Got a K6 have a quick question for my fellow K6 owners.

[megatronrules]

Well I picked up a K6 this morning. Actually my brother got it for me I should say. This gun is very well made as I'm sure you know.

Anyways I notice there's a very very slight forward movement when I pull the cylinder forward then it goes back when I let it go it goes back to its normal spot. This is very very slight like I said and it locks up like a drum.

I'm assuming this is normal for the K6? I plan on trying to go shooting this afternoon I'm sure I'll be pleased. I'll reports back. Thanks for any help.

 

[Mr.Revolverguy]

I suspect normal it is called the barrel cylinder gap. You do not want that to tight as it will make the cylinder hard to turn when carbon is built up on the face of the revolver. The K6 is so new I am not sure what the factory gap should be but with S&W they consider all the way up to .010 to be within factory spec.

I checked the cylinder gap on this K6
It was .007 on that Kimber

 

[megatronrules]

Thanks mrrevolverguy. That video was quite helpful. Like I said it's very very slight. Being the K6 is so new I was just wondering about this.

It's doesn't seem like it abnormal. Aren't revolvers supposed to have a tiny bit of forward/rear ward play in their cylinders to prevent binding as you said?

 

[RugRev]

Yes, and it is called endshake. The acceptable range varies depending upon manufacturer. Don't know what the spec is for Kimber.

 

[megatronrules]

RugRev thanks for the info. Like I said it's hardly noticeable not abnormal in any way,so I figured it was normal just thought I'd ask never hurts. This is a very well made and Beautifully machined revolver.

My friend has a 640 PRO I've shot it a lot. To me (and this is subjective I know) the K6 has a better trigger,maybe the best out of the box trigger I've ever seen on a snub nose dare I say.

 

[ROD KLOMP]

My cylinder to forcing cone gap is .007, my S&W 640 PRO is .008, both are concidered, as being well within spec's, this is what makes these little guns so accurate for their size, I picked up a second Kimber K6S, and it also has the same gap, the K6S is just a very quality made gun, guess that's why I bought another one...have fun at the range, I know you will enjoy your Kimber...

 

[340PD]

Hi Rod. I just grabbed my K6S and tried moving the cylinder. Mine has a very,very slight movement. I have not measured cylinder gaps but they are very tight on my revolver. Go shoot the gun. I am just holstering mine as I leave the house.

 

[ROD KLOMP]

Hi Rod. I just grabbed my K6S and tried moving the cylinder. Mine has a very,very slight movement. I have not measured cylinder gaps but they are very tight on my revolver. Go shoot the gun. I am just holstering mine as I leave the house.

[/Congrats 340pd, I think you will like this gun as I much as I like mine, a little movement in the cylinder is ok, both of mine lock up very tight, and Like I wrote, the gap came in at .007, there are a lot of guns out there that have .012 to .014 gaps, they shoot alright, but aren't near as accurate as the tighter numbers, my Dan Wesson vented heavy 44 magnum is set at .002, and is my most accurate revolver I own, let us know how you like your gun and how it shoots for you, I really like the sights and the black grips just add to its great looks...you're's appears to be the brushed stainless model, very nice indeed...

 

[340PD]

Now you made me pull out the feeler gauge.
Cylinder to barrel is .004
Back of cylinder to frame .008

I have a several hundred rounds through mine shooting various handloads and calibers. I have only shot it two hand unsupported to 25 yds. but the results are surprisingly good at that distance. The trigger system is very similar to my Kahr PM9 which I also find very accurate at longer distances.
Next I will be working on strong hand and weak hand rapid fire drills with the Kimber.