Gun Cleaners / Lubes. What do you use?
- Thread starter Walkalong
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RNB65
Member
Break-Free CLP, Hoppes #9, Outers Foaming Bore Cleaner.
I use CLP for about 95% of my cleaning needs. I break out the Hoppes and Outers occasionally to throughly clean a well used barrel.
I use CLP for about 95% of my cleaning needs. I break out the Hoppes and Outers occasionally to throughly clean a well used barrel.
DirksterG30
Member
I used Break-Free CLP for general gun cleaning, and Hoppes #9 to clean the dirty areas (barrel, chamber, breechface etc.). I find that these work very well for me. I use a grease to lube the slide rails, CLP everywhere else.
pittspilot
Member
I have come to like MilPro-7
Breakfree Powderblast - This stuff cuts through just about anything. I use it for more than just gun stuff.
Hoppes #9 - For the smell... and the fact that its great on bores.
G96 Gun Treatment - For wiping down blued steel and oiling my AR.
SureShot Copper Solvent - Because it works.
Hoppes #9 - For the smell... and the fact that its great on bores.
G96 Gun Treatment - For wiping down blued steel and oiling my AR.
SureShot Copper Solvent - Because it works.
I just recently started using the Slip 2000 products for my handguns. I see that you have a big bottle of the Carbon Killer in your photo. I like the Carbon Killer as it is non-toxic and water soluable. It smells like citrus. Best of all it seems to work well and does not require alot of effort. I also use the Slip 2000 oil in both the aresol can and squeeze bottle.
Only minor complaint with the Slip 2000 is that the Carbon Killer not only removes the old oil from your gun, but it also removes the natural oils from your skin. After the first time I used it I wondered why all the skin on my hands started to peel the next day. Now I just remember to use a little lotion on my hands afterwards.
I still keep my old cleaning stuff on hand which consists of Rem Oil, CLP Break Free, Hoppes No. 9, Bichwood Casey Gun Scrubber and Shooter's Choice lead solvent.
However, I haven't used the old stuff much since I found out about the Slip 2000.
CB
Only minor complaint with the Slip 2000 is that the Carbon Killer not only removes the old oil from your gun, but it also removes the natural oils from your skin. After the first time I used it I wondered why all the skin on my hands started to peel the next day. Now I just remember to use a little lotion on my hands afterwards.
I still keep my old cleaning stuff on hand which consists of Rem Oil, CLP Break Free, Hoppes No. 9, Bichwood Casey Gun Scrubber and Shooter's Choice lead solvent.
However, I haven't used the old stuff much since I found out about the Slip 2000.
CB
M2 Carbine
member
I don't like to clean guns but shoot one or two, usually different ones, every day or two.
I usually spray the bore, receiver and parts with WD40 and let them sit for a while. Then clean the gun and lube it with Break Free, sometimes using Corrosion X if the gun will be sitting for a while.
I usually spray the bore, receiver and parts with WD40 and let them sit for a while. Then clean the gun and lube it with Break Free, sometimes using Corrosion X if the gun will be sitting for a while.
I left a couple of things out of the pic. The Slip 2000 oil, Shooters Pal, Slick Pal and Marine Pal. Just forgot em. I have never tried CLP, hear it is excellent stuff also.
The Marine Pal beats WD-40 hands down for penetrating/loosening. Still trying the other Pal products.
The Marine Pal beats WD-40 hands down for penetrating/loosening. Still trying the other Pal products.
Average Joe
Member
Breakfree CLP , one product, very simple.
Sylvan-Forge
Member
Urine and lard .. arrgg
Actually, just Hoppes Elite, but I'm going to start experimenting with home brew stuff.
Actually, just Hoppes Elite, but I'm going to start experimenting with home brew stuff.
Big Duke Six
Member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2006
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- 29
If they made Hoppe's #9 aftershave, I'd buy it!
Deanimator
Member
Just cleaned Glocks. Shooter's Choice to remove fouling, Clenzoil to lubricate and prevent corrosion.
trainwreck100
Member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2006
- Messages
- 175
hoppes bore blaster, wd-40, liquid wrench, or any combination thereof.
ocabj
Member
Butch's Bore Shine or Montana Xtreme solvent.
BBS or MX gun oil.
Lubriplate grease.
No PTFE allowed in my bores.
BBS or MX gun oil.
Lubriplate grease.
No PTFE allowed in my bores.
GregGry
Member
I use gunslick products.
Unisaw
Member
Hoppe's #9 and Militec.
Militec for lubrication.
Sweet's 7.62 for copper fouling.
Ed's Red for everything else.
I used Hoppes #9 for years. Love the smell.
But, Ed's Red is WAY MORE affordable and does everything Hoppe's does and more.
For those interested,
Ed's Red = 1 part ATF (automatic transmission fluid, brand irrelevant)
1 part Kerosene. 1 part acetone and 1 part mineral spirits.
Merry Chrstmas and Happy New Year!
Jim
Sweet's 7.62 for copper fouling.
