GP100 vs S&W?

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Rob47

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Thanks to you guys, I settled on a stainless blackhawk 6.5''. It will be coming soon. :D

Now on to the question. I want a double action revolver in .357 magnum, with recoil absorbing weight and 5-6'' barrel, for range, HD, and everything else. What would you pick between a GP100 and a S&W (627 PC, or 686+)? I like the trigger and overall quality of the S&Ws, but can I expect them to be as reliable as a GP100? I want something that will last. Or should I get the more expensive S&W if I have the $?

thanks

Rob
 
Both makers have fine products. I have owned both GP100 and 686+.
Personally I would take the S&W over the Ruger depending on the age of the revolver. I haven't bought a brand new revolver in years.
The older Rugers, Speed Six and Security Six, hold more interest for me. As do lower dash model Smiths.
Which one feels best? How does it balance in your hand? Are the sights quick to find?
Three to four inch barrels feel best for me, just unsolicited advise.
 
I love my 686+. No way I'd ever give it up for a Ruger. Ever. They make a tough revolver, but Smith just really is where it is at for me when it comes to wheelguns. Smith and Wesson make a LOT of different model .357's too...
 
The GP100 is a good gun, but it's nowhere near being in the same league as the 627 Performance Center. I've got a friend with a GP100 and I've shot it plenty of times. But after I bought my 627 Performance Center, I don't even give it a second glance. Total apples and oranges. My 627 PC will blow the doors off the GP100 in terms of quality, smooth action, and accuracy. In terms of normal use, you're not going to see any difference in terms of reliability between the two. Now maybe if you wanted a revolver that you could use as a hammer in a pinch, then the GP100 would get the nod. Out of all of my guns, I enjoy shooting the 627 PC more than any of the others! And you don't build a solid reputation over the century like S&W has by building guns that "crap out". I've got several older Smiths that are 40 and 50 years old and have never seen a gunsmith. There's no telling how many owners they've outlived. There's a very good chance that they'll all outlive me too!

If you want a Chevy Tahoe, go for the GP100. If you want a Chevy Corvette, go with the 627 Performance Center. How often do you see Jerry Miculek shooting a GP100?

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I own both.

Get a 4" Security Six instead. It's less expensive than both of the ones you mentioned, and a damn sexy - and strong - gun.
 
Wow Olympus, those pics make that 627PC look so nice...
What's fair price for a new one?
 
i went with the gp100. the ruger has a great reputation for being a rock solid gun. i also can't stand the little lock on the smiths. i looked at a 686 and 627pc, and the trigger was really smooth, but again....the lock, and i just couldn't see where all the extra money was going. my gp's trigger has smoothed out considerably with less than 200 rounds through it, and it's a pleasure to shoot. plus i don't have to worry about it being all pretty all the time.
 
I paid $800 for mine, very slightly used. Mine is one of the older -5s and they came with aluminum cases with a huge S&W logo embossed on the top of the case and combination locks on the latches (like this one: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5172/5420214854_18848a6939.jpg). I have a thing for much older S&Ws, but if I were going to buy a S&W made after the mid 1980s, the Performance Center models are the only ones I would consider. They are incredibly fine revolvers!
 
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The reason I am looking at the gp100 is because I don't want maintenance down the road. No retiming like I've heard has to be done to some smith revolvers every 2000 rounds. A superb trigger is a plus but doesn't justify a higher price and weaker design. Decisions...
 
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The reason I am looking at the gp100 is because I don't want maintenance down the road. No retiming like I've heard has to be done to some smith revolvers every 2000 rounds. A superb trigger is a plus but doesn't justify a higher price and weaker design. Decisions...

Whoever told you that was full of hot air, and that's being polite. Like I said, I have 40 and 50 year old Smiths that have never had any work done and they are still as good as new. I shoot close to 2000 rounds a year through at least two of my Smiths and you'd never be able to tell it compared with others. Retiming every 2000 rounds on a Smith is pure-o-d bologna! I doubt you would have any timing issues at 20,000 rounds even!
 
I have a 4 inch GP100 and am very satisfied. It shoots a handloaded 185 grain Beartooth bullet at 1300 fps out of the 4 inch barrel. When I was looking for a 357, I wanted one that would handle the heaviest loads. I don't care about looks or 100 years of history. It's just a tool to me. One of many....

If I were buying a S&W, I'd look for a good old one, or get one from the Performance Center. I bought a new 617-6 a couple of years ago and it came with a barrel to cylinder gap of 0.012 inches. S&W has great customer service. Their quality control is not so great....
 
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I have a GP100 and haven't had any problems with it. The only downside is the 14# DA trigger pull, but there are spring replacement kits you can buy. I also endorse the Security Six. I don't own one yet, but really like how it shoots.
 
