GP100 5" OR 686 4" or 6"?

Status
Not open for further replies.
BLUF: based on your needs, I would get a 4" 686.

I have always been a fan of S&W revolvers and own more than my fair share.

My 686 is a 6" gun I bought new in 1989 and it was made before they started installing those goofy locks. Additionally, the fit, finish, and trigger are all superb... Bottom line, it has the quality I expect from a S&W revolver.

I picked the 6" tube for use in the hunting field. If I were picking it for general use I would get the 4" model. Although revolvers are big and clunky when compared to the current crop of suitable semi-auto choices, if picking it for carry I would opt for the 7 round 3" model.

Fast forward to today. Over the last few years I've owned four new S&W J-framed snubbies and I've determined the Quality Control shop has been asleep up in Springfield, MA.

Three of those guns had to make trips back for repairs. Two had to be replaced as they were deemed "unrepairable". One, a Pro Series 640, has made four trips back to fix glaring fit and finish issues as well as to receive two new barrels. This on a Pro Series gun... OUCH!! They did fix it. Now it actually sends bullets where the sights point and all of the parts stay attached during the process!

I'm still partial to the look and feel of a S&W wheel gun. However, look it over closely for fit and finish issues before you purchase. One thing in the recent past is canted or "clocked" barrels.

Let us know what you choose.

Edmo

image_zpsfrle6frw.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP:

Picked up a....new Taurus 66 stainless 4" for under $400. If it does not satisfy, I am going with the 4" 686 shortly after. I have wood grips and will Mothers polish the luster. Before and after pics coming. If it works okay, 7 rounds, a great trigger, and a look very similar to the 686.

It came down to the GP100's trigger is just not acceptable. My stock PPQ has a better trigger than a revolver's single action? However, I do feel the GP100 would accept more throwing around.

I took the Taurus 66 over the 686 because the features are so similar. At the price, if I still feel uncomfortable with the 4" as I did the previous 6", I am not at a loss. The difference of $250 is worth the gamble for a 100% range gun.

For me, the 357 is purely for fun. Perhaps the 4" barrel isn't practical for the 357 given very close 9mm FPS...but it does seem to balance better for me. I feel the 6" is a better platform, but the balance for me goes to the 4".
 
I'm partial to the 686 mostly because i carried one on duty prior to the acceptance of autos in law enforcement. I have a security six now for hunting and it's fine but I miss my old 686

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
 
I had a GP100 in .327 Fed Mag and it was a very good gun. I found it worthwhile to take a light sandpaper and "round off" all of the sharp edges, that is, just enough to make them smooth to the touch but not enough to see or detect my ever-so-slight modification. The trigger guard in particular benefited from being a bit smoother.

The GP100 generally should be $50 - $100 less than a comparable 686.

I currently have a 686-6 Plus with 3" barrel. I would not question the strength or robustness of this revolver versus the Ruger. Both can handle a steady load of .357 Mag rounds, and both can withstand regular handling and carry. That said, the Ruger is generally agreed to be the "standard" for a rugged and stout revolver.

So it boils down to preference... the 686 is, to me, prettier. Although it does not exhibit the grace and balance seen in a Model 65 or 66 with the 3" barrel.

I don't think you can go wrong with either one, and I think the 4" barrel comes close to being the perfect compromise for most people (I prefer the 3"!!!).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top