Got my first cartridge conversion cylinder....

Status
Not open for further replies.
B

Bigdog57

Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2004
Messages
431
Location
Norfleet, Florida
Well, I decided to finally 'bite the bullet' and ordered the .45 Colt conversion cylinder from Howell's for my steel framed Pietta 1860 Army. It looks pretty good, and I will give it a try Saturday at the range. I got a box of Magtech .45 Colt Cowboy Loads for it too.
I have an order in now for the Lee .45 Colt dies, 100 Starline brass and 250 pieces of 250 grain cast lead bullets. Once the Cowboy Loads are shot, I plan to begin handloading using BP. I am thinking my standard 30 grains will be good?
Any tips or warnings about this conversion cylinder?
 
These conversions cylinders for these revolvers are great. But you can also use the 45 Schofield in these conversions if your 1860 Army, like mine, doesn't like the 45 Long Colt.
 
You need to totally fill the cases with no air gap. If you're running real BP it's OK to compress it if necessary. If you don't want to run a load that heavy (35gr?) you can dump in some filler on top.
 
Once the Cowboy Loads are shot, I plan to begin handloading using BP. I am thinking my standard 30 grains will be good?
Any tips or warnings about this conversion cylinder?
Click to expand...

Yup, you need to fill the case with enough powder that the powder is compressed slightly when the bullet is seated. When you have arrived at that amount, dump out a load and weigh it. That is the correct amount of powder. Bear in mind that different brands of powder weigh a slightly different amount. Also, bear in mind that the amount will vary depending on how deep your bullet extends into the case when seated.

Here is a little guide to selecting the correct amount of powder that I wrote up a bunch of years ago.

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/topic,18257.0.html
 
Well, it didn't work out as planned. I tried fitting the cylinder last night, but it wouldn't turn as I cocked the hammer. Indeed, the hammer is locked up.
I am thinking to get a spare hand pawl, and try finely honing the tip to see if it may be too long for this cylinder. I had read that the permanently installed gated cylinder comes with a specifically fitted hand, as the length is different.
Cheap enough part to experiment with.
Unless someone has a tip or trick for this unit?
Tried it in the 1860 Army and the two 1851 Navies, all Piettas. Double checked, the box says "Pietta 1860 Navy".
 
Sorry to hear about the conversion cylinder not fitting.

As usual Driftwood Johnson knows more about them then I will ever hope to learn. I will add once you decided to shoot the Holy Black thoroughly degrease your gun on all petroleum based oil and grease and use vegetable based grease and oil. Bore butter and Ballistol are good choices. Of course soft lead bullets and lube such as SPG. (You may already know all of this).

My Conversions are in 44 Colt as I wanted something closer to what was really used. I would love to have a 1866 Carbine in 44 Colt for a matched set. Alas prices have gone up so much I am unwilling to buy a 44 Special Yellowboy.
 
Last edited:
Bigdog,
Since the cyl. you got is a 5 shot, the hand in your revolver is probably too short. A new hand is what you need.
Taking a 6 shot to a 5 shot means the hand has to push the cyl. further.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
Last edited:
I have a Pietta 1860 Army replica I bought from Navy Arms years ago. I recently fitted it with a 3" snub-nose barrel and a (non-engraved) R&D conversion cylinder from Taylors & Co.. The cylinder indexes and locks up perfectly, with no modifications to any part of the gun. I have not had a chance to buy any .45 Colt ammo to see if it will fit though. I am thinking I would like to fit it with an 1851 Navy grip frame and grips (not quite so big in the hand).
 
Latest update to this conversion attempt.
This Howell Conversion Cylinder locks up the Pietta 1860 Army and the brass-grip/TG framed-steel main framed Pietta 1851 Navy. It simply will not turn and the hammer is locked.
I just tried it in my Pietta 1851 Navy "Civilian Model" with the nickeled grip and TG frames. It was quirky at first, then I began using just the rear cap, no main cylinder. Holding it back by hand, it would rotate. Looked good.
So then I placed the entire cylinder into the frame - no barrel just yet. It was slightly quirky, but seemed to loosen up and get better. Finally put the barrel on, and ..... IT LIVES! The thing is actually working well! Indexing looks good, the hammer lines up with the firing pin recesses perfectly! Well, I am back in business, using the 1851 Navy instead of the 1860 Army. Need to get back to the range tomorrow. :)
 
I have three Pietta 1851 "Navies" (as they term them) in .44 caliber. Two steel and one brasser. Yeah, not 'period correct', but then neither am I. ;)
Would love to get the .36 conversion cylinder too, but my only 1851 Navy in .36 caliber is a brass frame, not recommended for the cartridge cylinders. Need a steel frame for that. Maybe my next revolver? :)
 
BTW,
I was wrong. The hand is too long. The hammer will have to rotate further for the extra cyl rotation. Right now, both are trying to happen at the same time. That's why it's locked up.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
 
I really hate these threads,,,

I really hate these threads,,,
Because they all make me want to spend money.