The GP100 and the S&W 686 and bigger N frame revolvers are the most compared that I have ever read about. They are all great revolvers. The GP100 is not as expense as a 686 or a 627. But the GP100 is a quality revolver that is rugged and reliable. I do agree the myth about S&W revolvers shooting loose after 2000 rounds in hogwash. My S&W revolvers are older and have many rounds put through them with no issues. I have a GP100 and a 686. They are both great revolvers but I did a action trigger job on my GP100 because I was not happy with the double action pull. The revolver now would compete with the 686 ssr now after the trigger action job.
If I were I would look for either a used GP100 or old pre-lock 686. Either one would serve you well.
Howard
 
both good guns

Ruger probably can stand more abuse than the Smith & Wesson.

Smith and Wesson is sexier.
This about sums it up.

I own a GP100 I got to use as a big kids toy. I shoot mudpuddles just to make noise and fling mud all over, wear it climbing around in the hills, I've dropped it, scratched it, and I'm sure it will look pretty beat up by the time I'm finished dragging it around.

I handload and plan to work up some jacketed hollow points that are extremely "stout" and see if I can clean a squirrel before it hits the ground.

I like my Tahoe.
I wouldn't want to scratch a Corvette.
 
FWIW, I became a civilian deputy sheriff in Mahoning County OH a few years ago and whilst undergoing the training came to know the department armorer pretty well. They use Glocks now, G22 .40's, and I believe they used an S&W 9mm for a brief time prior which he was unenthused about, but back before that S&W L frame .357's were the approved weapon. According to that gent they had a FAR higher failure rate with the S&W L frames than the Glocks and virtually all of the S&W failures required sending the guns into the factory whereas he's been able to keep all the Glocks running happily with no issue after taking the one day armorers course. I was surprised when he told me that but he said the S&W's, especially the last batch they got were real problem children with many requiring multiple trips back to the factory.

Just to be above board, I'm a Ruger fan and have been since the 80's when I started shooting, but back then it was mainly because the Rugers were in my price range where the S&W's were more $'s and came with those gawd-awful Magna grips that I detested. I did admire the guns though and had no other issues with S&W until they started putting those damn locks in.
 
Here is wmy feedback on the two...

GP100: Built strong and built to last. A "no worries" handgun that I can throw where-ever and know I can depend on it. Lower cost means I can worry less. Groups are easy to remove and not that concerned about loosing too many pieces when disassembling.

SW686: Fine firearm. Great trigger (generally speaking.. NOT always). The action is smoother and the trigger is more crisp. It is harder to open up and oil/care for. Doing it wrong can mar the side plate. More expensive firearm means I care more about keeping it nice.

What I do not like about the GP100 is that it can have a rougher trigger. There is this false trigger reset also. Meaning, once you pull the trigger, if you let it up halfway or so, it locks unless you release it all the way. Not really a problem unless you are shooting really quickly and don't give the trigger enough time to reset. A little stone work on the trigger can help this and the smoothness. The other thing I do not like so much about the mechanics is that the cylinder locks so quickly when the trigger is pulled. Not really a problem unless you start pulling the trigger then let off before the hammer drops. The cylinder would already have locked on the next round. These are just minor gripes that I have though.

For the Smith, sometimes the trigger can get gritty over time if not maintained. And again, if you do not know how to open up the internals correctly, you can mar up the fit between the side plate. Not to mention a lot more small parts to when disassembling.

Keep in mind these are just minor gripes on both since they are both fine firearms. Just some more info for you to digest before purchasing.
 
^^^^ the trigger was engineered this way , if ya short stroke a smith it`ll bypass 1 chamber !

Thru my life I`ve shot all of the big 3 (colt,ruger & smith) dealt with all the common problems & shippin problems, my safe is now dominated by Rugers.

The trigger can be worked on a GP to match a smith but it`ll always be longer.

There`s more muscle memory than ya think in ya fingers & this memory comes into play when shooting a long pull revolver, especially for the auto shooters .

That 627 does look nice !!! But it`s in a semi custom class & sorta like comparing apples to oranges , but still has the internal works & sideplate of the run of the mim parts smith, so the extra $$ is`nt worth it to me .

Am I biased ?,just a little , am I experienced (how limited it may be) yes 42yrs worth.

Get the Ruger.
 
Get a usd Ruger GP100 and its big brother the Super Redhawk for not much more money than what you might pay for a new 627 Performance Center!
Of course the Crimson Trace grip on the GP100 and the scope on the SHR are extra...
 

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New? GP100

This past weekend I had an opportunity to dry fire brand new S&W revolvers alongside a brand new 3" GP100. I also dry fired a new 3" SP101.

The Ruger triggers were clearly superior to the heavy, gritty lawyer triggers on the S&W's.

Try to find examples of each and dry fire them for yourself. The old belief that S&W triggers are superior to Ruger was true prior to 2000. No longer though.
 
If you are considering the 627 PC then get it and don't look back, plus you can also get moonclips to shoot 38 Super, as some competitors do.

