Glock Oiling, How Dry

[JTQ]

I'm not really clear on why Glocks should be treated differently than any other gun when it comes to lube. A little light oiling, and regular cleaning and the thing should run like a top.

Because you need more lube for a metal framed gun than you'd typically use on a polymer striker framed gun.

There is a huge emphasis on keeping lube out of the striker channel on Glock's. For those that started shooting guns before Glock's became a thing, lubricating the firing pin or firing pin channel is common practice.

These days, because so many folks began their shooting lives with Glock's, folks often under-lube other firearms, which can often cause malfunctions in these guns because they need more lube than a Glock would. This mindset of minimum lube prompted Larry Vickers to produce this video.

 

[sgt127]

I always thought the G35 would be a little too big for duty use. Did officers have any issues sitting down in patrol cars with the longer barrel?

A lot of us were carrying 1911’s anyway. So, the length difference wasn’t too great.

I carried my 1911 in a custom Milt Sparks duty holster that rode very high.

The Glock 35’s were issued with a mid ride Safariland. And, it carried OK.

CID and smaller Officers could opt for an issue Glock 23 though.

 

[dodo bird]

A lot of us were carrying 1911’s anyway. So, the length difference wasn’t too great.

I carried my 1911 in a custom Milt Sparks duty holster that rode very high.

The Glock 35’s were issued with a mid ride Safariland. And, it carried OK.

CID and smaller Officers could opt for an issue Glock 23 though.

Thanks for the info. I always wanted a G35 just for fun. I don’t think I would be carrying it though. I always found the 19/23/32 ideal size for most anyone.

 

[sgt127]

Thanks for the info. I always wanted a G35 just for fun. I don’t think I would be carrying it though. I always found the 19/23/32 ideal size for most anyone.

The 35’s shot exceptionally well. It’s a good gun. The 19/23 is unquestionably easier to carry.

After 10 years, we traded in the 35’s for 22’s. Again, perfectly good guns.

I got to keep both of mine. They have my badge number as a part of the serial number. 35’s were three random letters, but, they ordered a block with all our badge numbers.

The 22 was a special run with dept initials and badge number. XXPD127 as the serial number.

For play, if you like Glocks, I’d get a 34.

 

[Rule3]

My goodness!! 54 posts on Glock lubrication. How difficult can it be for Glocks or any of the other clones.

When in doubt, RTFM (F is freaking)

OK class, lets read pages 25 to 30. There is not a lot to it!! A few drops!

The PDF is to large to download.

Downloadable Materials

Download materials to help with your GLOCK purchase and more.

us.glock.com

Cleaning Your GLOCK

Proper cleaning and lubrication prevents corrosion and removes accumulated dirt and debris that can affect your pistol’s operation. Check the owner’s manual for your GLOCK model for where to apply lubricant and how much to apply.
NOTE: Applying the correct amount of lubrication is key. Too much lubrication can affect the pistol’s performance.
Each time you clean your GLOCK pistol, it should be field-stripped (disassembled into its major components).

__________________

 

[Gun-Reck]

The 35’s shot exceptionally well. It’s a good gun. The 19/23 is unquestionably easier to carry.

After 10 years, we traded in the 35’s for 22’s. Again, perfectly good guns.

I got to keep both of mine. They have my badge number as a part of the serial number. 35’s were three random letters, but, they ordered a block with all our badge numbers.

The 22 was a special run with dept initials and badge number. XXPD127 as the serial number.

For play, if you like Glocks, I’d get a 34.

Have a G23.4, with an LWD 5.3" barrel chambered in 357Sig.

.40/180 gr. subsonics, and .355/147 gr. Hornady Custom XTP at over 1300 fps for the field.

Couldn't be happier.

 

[Gun-Reck]

My goodness!! 54 posts on Glock lubrication. How difficult can it be for Glocks or any of the other clones.

When in doubt, RTFM (F is freaking)

OK class, lets read pages 25 to 30. There is not a lot to it!! A few drops!

