hey guys ive got a glock 17 and imwanting to paint the grip maybe tan or OD green... i know theres a od green model and what not but i got a good deal on it so any suggestions??? and also when i shoot it is shooting a little left... not sure if this is due to me being left handed or what not... it keeps a tight group every time just to the left a little... or maybe i need to push the sites??? and im also thinking about buying heine straight 8 sites these any good???
glock paint
- Thread starter chriso
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Acera
Member
Try this website, they should have enough finishes for you to find the one you want.
http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/
http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/
Acera
Member
I don't think I would put Krylon on a firearm. But that is just me, I prefer products made especially for the application I am using it on. It might work, I don't think you could do any permanent damage.
I googled Duracoat, and got a lot of responses.
This was one of the first specialty coating services for firearms that came up.
http://www.unitedarmsonline.com/index.html
There are plenty out there if you want to pay a pro. You asked about Krylon, and I am thinking you might want to do it your self. Then get one of the Duracoat kits and put it on yourself, with maybe a pattern from them.
I googled Duracoat, and got a lot of responses.
This was one of the first specialty coating services for firearms that came up.
http://www.unitedarmsonline.com/index.html
There are plenty out there if you want to pay a pro. You asked about Krylon, and I am thinking you might want to do it your self. Then get one of the Duracoat kits and put it on yourself, with maybe a pattern from them.
CountGlockula
Member
As for shooting to the left, while your left handed...have you tried easing it up on the trigger? Next time, slowly pull the trigger and watch for trigger control. Great choice!
Taurus92 in KyleTX
Member
I just applied DuraCoat to a set of Sig plastic/polymer grips.
A couple of things...
The quality of the coating seems to be sound.
The quality of the "value sprayer" that they offer for like $10 with purchase of a 4oz bottle is not sound. The thing quit on me when trying to finish coating the second grip (and I only did one side of each!)
The color in the bottle was not the color ordered or what was labeled on the bottle. (Or, their website pics are grossly misrepresentative.)
Shame on me for not being more leary of the color discrepancy before spraying and just _assuming_ that the color might alter through the bonding process.
(Heck, I'd never used the stuff before.)
My advice?
Get the DuraCoat ONLY if you have professional airbrush equip, or are willing to spend money on such. Then, plan on spending add'l $$ on thinner/cleaner, so as not to ruin your gear.
OR, plan on buying multiple value sprayers at the risk of not fully covering what you want to coat.
OR, get a pro to do it.
Finally, make darn sure the color is what you want. Hint: the color doesn't change through any chemical bonding process.
Also, price check what it would cost to either a) have it redone professionally or b) get whatever you coat replaced, should it not come out to your liking.
Of course, YMMV.
A couple of things...
The quality of the coating seems to be sound.
The quality of the "value sprayer" that they offer for like $10 with purchase of a 4oz bottle is not sound. The thing quit on me when trying to finish coating the second grip (and I only did one side of each!)
The color in the bottle was not the color ordered or what was labeled on the bottle. (Or, their website pics are grossly misrepresentative.)
Shame on me for not being more leary of the color discrepancy before spraying and just _assuming_ that the color might alter through the bonding process.
(Heck, I'd never used the stuff before.)
My advice?
Get the DuraCoat ONLY if you have professional airbrush equip, or are willing to spend money on such. Then, plan on spending add'l $$ on thinner/cleaner, so as not to ruin your gear.
OR, plan on buying multiple value sprayers at the risk of not fully covering what you want to coat.
OR, get a pro to do it.
Finally, make darn sure the color is what you want. Hint: the color doesn't change through any chemical bonding process.
Also, price check what it would cost to either a) have it redone professionally or b) get whatever you coat replaced, should it not come out to your liking.
Of course, YMMV.
Taurus92 in KyleTX
Member
sorry, double post
Alumahyde Camo Paint.
I've never actually used Duracoat, but I just got finished with this FEG AP 7.65 pistol that I painted two colors (O.D. Green and Matte Black) in kind of a Duo-Tone finish using Alumahyde camo paint.
http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=376058
I also did this in Alumahyde.
http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=365601
Try Alumahyde out, it's actually fairly easy to work with just so long as you're patient and just so long as you follow the directions. No matter what you decide to use make sure you degrease REALLY well (Acetone and Break Cleaner is what I use).
You can buy the Alumahyde paint at Brownells.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1117
It comes in these colors.
I've never actually used Duracoat, but I just got finished with this FEG AP 7.65 pistol that I painted two colors (O.D. Green and Matte Black) in kind of a Duo-Tone finish using Alumahyde camo paint.
http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=376058
I also did this in Alumahyde.
http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=365601
Try Alumahyde out, it's actually fairly easy to work with just so long as you're patient and just so long as you follow the directions. No matter what you decide to use make sure you degrease REALLY well (Acetone and Break Cleaner is what I use).