I carry a 686+/6" in a shoulder rig this time of year because of the wildlife around us. What separates the 686 apart from other wheelguns is it came from the factory with a target trigger, meaning it's very smooth and very fast.

On a side note, I watched an International Revolver Championship show and of the 200 competitors, 199 were shooting Smiths, one shot a Ruger. I may or may not get a GP 100 in the future, but I would probably carry a Trooper Mk III before the Ruger, considered by some in the field to be the strongest of the three.
 
Yes and no. To some point any revolver will, but a set number of rounds? No. The .357 digests a large variety of ammo and some wear faster than others. My 686+, the one I wouldn't trade for the world, it is about ready to go back to Smith to have a new cylinder fitted. The stops on mine are worn and it wiggles more than I'd like when locked up, but it took a LOT of rounds to get there, and since I've had it, I've fired almost all magnums through it (but my wife, army buddy, and his family, they shoot specials through it). Ran a lot of max N110 loads too --three foot flame out the barrel, one foot flames out the side, 1800fps+ with 125gr. XTP. Still, even needing a new cylinder, I'd say it was only a few thousand rounds ago that I sent five out of seven 140gr. XTP's into a steel silhouette at 300m. No joke, this is why I say I'd never get rid of it (and why I think the 140gr. bullet is superior in .357, not 125gr.). It is almost the perfect handgun if you ask me, I just wish I could pack it. Instead, I carry a 10mm, next best thing I guess ballistically.

Lots of mag loads like that nuclear N110 load will cut the top strap over time. Flame cutting. It is more pronounced with some loads in some revolvers --depends on steel, pressure of round, etc. I've abused mine with those heavy loads, likely why my cylinder stops are worn so much, but the flame cutting seems to start, get worse, then stop. Kind of like how muzzle brakes wear, they'll pit real fast with a suppressor like they are going to wear out in a few thousand rounds, then they kind of stop and wear a lot slower. Just an observation.

My wife, she just got a 649, a snub shrouded hammer. I bring it up though because it is so similar to the 686, the trigger is nearly identical, the rest of the design is too save dimensions. I bought it used, but you can't tell. They wear real well when not abused, and the previous owner only shot factory loads. No nukes.

Which brings me to this: I got my 686+ no lock for just over $250 with tax in '99 or '00. Based on the price, I assume it was well shot, well used, but like I said, if you had a handgun that could send 5/7 shots accurately downrange 300m, would you switch? Sell it? Gamble on a nice Korth? Honestly, if I had a Ruger that would do this I'd feel the same about it. Not taking that chance though, every revolver is different, and the difference is greater among lower tolerance weapons. I'd suspect you'd notice better consistency in accuracy and wear in a Korth or Dan Wesson vs. a Smith or Ruger, but if you get "the one" does it matter who made it?

Also, as far as looks go, I think the Smith is the sexiest. It is THE revolver for me in that respect, hands down. About as well made as you can get without significantly increasing costs, and they aren't overly bulky. Guys that own Korths and 686's tell me that the Korth is only better tolerance-wise. It is a great example of workmanship. It may or may not be a better handgun than the Smith. Due to the tolerances though (and quality factor with Korth) I'd imagine it would wear better. Ruger guys say they are just built like tanks but they usually concede to the fact the Smith has a better trigger. That is a huge thing with me. Smiths also come in more flavors than any other revolver.

Finally, I have a 340PD. A scandium/titanium revolver. Brutal recoil, but there isn't another handgun like it really. That one wears really well considering, I figured it would wear as fast as the aluminum but it doesn't. That scant bit of scandium they put in the alloy really toughens it up quite a bit. The steel insert in the top strap prevents flame cutting and shows no wear at all really. I did destroy one cylinder, but I was firing the nuclear loads out of it. Now I only use "standard" magnums, not nukes, and it does fine. With it, I no longer have any excuse to leave unarmed.

So bottom line is, they wear faster with nukes, not so much with lighter loads. You can run specials through it and I doubt you'd be able to wear it out in two lifetimes. But nuclear mags in a medium frame revolver maximized to hold seven rounds, that is kind of stretching it. Smith does that though, I gotta give it to them, they are willing to push the envelope on the revolvers, and they still hold up well.

Rugers wear well because for the most part, they build them like tanks. They make phenomenal hunting revolvers. Some folks tweak them for other sports. If you handload and tinker with nuclear loads a LOT, you need the Ruger .357 Blackhawk or whatever they call it. If you blow that up, I want to know how you got that much powder in the case. The Ruger isn't sexy, and personally I only like their rimfires (I love their rimfires --best ones for the price I think) but their .357's have a strong following on here.

Colt is another great one that gets missed over. Gotta REALLY do homework on them though, and they are kind of becoming collector items. When I got my 686+, I had the choice of an Anaconda or Python, stainless 6" with ribbed barrels. They are very nice and well made revolvers, but I just can't get over the backwards cylinder release. It isn't natural at all for me, but that is really my only complaint (albeit a big one).
 
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