The PDF is to large to download.

Downloadable Materials

Download materials to help with your GLOCK purchase and more.

us.glock.com

Cleaning Your GLOCK

Proper cleaning and lubrication prevents corrosion and removes accumulated dirt and debris that can affect your pistol’s operation. Check the owner’s manual for your GLOCK model for where to apply lubricant and how much to apply.
NOTE: Applying the correct amount of lubrication is key. Too much lubrication can affect the pistol’s performance.
Each time you clean your GLOCK pistol, it should be field-stripped (disassembled into its major components).

__________________

Not sure about that.

For some reason, am compelled to keep up on the latest techniques.

​

Could just be me.

 

[Alaskamike]

Because you need more lube for a metal framed gun than you'd typically use on a polymer striker framed gun.

There is a huge emphasis on keeping lube out of the striker channel on Glock's. For those that started shooting guns before Glock's became a thing, lubricating the firing pin or firing pin channel is common practice.

These days, because so many folks began their shooting lives with Glock's, folks often under-lube other firearms, which can often cause malfunctions in these guns because they need more lube than a Glock would. This mindset of minimum lube prompted Larry Vickers to produce this video.

No, not really. I think you must have read a different post entirely before you replied to mine.

I mentioned light oiling and cleaning. I never said anything about lubing the firing pin or channel, so I'm not sure why you're bringing that up. Maybe others have said that, but I never have.

The fact that a Glock is a polymer framed pistol has no real bearing here. All the critical surfaces that need lubing are metal on metal, regardless of whether the gun is metal framed or polymer framed. Here's another way to look at it--what metal to polymer interfacing surfaces are there on a Glock that encounter high velocity sliding or rotational forces?

I will grant you that when the Glock first came out there was a lot of overly optimistic talk about minimalistic lubing, and that still probably carries forward to today.

You really don't need more lube for a metal framed gun vs. a polymer framed gun.

 

[JTQ]

No, not really. I think you must have read a different post entirely before you replied to mine.

I mentioned light oiling and cleaning. I never said anything about lubing the firing pin or channel, so I'm not sure why you're bringing that up. Maybe others have said that, but I never have.

I brought up the firing pin and firing pin channel, because you don't lube the striker or striker channel on a Glock, but most folks, at least those old enough to not have started their shooting lives with a striker fired gun, will lubricate the firing pin and the firing pin channel. That is different.

You really don't need more lube for a metal framed gun vs. a polymer framed gun.

The amount of lube on the metal frame SIG P-Series gun is the same amount of lube you'd use on your Glock? https://www.apextactical.com/blog/random-apex/sig-sauer-internal-lubrication/

I'm primarily a 1911 guy, with the introduction of the inexpensive Tisas line-up (and before that with the inexpensive RIA guns), there have been a lot of folks that have spent their entire shooting lives with polymer framed striker guns jumping into the $500 1911 pool. Almost all of these folks new to the 1911, seem to be experiencing malfunctions with their new guns.

It's not a 100% solution, but almost all of these problems are fixed once these folks learn to stop lubing their 1911's like a Glock, and start putting sufficient lube on these metal framed guns.

 

[trackskippy]

That link to the SIG lubing seems a bit overboard.

I really don't lube things all that differently these days. I quit using grease, even with my SIG's, and it hasn't been an issue.

Compared to my Glocks, I might use a couple more drops of oil in things like my 1911's, SIG's, Berettas, etc., but I don't go crazy. If anything, its the rails that get the extra drops, and even so, you wont see oil oozing out anywhere when Im done, on any of them.

From what you often hear, I do think people tend to go way overboard when it comes to lubing their guns though. If you see stuff oozing out or flying off the gun when you shoot, you need to back off a good bit on the application.

 

[JTQ]

The fact that a Glock is a polymer framed pistol has no real bearing here. All the critical surfaces that need lubing are metal on metal, regardless of whether the gun is metal framed or polymer framed. Here's another way to look at it--what metal to polymer interfacing surfaces are there on a Glock that encounter high velocity sliding or rotational forces?