I own one of the Uberti Remington Revolving Rifles,,,
I never shoot the dang thing anymore,,,
I really hate cleaning BP residue.

so every time one of these threads gets started,,,
I get the urge to buy a .44 Special cylinder for the carbine.

And they aren't cheap!

I really need to sell that carbine before I spend money upgrading it.

Aarond

.
 
I really hate these threads,,,
Because they all make me want to spend money.
Click to expand...

LOL, I seriously suggest you quit reading these forums and take up underwater basketweaving, but that might be more expensive with the dive-gear and such... :D

I have three Pietta 1851 "Navies" (as they term them) in .44 caliber. Two steel and one brasser. Yeah, not 'period correct', but then neither am I.
Would love to get the .36 conversion cylinder too, but my only 1851 Navy in .36 caliber is a brass frame, not recommended for the cartridge cylinders. Need a steel frame for that. Maybe my next revolver?
Click to expand...

I'm new to C&B revolvers but I think I have learned a bunch from all of the folks on this and other forums. I have a Pietta 1851 Navy steel .36, I love the feel of it, but wish I had done more research before buying it concerning the conversion cylinders. Any conversion .38 cylinder (launching .357 bullets) will, as I have been told repeatedly, "rattle down the (.375 bore) like a marble in a sewer pipe".

If I had to do it over with a conversion cylinder in mind, I would get a replica 1860 Colt .44 (actually a .45 bore) so I could shoot .45 Colt mild smokeless rounds. Taking it further, I would rather opt for a Second Model Dragoon (I like squareback trigger guards) with the rectangular stop slots, with the idea of purchasing a second barrel and modifying the forcing cone to fit a Walker cylinder.

So many options and possibilities.

Now I just need a non-existent rich uncle to die. :D
 
Well, I did not get to the range this morning, too many other duties. But I will get there Tuesday. Monday is range clean-up day.
One thing I did do just for funzies...... I switched the barrels on my 1851 Navy Civilian Model and my 1860 Army. Perfect change-over! I need to get the correct screwdriver for the grip frame screws, and I can switch grips too - then I need to update the serial number switch in my gun log. ;)
And voila! I will have my cartridge firing 1860 Army! Gotta love Pietta and their cross-model standardization. :)
I also found the Cowboy Action loads have some a tad long, not all. So either I file a wee bit from some bullet noses, or try reseating them a bit deeper. Once I get the dies and reload, I can adjust the new loads as needed. Might even get set up to load .45 Schofield. No problems reported with them fitting.
 
With the 45 LC you have to limit the size or grain of bullet you buy. I'm trying to recall here because I gave up on the 45 LC and just buy the cowboy action loads in 45 Schofield, but in my 1860 Army the 200 grain and lighter bullets fit but anything over 200 grains bullets wouldn't fit. Now in the 45 Schofield with its shorter case any bullet fits.
 
Its been so long that I've used the 45 LC I can't remember what grain of bullet I was using. I just go with the 45 Schofield anymore as my 1860 Army likes them a whole lot more than the 45 LC.

But measuring the case I could only get a little over 30 grains of black powder in the Schofield case whereas I could get a little over 40 grains in the LC case. Filled to the maximum with black powder.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

D
  • Locked
Howell conversions for repro Colt Dragoon or 1858 REMINGTON.36 caliber?
Replies
3
Views
901
Crawdad1
Crawdad1
R
  • Locked
Ruger old army and cartridge conversion cylinders
Replies
8
Views
1K
robhof
robhof
mgmorden
  • Locked
Reloading for Conversion Cylinders
Replies
5
Views
941
Driftwood Johnson
Driftwood Johnson
S
  • Locked
Using smokeless cowboy loads in Conversion cylinder
Replies
11
Views
3K
Palehorseman
P
F
  • Locked
Conversion Cylinders - worth it?
Replies
20
Views
1K
scrat
S
Back
Top