Going Overbored....

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Dave McCracken

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Back in the 1800s and possibly earlier, folks found their shotguns often shot better after some use. With the corrosive percussion caps and primers of the day combining with the residue left by black powder,oft bores had to be "Freshened" by honing out a few thousandths. Thus bores oft became somewhat larger than nominal. The .729" that 12 gauge bores are supposed to be oft became .735 or .740 afterwards.

Old time barrel mavens like Dan Lefevre and Burt Becker tried this on such shotguns as the 10 gauge Super Fox and the earliest 12 gauge 3" Maggie Numbs. Results were sometimes phenomenal and sometimes not.

Definitions:
Overbored is a barrel made larger from scratch. Backboring is enlarging a barrel already made.

And then the 60s saw the introduction of the plastic wad, and it was a whole new game. The plastic wad ensured obturation in the bore and could accomodate a larger Inside Diameter without leaking gas and blowing the pattern. And, the protection of the cup meant more pellets in a load stayed round, and thus stayed in the pattern.

In the 70s, Brister and Stan Baker teamed up to try out backbored barrels by enlarging an 1100 barrel and patterning before and after. The results were good, and Baker went on to make lots of overbore barrels before his recent death. A Baker Big Bore barrel can go to .800" ID and sell for thousands of dollars.

I shot trap last year with a man who had a set of Baker barrels made for his Model 32 Remington. Some decent running used cars cost less.He was quite happy with the barrels and seemed to shoot well.

There's a fair number of good smiths and companies like Briley and Vang out there that will happily hone out barrels and install choke tubes to match.

Backboring can add choke to a barrel with little or none if one hones out to a point an inch or two behind the muzzle and leaves the original diameter intact there.

It can also take some weight out of the barrels and turn what feels like a railroad tie into something more responsive.

It also eases kick a trifle, though I'm unconvinced most people can feel the difference.

And it can improve patterns, though this is by no means a given.To fudge it further,it depends on what is meant by "Improved". Often, I'm told, overbored barrels used with the same amount of relative constriction keep up center density further out and more pellets in the fringes of the patterns.

Two large groups tend to favor overbores. The first are those using heavy loads, like nontoxic waterfowl, buck and turkey loads and want ultimate performance and minimum kick. These folks work with large shot, heavy charges, and often regard an overbore the same way hot rodders used to regard a small block 350 punched out to 427 cubic inches. One common shotgun used here is the Mossie 835, which has an overbored barrel from the factory and 3.5" capacity. I'm still unconvinced of the need for 3.5" loads, but the 835 can be used with the shorter ones and is lots of gun for the money. Here not many shells are shot at one time, but the loads are heavy and the pellets large.

The second group are target shooters. My acquaintance with the 32 Remington is an example. Folks want the overbores for less kick, better patterns,and a little less weight in the longer barrels long favored by trap shooters and those SC folks going to 30" and 32" O/Us for a smoother swing. Here they're shooting lighter loads with smaller shot and lots of them.

Both groups like overbores. My hunch is the first group benefits more.

The downside....

Besides the expense, many barrels are bored non concentrically, and overboring can leave too little metal to contain the pressure. Removing some of the metal between us and 13K PSI of hot gases may not be the brightest idea since the light bulb even in a good but not overbuilt barrel. The Remington Light Contour barrels are not good candidates for backboring. OTOH,one of the standard barrels from Remington could be.

And, some excess is certainly wretched. Extreme overbores have a reputation for not obturating in colder weather. Funny sounding loads, poor performance, and the odd wad left in the barrel to create a hazard are reported. .745" may be the limit on this, but YMMV.

How necessary is it? Not at all. Some folks will shoot a bit better with a shotgun a few oz lighter in front. Some will find their long range patterns a bit denser.

Remember our definition. Something that is useful in directing that cloud or clouds of shot to the target at the right time and in comfort is of worth.

And for comparison, though your results will vary....

The barrel on the TB goes .733", a mild overbore and has 38 POC.

The barrel on #6, made in 1955 goes .725", and has 40 POC.

