Got a new FAL this weekend

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anthony-white

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I picked up a Century R1A1 (hesse) this weekend, I know they have a bad rap, this one runs great though. I traded for it kinda blindly, didn't know much about FALs except that I like the idea of a relatively cheap 308 semi-auto battle rifle other than an ar or ak. Got it home and started to play with it; has a sand cut bolt, widows peak feed ramp, feeds and fires like a champ on the german surplus I got. I obtained it to flip it and pocket a few bucks, but lol I think im gonna keep it. It was spraypainted with some gloss enamel and looked horrible (not that its a thing of beauty now). I was home from work with kidneystones, got bored between passings and figured I'd see how well I paint camo. I like it, but know what to improve as far as looks go next time. I will strip it again and order some duracoat when this finish faulters. It is high temperature paint for bbq grills, we'll see. I made the stencils of masking tape and will do the same for the duracoat. Just thought I'd share.
STP60240.gif
 
Paint looks good! Personally I don't think paint on a battle rifle needs to look like a "show gun". The point is to make them look like dirt, rocks, trees, leaves etc no need to be pretty!
 
Well thanks I appreciate the kind words. I was gonna get out the exacto and really have a go at it, but I kinda went with the keep it simple stupid method, and tore the edges of the tape. I really enjoy this rifle, pretty accurate, reliable for the 200 rounds I put through it, no tack driver but definately my new truck gun.
 
+1 on the functional issue with rifle camo. Most of the Rhodesian FALs back in the day were, apparently, painted with whatever was handy (usually an army issue sock) using touch up paint intended for VW Bugs. Functional, and ugly.

(Your paint job looks much better than those, of course.)
 
Yeah, or as the FAL-filers call it, baby-barf green! A Hesse is a decent FAL if it runs. If you have one that runs, then no problem. It's hard to tell but it looks like an older Hesse. I had one of these once and it ran fine. Indeed, while many Hesse/Century FAL's have a bad reputation that is well-earned, those that run run fine. The main trouble lay in the feed ramp and assembly. If it feeds decently, then you are past those hurdles and it should last just fine.

Good job on the painting.

Ash
 
Nice camo paint ! ;) ~ I like it better than that commercial 'twig' & 'leaf' look you see on so many hunting rifles.

CONGRATS on your new purchase !!!
 
Wow, nice work on the finish.

How much did it cost and how accurately and reliably does it operate?
 
Well I was shooting at an aluminum pieplate at around 75-80 yards and was pegging it with ease. Went through a 200 round battle pack without a hitch. I am extremely pleased. Only Q I have is about adjusting the gas system for a little less recoil, I've heard that you can adjust them to have very little. The finish was pretty cheap, about 20 bucks for masking tape, High Temp paint (the base coat), camo tan and green, and a clear matte sealant for protection. I'm gonna start to play with duracoat, probably on my M1A in a few weeks, I'll post pics. Ah and the flash hider, I want one but I really dont need it, maybe I'll do it later but its not a priority.
 
That is an excellent do-it-yourself paintjob...I'm not one for painting my rifles, but since it already had a crappy paint job on it already, you did good!
 
Thanks Joe. I really dont like painting them either but I also hate a firearm thats looks as if it was poorly taken care of. Hey can anyone tell me how to tell if this is a metric or inch pattern? I've gone through a few searches on this but still can't come up with an explination i can grasp. Thanks, Anthony
 
Only Q I have is about adjusting the gas system for a little less recoil,
Click to expand...

Quick and dirty cut/paste courtesy of the FALFiles.:)

DO NOT PUT ANY OIL ON YOUR GAS SYSTEM. PERIOD.

Dry it completely before firing. DRY IT.

The system is intended to feed and extract over the magazine. If you hand feed, that's a no-no. Garand shooters have done this for years, for two reasons. Just lock & load from the magazine.

GET ALL THE OIL OFF the gas system.

Meanwhile, short version:
- CLOSE the regulator all the way forward against the gas block.
- OPEN it one FULL turn
- Insert mag w/ 1 round, fire
- CLOSE regulator one CLICK and repeat 1 round magazine until BHO (Bolt Hold Open) functions.
- CLOSE the regulator ONE more click. Try several magazines.

As the setting wears in, you may need to CLOSE one more click.

As long as you don NOT change ammunition, you will not have to adjust the regulator until you have failed to clean it after several hundred rounds.

I don't think you need to be registered to see this page at the FALFILES. It goes over setting the gas system in detail (with pics!) and other maintenance you should know.

http://www.fnfal.com/falfiles/gas.html

BTW...I like the paint job! :)
 
I'm screwed then.

Over a period of many years, I've shot some 10,000 rounds through all variety of FAL's, and ALL of them with "oil" (usually CLP) on the inside of the gas tube, and on the hot end of the gas piston, as well as the gas plug.

Just a tiny little puff of smoke around the gas vents, for the first shot or two.

If you store the rifle in a humid environment, and you don't put a rust prevtative (e.g. "oil") on the gas system, it will rust badly.
Ask me how I know.

There is no doubt in my mind that the reason the "no oil" admonition persists is because somewhere, some snuffy was fouling his gas system with too much oil, or even worse - globs of grease. Yeah, that will probably mess up a rifle - especially in sandy conditions. FWIW, a FAL will function with loads of rust on the gas system. If that's what you prefer for cosmetics.

Use some common sense.
 
Hey I am just quoting what they say you are supposed to do:D I also know as well what works in "the real world".;)

I have run them dry...and with a little lube...no problems on my end either. Just don't soak the thing.
 
Ok next question for the experts, Do I need to worry about 922r compliance on this, or is it old enough to be ok?
 
Chances are, if it is an older Hesse, then the floor-plate and follower were part of the legal-parts requirement. Break that sucker down and check the hammer/trigger/sear. If Century-made, they will have a "C" stamped in them. They aren't great parts, if they are Century, but serviceable. The pistol grip is another part to check, as is the gas-piston. If it is a two-piece piston, I believe that makes it US made (and crap, which should be replaced). Of course, charging handle and furnature are the other possible suspects.

Ash
 
The trigger group will be marked US in some fashion, as are the pistons, generally.

To keep your current furniture configuration, you'll need to change out the piston, charging handle, and fire control group. That will give you 6 parts, and you'll be getting good parts that aren't generally very expensive.

1 - Receiver
2 - Gas Piston
3 - Charging Handle
4 - Trigger
5 - Hammer
6 - Sear

Do that, and as long as you never install a foreign muzzle device, you can use what ever furniture you please.

Ash
 
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