Ed's Red for everything else.
I used Hoppes #9 for years. Love the smell.
But, Ed's Red is WAY MORE affordable and does everything Hoppe's does and more.
For those interested,
Ed's Red = 1 part ATF (automatic transmission fluid, brand irrelevant)
1 part Kerosene. 1 part acetone and 1 part mineral spirits.
Merry Chrstmas and Happy New Year!
Jim
10-Ring
Member
Lately, I've been using this stuff I found at the 99 cent store to clean every thing off - it's petroleum based, waterless hand cleaner. Then when everything is clean, I wipe down the gun w/ a teflon impregnated wipe.
bogie
Member
Heh... In the original picture, I know both Butch and Tom Meredith... They're both good solvents.
If it doesn't cut copper, you're wasting your time with your rifle barrel.
If it doesn't cut copper, you're wasting your time with your rifle barrel.
Very true about the copper... For years I used Hoppes #9, or more recently Hoppes Elite, for everything. A while back, I picked up some Shooter's Choice copper solvent and spent hours watching patches turn blue in my rifle barrels. I guess I wasn't scrubbing with the bore brush enough to get it out with the Hoppes.
Exelent Question
One day I ran out of hoppes #9 and went out to my shop to search for some sort of solvent, the answer was Senco pneumatic tool cleaner, it works great just spray on to powder residue (on the old 454) and into the barrel, set the firearm down for a few minutes to let it soak in, scrub around forcing cone with an old tooth-brush, wipe off with a rag, scrub the bore with some soft scotchbrite through a patch loop,is faster in a cordless drill, swab out the barrel, and bright shiney revolver remains.
I have also found Super Lube dri-film lubricant to be a great solvent/tefelon spray to float the junk out of hard to clean places on my auto pistols, also good to buff into pistol chambers and coat the guide rails of various pistols that like little or no oil.
Also Remington bore bright gets the burnt on plastic and powder out of my shotguns barrels.
I also find it hard to beat Kano Aerokroil when you need a penetrating oil to prep for scrubbing rusty parts, also convenient for getting all the water off of a sopping wet rifle, just remove action and barrel from the stock and spray down the metal and wipe dry with a rag (the solvent in Kroil forces the water off of the metal parts).
Tetra synthetic grease for the locking lugs, rails of the old 1911's works well for me.
Finally I must sing the praises of Birchwood Caseys Sheath rust preventative for coating of arms for long-term storage.
Post script, I recently bougnt a small sonic cleaner, 3/4 water and 1/4 simple green for the tank solution. I put my stainless pistol barrels in the tank after a full day of shooting lead and run it a few cycles, the solution works under the lead and powder and then I just scrub it with a bronze brush (sometimes alot) and put it back in for another cycle, take it out, rinse it off thoroughly, spray the water away with solvents, and reasemble the firearm.
Use with caution , your mileage may vary.
One day I ran out of hoppes #9 and went out to my shop to search for some sort of solvent, the answer was Senco pneumatic tool cleaner, it works great just spray on to powder residue (on the old 454) and into the barrel, set the firearm down for a few minutes to let it soak in, scrub around forcing cone with an old tooth-brush, wipe off with a rag, scrub the bore with some soft scotchbrite through a patch loop,is faster in a cordless drill, swab out the barrel, and bright shiney revolver remains.
I have also found Super Lube dri-film lubricant to be a great solvent/tefelon spray to float the junk out of hard to clean places on my auto pistols, also good to buff into pistol chambers and coat the guide rails of various pistols that like little or no oil.
Also Remington bore bright gets the burnt on plastic and powder out of my shotguns barrels.
I also find it hard to beat Kano Aerokroil when you need a penetrating oil to prep for scrubbing rusty parts, also convenient for getting all the water off of a sopping wet rifle, just remove action and barrel from the stock and spray down the metal and wipe dry with a rag (the solvent in Kroil forces the water off of the metal parts).
Tetra synthetic grease for the locking lugs, rails of the old 1911's works well for me.
Finally I must sing the praises of Birchwood Caseys Sheath rust preventative for coating of arms for long-term storage.
Post script, I recently bougnt a small sonic cleaner, 3/4 water and 1/4 simple green for the tank solution. I put my stainless pistol barrels in the tank after a full day of shooting lead and run it a few cycles, the solution works under the lead and powder and then I just scrub it with a bronze brush (sometimes alot) and put it back in for another cycle, take it out, rinse it off thoroughly, spray the water away with solvents, and reasemble the firearm.
Use with caution , your mileage may vary.
Last edited:
blackedoutharley
Member
Am I the only one????
Brake Cleaner and Lucas synthetic gun oil.
Occasionally a silicone cloth as a final wipe...
Brake Cleaner and Lucas synthetic gun oil.
Occasionally a silicone cloth as a final wipe...
gudel
Member
I use BreakFree CLP and Mpro7.
It's non toxic, and the military uses it, so it's good enough for me.
It's non toxic, and the military uses it, so it's good enough for me.
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