The new LC barrel goes .7285", has 39 POC with the Full choke tube supplied by HSmith, and has a longer forcing cone than the older barrels.

And shooting at the pattern sheets at 30 yards using identical loads and counting ONLY the flyers OUTSIDE the pattern shows them keeping pellets in that same order.

The TB barrel has the fewest flyers, then that tight old 1955 barrel, then the new LC with its better cone.Go figure...
 
Dave another great history lesson, thanks!

Many of us recall the saying "if it kicks hard , it penetrates better". IIRC Brister and Baker ( others whom name escape me) proved that incorrect. It would seem in the old days the 12 ga was actually more a 16 ga. This was before plastic shot cup, improved shot...etc. These same guns with modern wads , powder and shot, hurt like the dickens and the pattern often was "blown".

Brister is the reason I went a bit "overboard"( PI) on pattern board testing, oh I had a homemade moving target kinda / sorta. No I did not use the family station-wagon <wink>.

It does surprise folks this is overbore is not new per se'. IIRC Remington did a gun for waterfowlers in the 30's !!

I recall Brister, Baker and Olin make similar comments to the effect as loads improve the tubes that shoot them must improve as well. IMO the plastic shotcup and harder shot did more to consistenly improve patterns and performance. I know powder played a part, but sealing up that wad:bore and less deformation,of shot, really made a difference.

I would have to double check my notes, but I used a bore gauge to measure my '74 SX1 that was marked modified.I "think" it is .738 or .739. I patterened this gun first to check POA/POI, then pattern. I was told this bore came from Winchester Stock "a bit overbored". With "loads of the day" ( '74 vintage Winchester loads) it did in fact pattern modified. I also noticed as Brister and Baker commented on the , "steep angle" of choke instead of "slow tapered" choke, provided better patterns. Yep, mine was a bit steep on that SX1 bbl.

One can clearly see this on a Baker, the "Russian Choke" even the old Cutts and Lyman designs.

My Forcing cone was lengthened a 'wee bit" when the Nu- Line external knurled chokes were installed. With a .735 choke screwed in *grin* to say I like what it does is an understatement. Just imagine what the .725, .720, .710 do...It is all Brister and Baker's fault. This one gun and bbl I did more research, spent more time with and was my learning tool.

I played with others in regard to the " matter of bore not choke", hard vs soft shot, and the sort with fixed chokes because that is all I had growning up with. I did not know what all was going on in the real world of testing, I was curious and made some "discoveries" of my own.

Explains why I would have no problem if all I had was a fixed choke...any of them...I have my druthers...but I could "get them there pellets, where I wanted"...I betcha.:)

Also the reason the mini shells have such a problem...really shows in the guns with spl overboared bbls designed to a 'special use". Now grandpa's old gun with "tight bores" , with or w/o the short chamber...*grin* minis do a much better job.
 
Is there any data to suggest that overbored/backbored barrels contribute to a lack of accuracy with rifled/Foster slugs? It seems that the wider bore would allow the slug to "wander" a bit down the barrel and be somewhat random from shot to shot, leading to a loss of group precision and accuracy.

If this is true, it appears overboring is not a good idea if you want a barrel for both shot and slugs. This could be trouble for those people shooting overbored autoloaders for everything (like a friend with a Beretta Extrema).
 
Backboring is one of those practices about which I remain skeptical. Over the years I've owned 12 gauge guns with bores ranging from well under the standard .729 (Italian guns) to well over (a German o/u). I haven't noticed a signficant difference in patterning performance and found more variations occur when shot hardness is changed.

Backboring a gun has some drawbacks. Doing one with choke tubes means potentially having to rethread the gun and at the very least requires honing out all the choke tubes because what is marked a modified choke is now tighter due to the larger internal barrel diameter.

Dave noted barrels possibly being honed below an acceptable thickness. This is a signficiant issue with foreign guns. When these guns are backbored they can become out of proof and require reproving. This is not an issue in North America where there are no proof laws but could be a complication in Europe or the UK.

If your gun has chromed bores (very common in European guns) your gunsmith may refuse to do the job, attempt to talk you out of it or charge you more. Chromed barrels are very hard and very tough on reamers.

Backboring does make barrels lighter and will move balance point to the rear. Sometimes this is a good thing, other times it isn't. A balance point can be restored in a gun that is backbored by drilling wood out the stock which is a very common practice in gun making.

Although it might be heresy to say this to some shotgunners, I sometimes think we spend far too much time pursuing the "perfect" pattern. When I pattern a gun I check for POI, barrel regulation if necessary, and then test loads and chokes to determine whether the pattern is evenly distributed and at what distances holes begin to appear in the pattern. I don't count pellets or determine the percentages. So far I've been able to get the performance I want from either factory shells or reloads without having to start honing the barrels.

As always YMMV.

Paul
 
farscott,
I will share my thoughts/ experiments /experience on slugs, I will admit up front I spent more time on shot pellets, than I did on slugs. So I will concede to Dave or anyone else .

Early 1920's:

I know the credit for a lot of we now know and use are the results of Mr Olin. Mr. Olin developed the "flightometer" a tool to measure shot strings. Bear with me, there is a relationship to shot strings and slugs. At the same time Major Sir Gerald Burrard was also testing shot strings. These two didn't always agree btw.

So what Mr Olin did was approach the problem in TWO Areas. One was to develop better progressive-burning shot shell powders to launch pellets with less "abrupt" force . Secondly he worked to increase the hardness of shot pellets . Less deformation of shot upon firing through forcing cone, bbl and choke. Mr Olin copper-plated the shot to gain hardness.

Slugs,
what came about from the pellets was the WAD improvements as well. The copper increased hardness, but even with better powders, if the copper-plating " was removed " in firing, well heck, that put us back to the drawing board. WAD improvements came about to retain the copper-plating. Aha! we not only shortened the shot string, increased the pattern denisity, we had a better "payload to bore dia" fit and the seaing of gases.

The slugs recieved better powders , improved wads. Just like the pellets proved in the earlier tests, the shot stays in the shot cup longer, retains shape ( less deformity) consistent gas pressure...we have a more efficient system.

IIRC the antimony increase to shot was applied to slugs as it was to pellets.

So even though we have some backbored /overbored bbls, we have actually hads these for awhile as a matter of speaking.

You are correct and as Dave pointed out "getting radical" is not a good thing - always.

IN MY testing I used a rifled slug bbl and compared with a rifled choke. I actually get better accuracy with the CHOKE. In measuring the bores the smooth was a more consistent bbl , eased the slug from firing, FC sealing up gases and that last bit - the rifle choke, accepted a ..."non deformed pc of lead to which to put a spin" . The rifled bbl didn't seem to seal up as well, more abrupt, so I "think" I had "pc of lead kinda screwed up and getting moreso because of abruptness , and sealing up as well leaving the muzzle" .

Plus smoothbore more versatile.

So I have "honed out" some bbls- this was to simulate the tricked out special thingies one buys " ( I'm trying not to step on toes here) and yes some stuff like Dave said is improved, BUT only improved with that load and that bbl configuration. I may work great with buckshot, pitiful with slugs, or vice versa...forget anything else you now have a proprietary bbl and it the slug /buckshot load should ever change...well...you are hung!

This is why some of the new ammo will not work well in standard guns and the new ammo ( I will not not name names or design) "can work better" in the 'spl guns" but forget using the old stand bys in these spl guns . You can't unfix it. It is proprietary.

So IMO/IME for most folks using slugs a smoothbore with the old Forster with the standard old bbl ( fixed or tubed ) is gonna be a better "accross the board performer" and you get more versatility with the ability to use slugs, shot, target loads ...and that bit about a gun being able to use a target load is invaluable in getting the fundamentals .

There is a reason for stuff, and applications thereof. Explains why many of us, do not use the spl guns,loads,ammo..."the standard old stuff" always work...might not be the most accurate, will be able to run the gun and get the job done.

I agree with PJR, we get to caught up in stuff. I spent time and learned, because I wanted to. Like has been mentioned, I don't count pellets, or measure groups. I don't want bling bling or gadgets either, be it guns,or ammo. I test for yardage for task.

BTW it is NOT etched in granite that every gun and load MUST be patterned at 40 yds.

I have said for too many years folks ought to be given a fixed choke gun that fits them. Have NO markings as to "choke, bore, FC...anything" , Given ammo and told to shoot the darn thing with ammo NOT marked other than 1, 2,3...and use a pattern board, when they shoot slugs use ammo "1". Quail/Skeet ammo "2", Trap ammo "3". After about 2k rds have been shot and having not read anything, and rec'd any wish catalogs...we would have some real shotgunners.

Maybe we ought to do that. Not sure some need to know after the 2K rds are fired, gotta feeling a bunch wouldn't care...dang simple stuff will spoil ya.
 
sm,

Your results are quite interesting to me. I do not have any shotguns with overbored barrels, so I have absolutely no experience and practical experience beats (my) engineering judgment every time.

The reason I asked is that a friend is having one heck of a time with slugs and his gun. My friend, with the aforementioned Beretta, is getting nine-inch groups (if you can call them groups) at fifteen yards with Remington slugs. I have also seen a poster on another board who has the same problem, so I started puzzling over it. Hence the question.
 
farscott,
Sorry...got a bit carried away. Basically most guns today are more loose than those of days or yore and we have better ammo. Even if not overbored/backbored more modern guns are "more loose". That make sense?

I'm not an engineer...but I have had to use some techical stuff. Like you and I agree..."yeah I know what is says on paper...but it still don't work, cause I done seen for myself" .:p

What does your friend have as far as bbl , rifled or smooth? If it is a smoothbore do this: Get the Winchester # X12RS15 slugs. These are the 2 3/4" 1 oz HP ( old plain Jane load if you will in a 5 pack).

Also try the Fed Classic F127RS, again a plain ole 2 3/4 " 1 oz slug. [yes FEd makes a 1/14 oz...nah...the 1 oz works better IMO]

Now if the friends bbl is a rifled one...we go to plan C.

Plan B: is the plain Jane loads in 2 3/4 " 1oz usually almost always work the best across the board in any gun...over any 3" or Reduced Recoil load. Win and Fed two best choices. I know these are not - Iwannausecoolammoinmygundealie - they just work.

Plan C ( part 1) the 2 3/4 " basic boring sabot by Win and Fed are a good bet that will work. ( part 2) Brenneke oh heck...DAVE!!..what is that load called? Whatever it is ..usually comes to the rescue.

WE all know the dealie that is etched in granite: When it comes to Shotguns and Ammo the only absolute is - there ain't no absolutes.

Beretta makes a great bbl. I played with a 303 bbl ( well that dates me) Hint: it ain'the gun I'm almost certain of it...so its gotta be...;)
 
OK, you guys ready?? Here is the sum total value of backbored barrels, you ready?

When you get a blooper shell you can wipe the end of the barrel/s off on your shirt tail and blow the stuck wad out with your mouth rather than having to go get the rod and hold everyone up. For that reason alone backboring is worth it.

Hope you guys know how to handle a gem of knowledge like that....
 
Hope you guys know how to handle a gem of knowledge like that....
Hey H...what if ya ain't wearing a shirt? :p I just used my hands wiped a blew that sucker out, wiped hands on jeans - done. :)

H, I agree to much made out on all this stuff. Mine happens to be "mildly overbored" and I took advantage of this and patteren tested. Not all this OB/BB is done right , I do like the fact instead of .729 some guns have a mild overbore, hit that FC and with the better loads today better patterns.

Most folks would be better off if they did check the FC and improve that before doing anything else IMO.

BA/UU/R is the best thing one can do...before anything should ever be considered.
--
farscott, I really hope the ammo suggestions work. Is this bbl a fixed choke or screw in. Nest up would be an aftermarket choke. If you recall Dave was having troubles with chokes. HSMITH sent Dave one more 'concentric".

So report back and we will go from there.
 
sm,

The chokes are screw-in, and he followed Remington's suggestion on which choke to use. He might need to experiment a bit with chokes. I will pass on that idea.

I did get him to pattern the gun with two chokes, full and improved cylinder, before the rain hit yesterday. It does appear to shoot POA/POI for him, so the only issue is the slug one, not a gun fit issue.

Thanks for the help.
 
farscott,
I'm happy to hear POA/POI is there.

MY GUT feeling, and this is mine alone. If he has any way of measuring the chokes , do so. Check two things, first -what they measure, second concentricity.

Chokes are not always gonna throw what they are marked, & ,the more concentric , the better. Yes even for slugs.

MY GUT tells me , getting back to what Dave said from get-go and other threads ...

-If that bbl were to have the forcing cone "lengthened" , an improvement would occur. Even with current chokes.

-If a Hastings Choke .725 installed , and using the Win 2 3/4" 1 oz slug I think the desired result would show itself on a target.

ANYway he could borrow a Hasting choke? My gut says .725...with "The Rule of Absolutes" [aint't one] :p ...tweaking with .735 / .730 /.725 /.720 /.715 /.710...

See why I say stuff like, "we might have been better off not having screw in chokes...and...all this education and communication, just get gets in the way of shooting" :D

We may have been better off just being limited in stuff and only able to use what the fellow at the hardware store stocked. :) [the reason we shot better some days than others were...we "stumbled" onto what worked best for gun]

A lot of good aftermarket chokes out there, My buddy prefers Hastings, I like Nu-Line ...what does he know he sweetens his tea- I don't...then we have Briley.

See a lot of factory chokes are limited in constrictions. Aftermarket come in increments of .005, sounds like a small thing,makes a big difference.

Dave makes a good point(s) in original thread, something that keeps be said by others in many ways.

There is a need to know what particular gun does with particular loads for task at hand. Usually the smallest details make the biggest difference, so go slow and test each one. Just because it is old don't make it bad, Just because something is new don't make it best. Just because the factory says so, or everybody else says it so...well Heard an old feller working for a big auto maker one say..." If we could make it any cheaper and it would sell we would, just need to figure out more rationalizatons to feed the public". :)
 
(Slowly shaking grey old head)....

I go away for a few hours, like 31 or so, and look what happens(G).

I posted this to fill up a chink in the Archives, there's little posted about OB/BB barrels and we get asked about it periodically. But, as often happens here, the thread took off at a tangent and now there's some good info on slugs and barrels. Well done...

As for Forsters, old style ones were made undersize to get through the tighter chokes. These days, TTOBOMK, only the Remington Forster runs much under bore diameter. Others run close to .729". If the thing obturates, accuracy will be there.

BYW, the old Ithaca Deerslayer was offered with a slug barrel that ran .690" all the way down the bore. The 37 Deerslayer was the first dedicated slug gun and is still a good choice.

OTOH, some of the Vang barrels do poorly with slugs, others by common report do OK. My guess is those larger barrels do the worst from lack of obturation and maybe deformation on one side of the slug. At the same time, Vang owners speak in reverent tones about their buck patterns in the big pipes.

A note to the contrary. Trap shooters get obsessed with the quality of their patterns. More prize money is up for grabs at the Grand National than most other top sports events. And it can get split many ways. A perusal of the winners and tackle shows Perazzis are used by maybe half of all the winners, and Perazzi bore, like mnay Italian guns, run tight, .720-.725".

The latest Perazzi model, the R 2000 has an overbore, but it seem to be more catering to the tastes of the clients than conviction of the superiority of overboring on Daniele Perazzi's part.
 
Adding a few more thoughts on this.

IMO,experimenting with loads,chokes and so on will do more good than a larger bore when wanting optimum patterns.If I had to choose between getting the forcing cone done or backboring, I'd go for the cone every time. Its bennies are established.

If it's recoil reduction I was after, I'd add some weight or lighten the load before altering an otherwise near perfect shotgun.

IMO, BB/OB is what ones does when 199X200 is simply not good enough. Then, it may be worth it. But until I can hit on that level, my money's put to better use going for reloading components....
 
sm,

Weather permitting we will be trying lots of different chokes this weekend to see if we can find the right one. I will also suggest the forcing cone modification.

Thanks again.
 
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