA. Here was the "opportunity" to open an account with Wolff and get an RSA that was just 1# lighter than the OEM RSA. Cleared up the problems.
I'm not telling you to sell the Glock, but just throwing parts at it from the aftermarket is not the cure, and is sometimes more frustrating as money floats out the window. Setting the factory test casings into the chamber throat of the SL barrel won't tell you a thing about how it performs-makes a great photo. comparo. that is contrasting, but is indicative of nothing more than that.
How does it shoot with the SL barrel?
They may be needing more shooting at first to find 100% reliability as with the OEM barrel. Though sold as "drop in" you nay have to still do a "shoot-in".
You might ask: Why get an aftermarket barrel that needs break-in and testing? So, here's my scenario of one Glock I purchased, how it worked/didn't work, and what I did.
Bought a gen. 2 G24C on GunBroker: came with OEM barrel, and a KKM 7" with a compensator on it. .40 cal.. The pistol would have FTF and FTE problems using Georgia Arms canned heat re-loads. Start seeing these scenarios as opportunities for problem solving and for training.
Tap/roll/rack is the standard method for clearing these malfunctions-this is a skill to master, build speed with time. These malfunctions are standard with any semi-auto pistol, at any time, as these pistols are just machines built by people shooting ammo. which also have components which fail. There is no "Perfection" until the threat is stopped.
The RSA assembly on said pistol was OEM, and I simply deduced that the extra mass of the longer barrel with the compensator needed a different RSA. Here was the "opportunity" to open an account with Wolff and get an RSA that was just 1# lighter than the OEM RSA. Cleared up the problems.
I'm not telling you to sell the Glock, but just throwing parts at it from the aftermarket is not the cure, and is sometimes more frustrating as money floats out the window. Setting the factory test casings into the chamber throat of the SL barrel won't tell you a thing about how it performs-makes a great photo. comparo. that is contrasting, but is indicative of nothing more than that.
How does it shoot with the SL barrel?
LiveLife
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What Glock model KKM barrel was it?
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