You can buy the Alumahyde paint at Brownells.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1117
It comes in these colors.
Robert Hairless
Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2003
- Messages
- 3,983
Chriso, the color in a Glock frame is mixed into the material before the frame is molded. So if you scrape or scratch the frame the original color is still there.
When you paint the frame, the painted color remains on the surface. It can look good but when you scrape or scratch the frame its original black will stick out like a sore thumb. After a while it's bound to look like a scruffy mess if you use the gun as it's meant to be used.
It's meant to withstand rough handling and tough situations. Sin might be uglier than a Glock but not by much. Painting it is like putting lipstick on a pig. Nobody is going to think she's the prom queen except another pig.
I think that the Glock is very good at what it does but a Glock is a hard use industrial tool. It's your gun so what you do with it is your call. Be aware, though, that in time you might find yourself with an exceptionally ugly Glock even amongst Glocks. Then you're going to have to face the problem of how to remove that paint even if you want to do a touchup. If I were in that position I'd be very unhappy.
When you paint the frame, the painted color remains on the surface. It can look good but when you scrape or scratch the frame its original black will stick out like a sore thumb. After a while it's bound to look like a scruffy mess if you use the gun as it's meant to be used.
It's meant to withstand rough handling and tough situations. Sin might be uglier than a Glock but not by much. Painting it is like putting lipstick on a pig. Nobody is going to think she's the prom queen except another pig.
I think that the Glock is very good at what it does but a Glock is a hard use industrial tool. It's your gun so what you do with it is your call. Be aware, though, that in time you might find yourself with an exceptionally ugly Glock even amongst Glocks. Then you're going to have to face the problem of how to remove that paint even if you want to do a touchup. If I were in that position I'd be very unhappy.
makarovnik
Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2006
- Messages
- 1,678
Strip it good, rough it up and use Rustoleum plastic primer on the frame. Then go to town with a good tough paint. I'm not real impressed with the Krylon Fusion.
re: sights - just about anything will be a tremendous improvement over the factory slotfillers.
I like the Heinie 8s alot, but be aware that the finish on those sights requires a bit more maintainence than the finish on the rest of the gun
. I have a strong aversion to cleaning my Glocks and managed to rust two sets of Heinies before discovering Boeshield.
I like the Heinie 8s alot, but be aware that the finish on those sights requires a bit more maintainence than the finish on the rest of the gun
. I have a strong aversion to cleaning my Glocks and managed to rust two sets of Heinies before discovering Boeshield.
W.E.G.
Member
Just plunge it into a can of green paint, fire a "stick," shake it off, and call it good.
If still unsure, please review.
http://splodetv.com/33-rounds-underwater
If still unsure, please review.
http://splodetv.com/33-rounds-underwater
Joe Demko
Member
If you paint it yourself, no matter what paint you use, your results will largely be a result of how well you prepped the frame before you painted.
Several years ago, I was given (for free) a Llama .45. The finish was destroyed by the poor thing having spent several years under the seat of a truck in a cheap leather holster.
I detail stripped it; then I removed what remained of the bluing with a bottle of "rust destroyer" from the auto parts store. Followed that with a thorough rinse and degreasing. I then primed the slide and frame and gave each several coats of bronze-colored Krylon, baking each coat under a heat lamp while drying. I followed that with a coat of clear, matte polyurethane which I also baked under a heat lamp.
The piece came out looking perfectly presentable. Far better than it had looked anyway. The finish held up for the year or so I kept the gun. I gave it to my brother who has it still, and he reports that there has been no chipping or other degredation. He carries it in the field (he's a geologist for Big Oil) and doesn't baby it particularly. Nor should he, given the approximately $20 invested in it.
Bottom line? Despite the nay-sayers, you can paint a gun at home and get good results even without buying magical, expensive paints and equipment. Don't skimp on the preparation, no matter what you use.
Several years ago, I was given (for free) a Llama .45. The finish was destroyed by the poor thing having spent several years under the seat of a truck in a cheap leather holster.
I detail stripped it; then I removed what remained of the bluing with a bottle of "rust destroyer" from the auto parts store. Followed that with a thorough rinse and degreasing. I then primed the slide and frame and gave each several coats of bronze-colored Krylon, baking each coat under a heat lamp while drying. I followed that with a coat of clear, matte polyurethane which I also baked under a heat lamp.
The piece came out looking perfectly presentable. Far better than it had looked anyway. The finish held up for the year or so I kept the gun. I gave it to my brother who has it still, and he reports that there has been no chipping or other degredation. He carries it in the field (he's a geologist for Big Oil) and doesn't baby it particularly. Nor should he, given the approximately $20 invested in it.
Bottom line? Despite the nay-sayers, you can paint a gun at home and get good results even without buying magical, expensive paints and equipment. Don't skimp on the preparation, no matter what you use.
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