Glock has four little frame tabs/rails that are steel. A SIG P226 has full length frame rails that are aluminum. Glock contact points are very small and steel on steel. A SIG P226 has large contact surfaces that are steel slide running on an aluminum frame rails. If you don't use enough or proper lube you'll have problems with your SIG P226, either in function or wear.

 

[GRIZ22]

I have a technique thats worked for me for years on all semiautomatics not just Glocks.

I put a few drops of Breakfree on all moving parts. I then take a brush and spread it. Just so it's shiny, not wet. It's worked for me for about 40 years on all semiautomatics.

 

[Bazoo]

I give a small drop down each slide rail, a drop on the barrel that gets wiped all over, a mini drop or a smear on the sear and striker. Pretty much dry everywhere else.

 

[Peakbagger46]

The optimal amount of oil varies some under the conditions of use. My Glock gets open carried in a mostly dry but also dusty environment so I use very little oil.

Were I going to the range and firing a few hundred rounds a little more would reduce wear. That said, wear is low down on the list of concerns as it’s an issued gun and not my investment.

 

[DesertFox]

Glock don't care, like honey badger! Wet, dry, steel cases, seen some very questionable ammo just gobbled up by a Glock, no questions asked...

 

[Alaskamike]

Glock has four little frame tabs/rails that are steel. A SIG P226 has full length frame rails that are aluminum. Glock contact points are very small and steel on steel. A SIG P226 has large contact surfaces that are steel slide running on an aluminum frame rails. If you don't use enough or proper lube you'll have problems with your SIG P226, either in function or wear.

You keep bringing up things that are not relevant to the original post.

I get what you're saying about the need for better lube on steel vs. Aluminum surfaces. I do typically provide better lube for my aluminum framed handguns.

However, that has absolutely nothing to do with your original claim:
(Please excuse my poor HTML quoting technique here)

JTQ says:
"Because you need more lube for a metal framed gun than you'd typically use on a polymer striker framed gun."

No. Just No. You just don't need more lube for a metal framed gun than you'd typically use on a polymer striker framed gun.

 

[gbw]

Those bottles, while small, can still apply too much and it's sometime hard to know when the flow will begin.

I've gone to putting a drop or 2 on the bench. Dip a small wire into it. then touch the wire to what is to be oiled. Like the old carbine oiler.

 

[StrykerByte.45]

I leave totally dry. I only wipe with Aerosol Ballistol or CLP. Wipe with a dryish cloth. Maybe dab some rem oil on my fingertip and spread around the barrel or recoil spring. I would start with no oil, shoot at the range and see how long it lasts. I have shot 300rds with 0 issues, wiped clean and was ready to go another 300 rounds.

 

[trackskippy]

I understand leaving things "dry" in certain situations, but if the manufacturer has and recommends a lube schedule, they're doing so for a reason, and its probably best to follow it.

Moving metal on metal parts need some sort of lube or you're going to get accelerated wear. Im pretty sure that's an accepted fact. If you only shoot the gun 300 rounds every once in a while across the year, you're going to have different results compared to someone shooting 300 rounds a week, every week.

300+ rounds was what I was usually shooting out of one of the Glocks I use in practice each week and did so for 10 years or so before a rail finally gave out. All the rails had worn sharp on the edges and I sliced a finger or two on them while cleaning it too. And that was following Glocks lube schedule.

Be interesting to see how long the same gun would have run/lasted under the same conditions with no lube. That gun made it to 150K before the rail broke. Im still shooting whats left of the original gun too after it was rebuilt, the slide and barrel, and the barrel has a smiley on it you can "feel" when you run your fingernail across it, and those are somewhere up over 200K now. Still lubing it the same too.

 

[C0untZer0]

I love lubrication threads

Grant Cunningham's article:

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

Corrosion tests:

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

For people who like to mix their own stuff up:

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm