Gonna try to cast some bullets and slugs : advice accepted

[Riss]

Gonna use a pan to melt, flux and clean out dross and dirt, later transfer to a pot and flux a second time. Take any extra and make ingots. Then use a Lee casting furnace to keep a consistent temp and make it easier to fill the molds. Anything else I need, other than the obvious lube dies, gas checks etc that I might need depending on bullet type ? Seem I have it all covered. Did I miss anything ? Only thing I missed is TIN. Where do it get it if I want to change the alloy and add tin ?

 

[RustyFN]

To add tin I use 95/5 solder. It's 95% tin and 5% antimony. I add a two foot piece to a ten pound bottom pour pot. I melt my WW's in a six quart cast iron dutch oven. It holds around 100 pounds at a time. I melt them, scoop clips, flux, scoop dross, flux again and then pour ingots. When I add the ingots to my bottom pour pot to cast I flux again.










Rusty

 

[Riss]

What temp is good for casting

Thats a nice set up you have. No one really mentions at what temp to cast. All say warm molds and have good hot lead. But how hot do I need ? I have a laser temp reader so getting a good measurement is not an issue. I also read through the earlier post which had your pictures, and read the suggested articles on surplusrifle.com . I really just wanted to make sure that I was not missing anything. Looks like I have it all covered. Just need a good supply of scrap or WW and can fire up the torch and start casting.

 

[Remo-99]

Riss, I mostly adjust the temp, by how my bullets are casting. If they are filling the moulds well, I'll leave the temp were it is, if the moulds aren't filling well, I'll increase the temp. If the mold is getting too hot and they start to overfill the mold(running into mold joins and such) back off the temp. then.
I usually find I'm starting very hot at first, while the mold is fairly cold, then backing off the temp as the mold is starting to hold more heat in.
There is a lot of variance to work with, considering different alloys, bullet weights/sizes, casting speed, mold metal types and such.
But once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy to play it by ear.(or eyesight, of the molded product you are producing).

 

[qajaq59]

The only thing I can add is the obvious. Be sure you wear your safety glasses. I know they are a pain in the butt, but it's better then eye surgery.

 

[243winxb]

casting temperature

Start at maximum till the mould is making good bullet. Drop back to 850 degrees. If you bullets get frosted, let the mould cool and drop you temp 50 degrees if you want. Its trial and error to find the perfect temp. Different alloy takes different temps. Just stay at 850 and dont worry about it.

 

[RustyFN]

When I smelt the WW's I keep that at 700 degrees or a little less to keep from melting zinc weights. The zinc weights will scoop out with the clips. When I'm casting I set my bottom pour for around 750 to 775 degrees. I set the end of the mold in the lead to heat the mold. The first two or three sets will go back into the pot and everything after that is usually good. I also throw the sprue back into the pot as I cut it to keep from having a big pile. I am using a Lyman four cavity mold and it probably takes more to heat it than a two cavity or aluminum mold.
Rusty